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Old 11-22-2015, 07:44 PM   #2506
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Originally Posted by gawith0413 View Post
Is there an option to run a closed ball cup, compared to the stock open ball cups?
the capture ball studs are bigger than the ball cups. but in imo the capture ball is the way to go i convert all my buggies even vintage buggies to capture ball
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:51 PM   #2507
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the capture ball studs are bigger than the ball cups. but in imo the capture ball is the way to go i convert all my buggies even vintage buggies to capture ball
It's just with the stock ones, they make the suspension really stiff. I'm converting this truck into a SCMod for dirt oval, so setup is everything.
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:05 PM   #2508
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Is there a real difference in steering if you take the spacers off of the ball studs at the bell crank?
Yes, it changes the ackerman significantly & thus, the steering feel.
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Old 11-22-2015, 08:50 PM   #2509
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So heres the deal. Had one T5m that worked great, decided I wanted to give the SC5M a shot, s I sold the T5M, which I immediately replaced cause I missed my truck. Here is the problem, same exact setup, same exact tires, same exact everything that was on the old truck, and this new one drives like crap. Wont track straight during breaking, hooks around turns, is not smooth anywhere on the track. Ballcups are reasonably free (better then the old truck), I am at a total loss, the SC5M which has basically the exact same setup, (expect for grey front springs (and front/rear pistons) in so in the pocket, I threw a 6.5 in it, and it handled it like a champ. The T5M is a squirrel monster with a 13.5. I'm baffled. My build skills are good, diff is fine, bearings have been replaced with ceramics and is free as can be. At a total loss.
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Old 11-23-2015, 04:08 PM   #2510
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Getting ready to install the alum 25* bulkhead and do the "Cavalieri mod" to the front bumper and "delete" the front hinge pin.....
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Old 11-23-2015, 04:36 PM   #2511
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Can't speak on the fox shocks but the x rings are a must IMO
Is there a noticeable difference in leakage, I hate the stock associated orings
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:07 PM   #2512
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Getting ready to install the alum 25* bulkhead and do the "Cavalieri mod" to the front bumper and "delete" the front hinge pin.....
Please explain what holds the arms on without hinge pins?
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:10 PM   #2513
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Please explain what holds the arms on without hinge pins?
grub screws
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:11 PM   #2514
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Please explain what holds the arms on without hinge pins?
LOL I meant hinge pin brace!! The 4 pinch bolts in the bulkhead hold the pins in place. I trimmed them flush with the front of the a arms. I didn't do near as good of a job bending my plastic bumper up though. I'll get a new bumper and use a heat gun this weekend, then I'll post pics
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:16 PM   #2515
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I just recently added a t5m to my race aresenal and have a question on tires and inserts. Do the inserts on these stadium truck tires typically wear out before the tires do? I'm running on clay with Chainlinks in the clay compound with dirt tech inserts.

FWIW I wear out the tires on my buggy before the inserts every time.
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:41 PM   #2516
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is there any disadvantages to cutting the cradle?
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:53 PM   #2517
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I just recently added a t5m to my race aresenal and have a question on tires and inserts. Do the inserts on these stadium truck tires typically wear out before the tires do? I'm running on clay with Chainlinks in the clay compound with dirt tech inserts.

FWIW I wear out the tires on my buggy before the inserts every time.
I like the dirt tech inserts after them being broken in. After wearing a set of tires I save the foams and put them in my new tires. Granted that is with my buggy. I have a set of Primes on my T5M and they are getting towards the end of their life and I cant wait to get the foams out and mount them up in some new Primes.
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:06 AM   #2518
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So heres the deal. Had one T5m that worked great, decided I wanted to give the SC5M a shot, s I sold the T5M, which I immediately replaced cause I missed my truck. Here is the problem, same exact setup, same exact tires, same exact everything that was on the old truck, and this new one drives like crap. Wont track straight during breaking, hooks around turns, is not smooth anywhere on the track. Ballcups are reasonably free (better then the old truck), I am at a total loss, the SC5M which has basically the exact same setup, (expect for grey front springs (and front/rear pistons) in so in the pocket, I threw a 6.5 in it, and it handled it like a champ. The T5M is a squirrel monster with a 13.5. I'm baffled. My build skills are good, diff is fine, bearings have been replaced with ceramics and is free as can be. At a total loss.
I thought about this and off the top of my head there are 2 things that I could think of. I know you said "same tires" but try to swap them or try another set....and check the diff. If its all the same I cant see anything else that would cause it to feel funky.
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:19 AM   #2519
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So I purchased the ae clamping rear hex's, what false advertising that description is, I used pliers and squeezed them together and then did the screw up until there was no gap, with the hex not even mounted to the car, and it just slips on and off, how can ae sell us this junk that clearly doesn't do the job it's meant to, what's the solution do I need to stick with the plastic ones?
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:12 AM   #2520
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So I purchased the ae clamping rear hex's, what false advertising that description is, I used pliers and squeezed them together and then did the screw up until there was no gap, with the hex not even mounted to the car, and it just slips on and off, how can ae sell us this junk that clearly doesn't do the job it's meant to, what's the solution do I need to stick with the plastic ones?
Ease your storm there guy. I installed the clamping hexes on my T5M and they are great. I did not have any problems with the screws breaking or anything sliding off. Because the screw is tiny on these hexes, you need to tighten them down slowly and gently. When they feel tight, they are tight, no need to bear down on them because that is when guys break the screws and write on here that they are crap. In your case, squeezing them together defeats the purpose of the clamping hex. You have already squeezed them down so there is no clamping force to hold the hex onto the axle. How can the hex clamp to the axle surface if you already smooshed it down? By clamping them down with pliers, you most likely deformed the inside mating surface of the hex. Aluminum is soft and does not take much to deform it. I would bet the hole that the axle slides through is oblonged and hence why it is not clamping. I call user error in this case like most cases I have heard with people having problems with the aluminum clamping hexes.
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