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Old 11-19-2015, 07:33 PM   #2491
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I was thinking of going with a 9.5 motor in my T5M. You think that is to much motor for a medium size indoor clay track?
I run an 8.5 at Critters. 36x80. My SC5M will be getting an 8.0 soon.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:37 PM   #2492
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one is an over priced Alum. machined cover, the other is a molded plastic case. The alum. one might be a little more accurate and is IMO mostly for bling. unless your a top notch pro and are worried about a tenth or thousandth of a second I don't believe the average club racer will tell or see a difference. and Like I said this is just my opinion. Oh yea and I forgot about the extra 100$
Biggest thing I noticed was about a 20 degree drop in motor temp. I would love to buy one for each of my 5M cars, but that's a lot of money, even getting them at cost.

It was definitely the bling that made me buy it.
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:31 PM   #2493
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I was thinking of going with a 9.5 motor in my T5M. You think that is to much motor for a medium size indoor clay track?
I'm running a 13.5 with boost and I feel like the truck is a rocket compared to my 17.5 buggy.
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:37 AM   #2494
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Going back to the MIP tranny. I have a few and for my purposes I can't live without them. We run outdoors and in the summer the track itself can hit 125-130 degrees. They really do lower the motor temps by acting like a heatsynch. I cannot even count how many of my competitors literally smoked their motors over the summer while I never saw over 165 degrees in any of my cars. The extra 8 grams right over the rear wheels is a benefit too. Its a great mod if you have the money but its no means a game changer. If your an engineer or a total OCD type the precision of the tranny might also appeal to a person. I wouldn't call it bling but its not a necessity either.
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Old 11-20-2015, 09:22 AM   #2495
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Going back to the MIP tranny. I have a few and for my purposes I can't live without them. We run outdoors and in the summer the track itself can hit 125-130 degrees. They really do lower the motor temps by acting like a heatsynch. I cannot even count how many of my competitors literally smoked their motors over the summer while I never saw over 165 degrees in any of my cars. The extra 8 grams right over the rear wheels is a benefit too. Its a great mod if you have the money but its no means a game changer. If your an engineer or a total OCD type the precision of the tranny might also appeal to a person. I wouldn't call it bling but its not a necessity either.
I think its use as a heat sink, is about all it is good for. We run indoor with temps of 75 deg. So no real need for the MIP. But we do use a fan most of the time anyway. Just to keep temps under 130
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Old 11-21-2015, 07:05 PM   #2496
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HIT UP THE LOCAL HOBBY SHOP YOU WILL NEED THE TRANS CASE FOR 3 GEAR BUGGY AND A MOTOR PLATE
Can skip the motor plate and just counter sink the other side of the 4 gear plate. If you already have the bit or can borrow one, it's free. I got one on sale for a dollar at harbor freight. I converted my t5m, sc5m and a friends t5m.
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:44 AM   #2497
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i have a question i just wondering what the +4mm arm mount does? will this give u more toe in? just curious if this is something worth getting and what it will improve? thanks alot

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Old 11-22-2015, 11:47 AM   #2498
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Is there a real difference in steering if you take the spacers off of the ball studs at the bell crank?
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:34 PM   #2499
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Is that all I would need to convert to 3 gear - a transmission case and motor plate?
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:52 PM   #2500
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Is that all I would need to convert to 3 gear - a transmission case and motor plate?
yes
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:41 PM   #2501
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You'll also need the gear cover for the 3 gear trans.
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:45 PM   #2502
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Originally Posted by afm223 View Post
I'm running a 13.5 with boost and I feel like the truck is a rocket compared to my 17.5 buggy.
Same with me. I have a Novak Vulcan 13.5 and Hobbywing Xerun with boost and I had to turn the throttle down in my radio! It keeps up with the trucks with 7.5's and 8.5's without a problem.
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:52 PM   #2503
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What all parts do I need to convert to the fox shocks and the good shafts? Do I need different Pistons as well? Is anyone using the x ring o rings with good luck(less leakage)
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:17 PM   #2504
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Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
What all parts do I need to convert to the fox shocks and the good shafts? Do I need different Pistons as well? Is anyone using the x ring o rings with good luck(less leakage)
Can't speak on the fox shocks but the x rings are a must IMO
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:33 PM   #2505
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Is there an option to run a closed ball cup, compared to the stock open ball cups?
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