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Old 07-13-2015, 07:57 PM   #1966
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Yeah I seen the rear hinge pins are wider than the fronts. But the fronts in my kit are just a little smaller in diameter than the rears.
The front hinge pins are 3mm diameter and shorter in length the rears are 3.5mm diameter and longer in length. The front pins will not go through the arm at all?

As for the hinge pin in the castor block. Only one of them is shorter?

Of course pics make all of this 1000 times easier to diagnose.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:05 PM   #1967
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Yeah one of the caster block hinge pins is about a 1/4 inch shorter than the other. So I tried building it anyways and if I hold the assembled caster block together it simply falls out. Yeah I seen the rears are wider. And they go into the rear arms perfectly. But the front ones, are just to wide. They won't even go into the front 25 degree block. At first I was just gonna drill out the arms to fit the pins, but don't wanna drill out the 25 degree block and arms.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:21 PM   #1968
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Yeah one of the caster block hinge pins is about a 1/4 inch shorter than the other. So I tried building it anyways and if I hold the assembled caster block together it simply falls out. Yeah I seen the rears are wider. And they go into the rear arms perfectly. But the front ones, are just to wide. They won't even go into the front 25 degree block. At first I was just gonna drill out the arms to fit the pins, but don't wanna drill out the 25 degree block and arms.
Ok to clarify, you're in need of 2 front inner hinge pins, 1 outer front hinge pin and a 10mm ball stud?
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Old 07-14-2015, 07:24 PM   #1969
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The ballstud isn't that big of a deal. I just used a pair of needle nose to secure it. So tonight I used a hinge pin off of my old 44.2 for the caster block, it doesn't fit great but it will do the job. Just a small amount of play. For the hinge pin on the arm I actually used a older hudy hex drive I had laying around. Just measured thr good pin and cut the old hex driver to correct length lol. Not gonna keep it in there. But at least it will work till I go back to the track to buy the correct ones. I have assembled all the way to getting the tranny in and so far no more issues
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:37 PM   #1970
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
The ballstud isn't that big of a deal. I just used a pair of needle nose to secure it. So tonight I used a hinge pin off of my old 44.2 for the caster block, it doesn't fit great but it will do the job. Just a small amount of play. For the hinge pin on the arm I actually used a older hudy hex drive I had laying around. Just measured thr good pin and cut the old hex driver to correct length lol. Not gonna keep it in there. But at least it will work till I go back to the track to buy the correct ones. I have assembled all the way to getting the tranny in and so far no more issues
Ok cool! Glad to see you engineered a fix for yourself. I know it's sucks that you had to but if you needed the parts I can send you some.
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Old 07-16-2015, 10:38 AM   #1971
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Has anyone tried to converted a B5M to A T5M ? I am guessing it will take shock towers shocks cvs turnbuckels body mount. I was thinking about getting a Plan B chassis and giving it a try.What do you think,
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:19 AM   #1972
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Has anyone tried to converted a B5M to A T5M ? I am guessing it will take shock towers shocks cvs turnbuckels body mount. I was thinking about getting a Plan B chassis and giving it a try.What do you think,
It's gonna be quite costly. Besides the chassis you're getting you'll also need:

Turnbuckles
Fr/rr shocks
Body mounts
Front axles/hexes
Rear hexes
Fr/rr arms
Fr/rr towers
Body
Chassis cradle
Cva bones, you'll need the HD axles if you don't have them already

Add all that up... You could sell the B5 cheap and you'd end up with a brand new truck for much less money.
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:44 AM   #1973
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This is what I came up with
F and R arms
F and R shock towers
FT C mount
Schelle arm mount
Schelle ball stud mount
Body mount
CVAs HD
F and rear shock bodys and shafts
Front axels
3 gear cases and cover alredy have motor plate
MIP alum all in one top shaft
Wheels 4
Jconcept ti turnbuckels
Finisher body
all that $207.00
Plan B carbon fiber chassis $80.00
Total $287.00
If i bought a new truck and added all the goodies it came too $388.50 so about I will save abut $100 i could add the fox shocks and shafts for $50 more but not sure if its worth it or not.

Last edited by Scottysspeedsho; 07-16-2015 at 11:48 AM. Reason: add
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:00 PM   #1974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottysspeedsho View Post
This is what I came up with
F and R arms
F and R shock towers
FT C mount
Schelle arm mount
Schelle ball stud mount
Body mount
CVAs HD
F and rear shock bodys and shafts
Front axels
3 gear cases and cover alredy have motor plate
MIP alum all in one top shaft
Wheels 4
Jconcept ti turnbuckels
Finisher body
all that $207.00
Plan B carbon fiber chassis $80.00
Total $287.00
If i bought a new truck and added all the goodies it came too $388.50 so about I will save abut $100 i could add the fox shocks and shafts for $50 more but not sure if its worth it or not.


Just sell the b5 and get all new!
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:09 PM   #1975
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I think I will keep it make it my mod car and buy a new T5.You cant have too many cars after all.lol
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Old 07-18-2015, 12:14 AM   #1976
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off topic. Besides Associated, are there other companies that offers the rear aluminum hex? I've bought two pairs of the Associated ones and both pairs seem to either break the screw "1/8th past hand tight", or they slip out from the pin every time I remove the wheel. Am I doing something wrong here? I don't care about the added weight from plastic to aluminum (I keep rounding the plastic ones). Thanks in advance
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:28 PM   #1977
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I have a serious question for all you guys that have both a T5M and a B5M or two. If so, do you set them up the same? I'm finding that the more I make my T5M like my buggies, the better it feels. Am I alone?
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:53 PM   #1978
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I have a serious question for all you guys that have both a T5M and a B5M or two. If so, do you set them up the same? I'm finding that the more I make my T5M like my buggies, the better it feels. Am I alone?
To a point yes. Typically the trucks like a slightly different shock package and springs. Camber links are usually very close as well.
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:55 PM   #1979
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Question, when running the alumium rear hubs, what ballstud am I supposed to use? The kit one seems to long. Also, what hole and how many washers is the suggested starting point.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:06 PM   #1980
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http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...umRearHubs.pdf
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