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Old 06-15-2015, 03:14 PM   #1906
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Get rid of the Chain Links. I have never had good luck with AKA tires on clay. I love them on my 8th scale buggy and truggy, but every one I have tried on clay has been horrible.
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:29 PM   #1907
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maybe try to lengthen the rear camber links to mellow out the rear. I somewhat had the same problem. I lengthened the rear camber links, went with 35 front and 30 rear oil, reduced D/R and went 1 degree front and rear. Also I'm running 27 height front and rear. hope this helps.
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:44 PM   #1908
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Originally Posted by jsteve5050 View Post
My truck was doing the same thing as well. I found a couple of things wrong, first the camber links were still very stiff even after squeezing them with the pliers and I had mis-built build one of the steering spindles (one side had 2 trailing axle and the other four). After this the truck was a lot better, just a thought on some things to check.
I had the same problem, but was easily fixed by turning down the steering epa. I was at 120 turned down to 100 problem solved
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:36 PM   #1909
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Originally Posted by dbowen View Post
I am having a terrible time with my T5M so far. At first I thought I had a bad kit but my buddy just built and ran his and it was doing the same thing. Basically what happens is as if you turn into a corner about midway through the corner (and not every time either) it will just loop out and spin all the way around. The truck has so much mid corner steering its crazy and I have tried everything to get rid of it. Stiffer front spring. All kinds of things to the rear to gain more rear traction to take steering away. 30* kick up with 0* inserts. The only thing that stopped it was Clay fronts with SS rears. I am totally lost.

Setup is as follows:

Stock setup in the front other than 3 limiters vs 2 and 1.5mm on the front tower.

Rear is stock other than 1 limiter 30 wt and kyosho gold springs, 3.5*s of toe with the 20 gram brass C block, arms spaced forward, middle camber link.

Ride height is 30/29 even tried 29/29

Tires are SS chainlinks all around.

Idk if this is the right place to ask but I am absolutely stumped and I think I am pretty good at setup.

Any help is appreciated.
First make sure you don't have too much brake dialed in and loading up the front suspension and making the rear light.

Was having a similar issue. I went short wheelbase, in on the rear tower top.

If still having an issue after that you can stiffen the frt spring and oil so less weight transfers to the front.

Are you running shorty pack or saddle/square pack?
Can also run a smaller spur gear to move the motor back to add more wieght over the rear.

Adding ackerman will also reduce your steering as well.
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:44 PM   #1910
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A couple things you can try.

Double check your running 4mm trailing instead of 2 (big difference!)
Raise front axle
Move in front shocks


Make sure diff is set correctly, and you have the proper ride height. 28/28 is usually a good starting point.
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:27 AM   #1911
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Need a little help. On my T5M I'm running a hobbywing just stock esc and reedy mach 2 13.5 with 26/78 gears. The motor runs extremely hot though. I don't know exactly how hot but too hot to touch. Some people have been telling me that reedys run hot like that. My motor heats up with 5 laps to burning hot. Any help is much appreciated.
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:21 AM   #1912
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Originally Posted by Bajaking9 View Post
Need a little help. On my T5M I'm running a hobbywing just stock esc and reedy mach 2 13.5 with 26/78 gears. The motor runs extremely hot though. I don't know exactly how hot but too hot to touch. Some people have been telling me that reedys run hot like that. My motor heats up with 5 laps to burning hot. Any help is much appreciated.
Would probably need more info but to start there are a few things you could check. 1) where's the motor timing? 2) Is anything binding in the drivetrain? 3) hows the gear mesh? 4) gear a tooth up/down and see what happens. 5) This should be #1.....get a temp gun. Nobody could actually tell you a thing without knowing the actual temp. What is burning hot? 150-160 is burning hot but its acceptable. 6) what is the temp of the esc? If the esc is extremely hot or cold it could indicate the wrong gearing.....its endless. You need a temp gun.
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:35 AM   #1913
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Thank you for the tips/help. I'll get a temp gun. Esc is not hot. Tried different gearing and cleaned all gears. Everything is brand new. My 17.5 motor on my buggy was 152 degrees the other day so I know what that felt like. The reedy13.5 was much hotter feeling. But like you said I need to get a temp gun. Thanks again.
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:57 AM   #1914
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
A couple things you can try.

Double check your running 4mm trailing instead of 2 (big difference!)
Raise front axle
Move in front shocks


Make sure diff is set correctly, and you have the proper ride height. 28/28 is usually a good starting point.
Raising the front axle will give me more steering so I am going to assume you meant lower the front axle and yes my buddy did this and it deff helped the truck. I have to get the spacers to do it and trust me everything on my kit is built correctly I am extremely meticulous when it comes to building kits.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:29 PM   #1915
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Originally Posted by dbowen View Post
Raising the front axle will give me more steering so I am going to assume you meant lower the front axle and yes my buddy did this and it deff helped the truck. I have to get the spacers to do it and trust me everything on my kit is built correctly I am extremely meticulous when it comes to building kits.
Actually it doesn't give you more or less steering. Raising the axle goves you more exit steering. Loweirng it gives more intial steering. Regardless you don't need to search for more steering. You are looking to have less weight transfer to the front and making the rear light and loose.
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:00 PM   #1916
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Get rid of the Chain Links. I have never had good luck with AKA tires on clay. I love them on my 8th scale buggy and truggy, but every one I have tried on clay has been horrible.
The ultra soft compound chain links on damp clay are INCREDIBLE!
Lightly doped they are lights out!
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:09 PM   #1917
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The ultra soft compound chain links on damp clay are INCREDIBLE!
Lightly doped they are lights out!
Used to think the same..... until the electrons for ST came out... they are game over. Just wish they would make some m3 and x3 for outdoors
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:27 PM   #1918
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Originally Posted by robbie_gtc View Post
Used to think the same..... until the electrons for ST came out... they are game over. Just wish they would make some m3 and x3 for outdoors
I can only imagine! I need to get me some of those!
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:36 AM   #1919
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Yes I run mine like this. If you're running indoor with good grip, not needed. I've run on a couple outdoor tracks recently and run my arms forward. I wouldn't change it back! My outdoor tracks are lower grip, running JC flip outs at one and Goosebumps at the other... Old school outdoor. Trucks been great!!
Hey Adam,

Any way you could post a setup. Been runnin my t4 on an outdoor track and have been slowly puttin my t5 together. I have been runnin flipouts or double dees on the buggy. I figured the kit setup would be good, but I didn't know if there was any minor changes to make for a bit looser/loamy track. Thanks

Travis
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:59 PM   #1920
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Hey Adam,

Any way you could post a setup. Been runnin my t4 on an outdoor track and have been slowly puttin my t5 together. I have been runnin flipouts or double dees on the buggy. I figured the kit setup would be good, but I didn't know if there was any minor changes to make for a bit looser/loamy track. Thanks

Travis
This is what I've been running. It's not quite perfect but it's been great!! I think the oil is 2.5 heavy but I might try a different piston combo when I have time.

Front:
1.5 tapered 35oil 26.5 droop blue spring.
Middle tower out on arm
2mm under camber link
Rear:
1.6 tapered 30oil 36.5 droop white spring
Inside tower middle on arm
3mm under inside ballstud
Plastic hubs with .5 toe insert
2 hole link in the outside hole
Hubs middle/arms forward

Brass C and D mounts 3/1 insert
Plastic behind servo dremeled out
Plastic under the waterfall dremeled out
3pad vts slipper (I also highly recommend 2 pad slipper
With vented plates and hi torq AE pads with V2 spring

Reedy 5200 square lipo all the way back
Reedy 6.5 17/84
14awg wire on esc

Anything I didn't mention is kit setting.
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