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Old 05-29-2015, 08:29 AM   #1816
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look at the diff building instructions closer.....you have the tnut on the wrong side...
thank you
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:14 AM   #1817
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Talked to a few friends and that 550 motor will strip Trans gears and brake dog bones everytime I pull the throttle. Any suggestions on a good 17.5 setup?

Any of them. Just depends how much money you want to speed. As far as motors... Reedy, Trinity, Schuur Speed, are all great motors.
For speed controls... Hobby wing just stock, Orion stock spec, LRP, the new Reedy black box.
Some of these can get pricey. If you are on a small budget take a look at the Hobby King Turnigy Trackstar 120amp speed control. Great bang for the buck. Also their motors are good too.
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:23 AM   #1818
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Talked to a few friends and that 550 motor will strip Trans gears and brake dog bones everytime I pull the throttle. Any suggestions on a good 17.5 setup?
The Velineon 3500 is classified as a 540 motor. It would work just fine in the T5M, I have had one in an SC10 and SC10B for several years and the transmission and dogbones held up fine, of course set the slipper accordingly. But it would make more sense to go with something that is legal in the stock class.

We don't run 17.5 in the Stadium Truck class though, it is 13.5 Super Stock Stadium truck, so you should see what motor they run. For me the perfect combo is the Reedy 13.5t Mach2 with a Viper VTX Black Edition ESC.

My son has the Reedy 17.5 Mach 2 with the Viper VTX Black edition in his B5M. I will also say that my son did run the Hobbywing V2.1 120A esc with the same Reedy motor and was usually in the B Main. But since I changed the ESC to the Viper, he is usually mid pack in the A-Main now. I did not change gearing it is just faster out of the box.

Having a good motor is nice but you need a good ESC to be able to use it to its potential.
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:09 PM   #1819
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Thank you everyone. I just need to stop going to my LHS. It just gets me in trouble. I went with Reedy my track dose not run a stock class it's open with two grupes rookie and everyone else so I got a 8.5 reedy and a Blackbox esc wish me luck.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:47 AM   #1820
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I was at my LHS and got a good tip for sticky ball cups. Just use a little bit of fine grit sandpaper like emry paper and put the ball studs in a cordless dill and run it for a few seconds to take some of the chrome off. Now they are like butter. Make sure you use a glove can get a little hot.
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:48 AM   #1821
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I was at my LHS and got a good tip for sticky ball cups. Just use a little bit of fine grit sandpaper like emry paper and put the ball studs in a cordless dill and run it for a few seconds to take some of the chrome off. Now they are like butter. Make sure you use a glove can get a little hot.
So while this works, I would tell you to instead spin the ball stud inside of the ball cup next time. Look at the first page of the B5M thread for information.
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:29 AM   #1822
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So while this works, I would tell you to instead spin the ball stud inside of the ball cup next time. Look at the first page of the B5M thread for information.
I never noticed that in the B5M thread. So you just carefully put the/a ballstud into a drill and spin it for a little while in a/the ball cup? Would you lube it or do it dry? That actually seems like a practical way to do it so long as you don't over do it and/or get it too hot.
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:48 AM   #1823
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I never noticed that in the B5M thread. So you just carefully put the/a ballstud into a drill and spin it for a little while in a/the ball cup? Would you lube it or do it dry? That actually seems like a practical way to do it so long as you don't over do it and/or get it too hot.
I did it a few times with toothpaste as a compound.

Then I did it dry - spin for 30 seconds on medium speed, then SLIGHTLY pinch the ball cup. This warms the ball cup itself, and allows it to form to the ball stud.

The dry method has held up much better, and since I'm using titanium studs, I don't want to mess with trying to wear them out.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:09 PM   #1824
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My son is in the process of building a T5M. He has assembled the CVD's per the directions in the manual. As he added camber links it appears that the CVD's are dangerously short for the out drives. Could the out drives be incorrect or the CVD's too short? This build is using the new +4 Aluminum C Arm. The CVD's are labeled with "81mm" on each one. We would appreciate any and all feedback on this.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:18 PM   #1825
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My son is in the process of building a T5M. He has assembled the CVD's per the directions in the manual. As he added camber links it appears that the CVD's are dangerously short for the out drives. Could the out drives be incorrect or the CVD's too short? This build is using the new +4 Aluminum C Arm. The CVD's are labeled with "81mm" on each one. We would appreciate any and all feedback on this.
There's your problem right there!
I used the stock units and it went together like a dream.
Not sure but you may need longer axles.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:25 PM   #1826
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Originally Posted by linhof4 View Post
My son is in the process of building a T5M. He has assembled the CVD's per the directions in the manual. As he added camber links it appears that the CVD's are dangerously short for the out drives. Could the out drives be incorrect or the CVD's too short? This build is using the new +4 Aluminum C Arm. The CVD's are labeled with "81mm" on each one. We would appreciate any and all feedback on this.
In order to use the +4 c mount you also must have the alum or brass D mount with the inserts. The arrows in the inserts must face out as well. You will also need the alum 7mm clamping hexes to finish this as the stock 8.5mm hexes are too wide when using that +4 block.
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:39 PM   #1827
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Originally Posted by traxxaskiller82 View Post
I was at my LHS and got a good tip for sticky ball cups. Just use a little bit of fine grit sandpaper like emry paper and put the ball studs in a cordless dill and run it for a few seconds to take some of the chrome off. Now they are like butter. Make sure you use a glove can get a little hot.
put the stickey ballcup on the ballstud and on the truck. Take pliers and pinch the ball cup with the pliers. You will see the ballcup get a little oblong. Your done.... No drills no polishing no sandpaper
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:26 PM   #1828
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put the stickey ballcup on the ballstud and on the truck. Take pliers and pinch the ball cup with the pliers. You will see the ballcup get a little oblong. Your done.... No drills no polishing no sandpaper
Rinse and repeat as needed. Also, if you have been racing a while and they start to stick, pop the cups of and clean them out with a q-tip. gunk builds up s
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:30 PM   #1829
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So I decided to give Mod buggy a go, since my daughters car is already setup for 17.5. I removed my pucks and built a new AE steel diff. I left the rest of my setup alone and just verified ride height. Holy push monster. The car will barely turn with the steel diff and bones, lol. Keep that in mind when tuning your car. 30 less grams over the rear axles changes the feel A LOT. Now, I get to figure out how to make my car steer again...fun times.
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:45 PM   #1830
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Here is my T5m.

Paint is by www.Paintmonsterairbrushing.com
3 gear tranny
Mip pucks
Schuur Speed V3 Select motor





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