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Old 04-25-2015, 04:21 PM   #1486
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Got my Pulse V2 and Vulcan 17.5 installed. Just need the rims/radio/battery/charger, and I'll be rolling (finally.) The start up costs for this hobby are easy to get carried away with!
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:43 PM   #1487
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so im running on an indoor clay track with plenty of grip and im having trouble getting enough steering, especially on throttle. I first ran the box stock set up and the truck had two much steering but i decided to run a 3 gear tranny and the truck became tight. I then switched set up to the one for 3 gear on associateds site. Im running chainlinks front and rear and dont have any other tires to try. Does anyone have any ideas to try for more steering?
Is it pushing or just not rotating
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:06 PM   #1488
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More T5M corn shots
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Old 04-25-2015, 10:27 PM   #1489
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Is it pushing or just not rotating
What does that mean?

I needed more steering through the middle and corner exit as I was accelerating. What worked for me was stiffer rear springs and the zero degree front caster inserts.
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:45 PM   #1490
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Is it pushing or just not rotating
Doesn't rotate unless I slam the brakes on entry and pushes badly on throttle like in the sweepers can't really carry any speed and we run 13.5 so stop and go in the corners isn't very fast
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Old 04-26-2015, 04:08 AM   #1491
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Default Ball Diff when running 7.5 mod

Since having to tighten the diff to the max when running mod (so as to not bark the diff) and run a tight slipper (due to the weight of the truck), I am wondering if the benefits (tuning and weight) of a ball diff vs gear diff are being lost. Also rebuild requirements go way up with a 7.5 vs 17.5. Comments please.
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Old 04-26-2015, 07:10 AM   #1492
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More T5M corn shots
Man that track looks "sticky"... I'm not sure if it's the perspective of the picture, but it looks like the stock body sets 3/4" lower in the hood & cab area (assuming the ride heights are similar). Hmmmmm
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Old 04-26-2015, 07:28 AM   #1493
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Originally Posted by Micah123 View Post
Since having to tighten the diff to the max when running mod (so as to not bark the diff) and run a tight slipper (due to the weight of the truck), I am wondering if the benefits (tuning and weight) of a ball diff vs gear diff are being lost. Also rebuild requirements go way up with a 7.5 vs 17.5. Comments please.
You should never have to run the diff all the way tight to the max for mod, you're not going through a break in process. Also, slipper should be set to raise front wheels 1/2" to full inch when holding both rear wheels and giving the throttle a blip.
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Old 04-26-2015, 07:40 AM   #1494
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Actually, I take my time breaking in ball diffs. Silky smooth before getting installed in tranny. After install, I continue the break in process once the tires are on the truck. Then take a few laps with loose slipper then tighten accordingly. With a 7.5 motor, you need to run the slipper tight or you will bark it because of the power. The only way around a tight ball diff is a loose slipper which defeats the purpose of a 7.5 motor.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:14 AM   #1495
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Actually, I take my time breaking in ball diffs. Silky smooth before getting installed in tranny. After install, I continue the break in process once the tires are on the truck. Then take a few laps with loose slipper then tighten accordingly. With a 7.5 motor, you need to run the slipper tight or you will bark it because of the power. The only way around a tight ball diff is a loose slipper which defeats the purpose of a 7.5 motor.
You're doing something wrong. I ran a 6.5 with a ball diff in my SC10, and was able to have a butter smooth diff, and run the slipper tight enough to lift the front wheels 2 inches when holding the rear wheels. If your diff is properly broken in it will be smooth and tight enough to not slip. You need the right parts in the diff too. Flattened rings, carbide main balls, ceramic thrust balls and flattened thrust washers. My break in process takes 20 minutes of running in the diff before the car moves one inch. The result is a diff that when tight, is still unbelievably smooth.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:16 AM   #1496
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That's the stock wing.
yeah but if you don't have one at all is there anywhere to buy just the wing.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:21 AM   #1497
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what you never get around on a gear diff is the "locking"

they are always harder to drive on dirt, even in a strait line they can start locking and you spin out.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:24 AM   #1498
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what you never get around on a gear diff is the "locking"

they are always harder to drive on dirt, even in a strait line they can start locking and you spin out.
thanks for the info. thought lighter gear diff oil would eliminate locking effect.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:26 AM   #1499
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Our new track layout is pretty awesome but if I continue to run my truck with a square pack I'm going to have to move up to at least a 10.5 [from the current 13.5]. The damn truck is so heavy that I need to be wide open and squared up to hit our big tripple. It would be easier if I could just mosey up to it at normal pace and squeeze the trigger a little harder to clear it. Since there's a small double and a turn right after, the high speed approach is difficult because it makes me overshoot the double and barely make the turn. I hate having to motor up but a guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do.
Why don't you try a shorty pack. I'm running a shorty with 13.5 and its freaking great.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:29 AM   #1500
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
You're doing something wrong. I ran a 6.5 with a ball diff in my SC10, and was able to have a butter smooth diff, and run the slipper tight enough to lift the front wheels 2 inches when holding the rear wheels. If your diff is properly broken in it will be smooth and tight enough to not slip. You need the right parts in the diff too. Flattened rings, carbide main balls, ceramic thrust balls and flattened thrust washers. My break in process takes 20 minutes of running in the diff before the car moves one inch. The result is a diff that when tight, is still unbelievably smooth.
thanks for the info. assembled mucho ball diffs so comfortable that procedure and understanding is good to go. I use carbide or ceramic balls and same for thrust. got away from sanding after talking to one of the ae drivers. will try sanding before I assemble today and check results. thanks again.
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