2wd buggy suggestions/advice
05-06-2014, 07:47 PM
#46
Tech Adept
If you have to pass up the B5 I'm sure you could find a used 22 2.0 in your price range.
05-06-2014, 08:04 PM
#47
No offense meant for the TeamC owners but my co racers at our local club always break something on his TeamC buggy. I ran a Cactus and finishing all the qualis and mains in top 5 position with out breaking something. (I replaced the rear axle to Durango unit) I got mine from this store, very good value for money. Im also using the included esc/ motor combo for racing.
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-cactus...Path=1100_1247
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-cactus...Path=1100_1247
05-06-2014, 08:33 PM
#50
I can give you some tips if you are set on the TC02:
-the top plate, the one that connect the bulkhead and the steering system to the chassis needs reinforcement around the rear screws, it's too thin on that place and I broke one easily.
-the bottom plate breaks on the kickup.
-maybe the ball diff was updated, if not then it would need some work and Kyosho parts, the slipper needed a spring change.
-the rear inner ballstuds should be vertical and could be better located.
-you can't tune anti squat and inboard rear toe.
-you can't use tall(~26mm) lipos.
-front arms break usually at the inner hinge pin.
-wear is fair, steering rack, CVD's and arms are the most critical parts.
Drives well but *I* really think it could be even better on that regard.
-the top plate, the one that connect the bulkhead and the steering system to the chassis needs reinforcement around the rear screws, it's too thin on that place and I broke one easily.
-the bottom plate breaks on the kickup.
-maybe the ball diff was updated, if not then it would need some work and Kyosho parts, the slipper needed a spring change.
-the rear inner ballstuds should be vertical and could be better located.
-you can't tune anti squat and inboard rear toe.
-you can't use tall(~26mm) lipos.
-front arms break usually at the inner hinge pin.
-wear is fair, steering rack, CVD's and arms are the most critical parts.
Drives well but *I* really think it could be even better on that regard.
Lower plates do break at the kick up, Team C has released an upgraded version that drastically reduces this. even if you do break there, It a $7 part. On a B4, you're replacing the entire chassis plate.
Ball diff could be better but for now, A BFast diff upgrade is probably the best one you could put in it. I have one in mine and love it. if you don't want to deal with all the maintenance, grab the gear diff.
the inner ball studs are a bit of a pain but 6 screw moves everything out of the way to get at them. I've moved mine once the entire time i've owned my buggy so that's not a big deal to me.
all my lipos are 25mm. unless you're running 3S, it's not something to worry about.
Everything breaks if you hit something hard enough and everything wears if you use it enough.
05-06-2014, 08:44 PM
#52
I've never broken a top plate there. I've had the mounts for the shock tower break but I landed upside down on my shock tower.
Lower plates do break at the kick up, Team C has released an upgraded version that drastically reduces this. even if you do break there, It a $7 part. On a B4, you're replacing the entire chassis plate.
Ball diff could be better but for now, A BFast diff upgrade is probably the best one you could put in it. I have one in mine and love it. if you don't want to deal with all the maintenance, grab the gear diff.
the inner ball studs are a bit of a pain but 6 screw moves everything out of the way to get at them. I've moved mine once the entire time i've owned my buggy so that's not a big deal to me.
all my lipos are 25mm. unless you're running 3S, it's not something to worry about.
Everything breaks if you hit something hard enough and everything wears if you use it enough.
Lower plates do break at the kick up, Team C has released an upgraded version that drastically reduces this. even if you do break there, It a $7 part. On a B4, you're replacing the entire chassis plate.
Ball diff could be better but for now, A BFast diff upgrade is probably the best one you could put in it. I have one in mine and love it. if you don't want to deal with all the maintenance, grab the gear diff.
the inner ball studs are a bit of a pain but 6 screw moves everything out of the way to get at them. I've moved mine once the entire time i've owned my buggy so that's not a big deal to me.
all my lipos are 25mm. unless you're running 3S, it's not something to worry about.
Everything breaks if you hit something hard enough and everything wears if you use it enough.
05-06-2014, 10:26 PM
#55
I've run my Evo with a b-fast diff and the gear diff. While b-fast is certainly a marked improvement over stock, I'll take the gear diff any day of the week.
05-07-2014, 02:23 AM
#56
I've never broken a top plate there. I've had the mounts for the shock tower break but I landed upside down on my shock tower.
Lower plates do break at the kick up, Team C has released an upgraded version that drastically reduces this. even if you do break there, It a $7 part. On a B4, you're replacing the entire chassis plate.
Ball diff could be better but for now, A BFast diff upgrade is probably the best one you could put in it. I have one in mine and love it. if you don't want to deal with all the maintenance, grab the gear diff.
the inner ball studs are a bit of a pain but 6 screw moves everything out of the way to get at them. I've moved mine once the entire time i've owned my buggy so that's not a big deal to me.
all my lipos are 25mm. unless you're running 3S, it's not something to worry about.
Everything breaks if you hit something hard enough and everything wears if you use it enough.
Lower plates do break at the kick up, Team C has released an upgraded version that drastically reduces this. even if you do break there, It a $7 part. On a B4, you're replacing the entire chassis plate.
Ball diff could be better but for now, A BFast diff upgrade is probably the best one you could put in it. I have one in mine and love it. if you don't want to deal with all the maintenance, grab the gear diff.
the inner ball studs are a bit of a pain but 6 screw moves everything out of the way to get at them. I've moved mine once the entire time i've owned my buggy so that's not a big deal to me.
all my lipos are 25mm. unless you're running 3S, it's not something to worry about.
Everything breaks if you hit something hard enough and everything wears if you use it enough.
So OP, it's 210$ for the TC02 Evo + Bfast or gear diff, that's B5 territory.
05-07-2014, 06:33 AM
#57
Tech Apprentice
Have you considered Dex210 RTR ?
Replace the diff grease with oil and diff seals with silicone ones and you're good to go.
It handles great and responds to the setup changes well. Parts are not very expensive too...
Replace the diff grease with oil and diff seals with silicone ones and you're good to go.
It handles great and responds to the setup changes well. Parts are not very expensive too...
05-07-2014, 07:36 AM
#58
I've thought about a Durango, but they cost more than I will have to spend on a buggy. The eye is definitely not what I want either as I have all the electronics that I need.
05-07-2014, 07:56 AM
#60
Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the top plate but believe me, I had the "ears" where the screws go broken from the plate and it's clearly a design flaw. I've broke every kickup plate revision except for the kevlar one and the one with the screw, both I never acquired. I just do like you say, it's a cheap part. How about spurs? I've never seen other than the 80 and 81, fine for Mod but not even close for Stock racing. The lipos I was using were the Turnigy 5.0 30-40c, but any ROAR approved fits, and for the record I'm still running the TC02C, I like it very much. As you can see I drive this car since it was known to North America as the TQ SX10
So OP, it's 210$ for the TC02 Evo + Bfast or gear diff, that's B5 territory.
So OP, it's 210$ for the TC02 Evo + Bfast or gear diff, that's B5 territory.
Spurs available are 86T, 80T, 77T and 75T. The kits come with 80T. we don't have a stock classes where I race but I imagine something like a 30/75 would work.