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Velineon's Scale Street Slash 4x4

Velineon's Scale Street Slash 4x4

Old 03-22-2014, 10:44 AM
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-Premise-


After narrowly escaping a dog, I swerved hit a rock and went airborne and smashed into a mailbox post.

Mailbox-unscathed. Slash-In pieces.

Since I already have an Exo Terra for offroad duties, I thought I might as well take the chance and upgrade the Slash to the LCG chassis.

4 months later I finally bit the bullet.
I got the chassis from amazon for around $50 usd.
It took me about 4 hours in total to clean the old remains and find the screws and re assemble it. Traxxas' instructions that are included aren't the best, so I would recommend printing out some exploded views of the Rally so that you know which screws go where.

While further inspecting the damage, I realized that not only had I blown the caps off, i bent the shafts, ripped a bladder, leaked oil everywhere and sheared the head off of one of the shock mounting screws. I took the opportunity to get the blue aluminum caps, part 3637A.They are very hard to tighten without scratching. I also refilled all fours shocks with Assosciated 50WT oil. I used Losi springs. 2" green in the front, 2.5" Blue in the back - check Jang's thread for part numbers.

While putting together the chassis, I realized that the new LCG chassis did not include bulkheads. (I had originally planned to order all the parts in groups form Dollar Hobbyz). Mine was cracked and in three pieces. After a good scrubbing, I glued it with medium tire glue, (Duratrax, IIRC) and it's held up fine. CA works well for bonding FRP and your fingers together. I used Pro Line pro-trac a arms that I had lying around to replace the front. I did not realize they were wider, so I swapped the front stock a arms to the front and swapped the prolines to the back.

For the wheels, I am using Hpi Classic King 2.2 wheels from the Wheely King. I wanted to get them in white, but it appears that white is discontinued.

I got the idea of stadium truck wheels after seeing them on the back of Jangs nitro slash.

When I initially test fit hem, I put them on the back. I knew people had gotten 2.2 wheels to work on Slashes, but I forgot that they were 2wd models which I have come to realize use smaller front knuckles.

The fronts didn't fit, but I had already opened the bag and I really like the look, so I decided to make it work. Basically the wheels were too wide and had not enough offset for the knuckles. I solved it by clipping off the inside bead lip. Its not ideal, but i figured, it would be fine.
Below you can see how I cut it.

I then had to trim front c hubs.
I had to trim the upper mount off, but I wasn't using it anyways. I also had to trim a bit off the bottom. I do not think it will sacrifice any durability.

However, the front wheels still did not clear. So I added a bellcrank bushing on each axle after the hex. The wheel still tightens up fine, remains secure and can steer to full lock.
EDIT: This was a horrible idea. This prevented the wheels from securing properly. One melted and ruined a hex. Do NOT use bellcrank bushings as wheel spacers! I learned from my mistake and got wider Slash 2wd hexes.

I am using the hard swaybars with the links attached as far in as possible.

For power I am using a Castle Sidewinder SCT SV3 with a 1410 3800kv 4 pole. I am using the included speed pinion and I have had no heat issues. I am using a solar D771 servo. Traxxas splines will not fit.

I am using an SMC 6500mAh 70C 2S lipo and I really like it. It's been great and gives me ridiculously long run times, often pushing 45 minutes.


For tires, I am using Pro-line speedhawgs in the front and road hawgs in the back. The road hawgs last a bit longer. The speed hawgs are a bit grippier.

EDIT: The road hawgs do indeed look cool, but I have not been satisfied with them. They have worn quickly and not been that grippy and they also stunk when they were new. The speed hawgs I am indifferent about. I will try the Hpi V Grooves or Proline Road Rage or Proline Strikers if I can get ahold of them.


As you can see, I also "pulled" the rear fenders so that in case the body rubs, it doesn't cut up the tires. I used pliers and bent the lexan going around the arch.

I plan on getting revo gtr shocks with threaded aluminum bodies which I can get for $14. I also plan getting a rally rear bumper. I have been looking at parma's speed shop hauler body and Proline's 1966 ford body, but I would I like a car based body, like a 71 Charger or Chevelle.

All suggestions, critiques, advice, interjections, and comments are welcome and appreciated. I have never actually driven a true on road car, so I'm doing this from what I think it should be like. Expect plenty more updates.

Here is a picture now, I forgot to take some while doing the initial building process

Last edited by Velineon; 03-31-2015 at 01:56 PM. Reason: making it up to date
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:01 AM
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rpm wide revolvers fit with no modification.
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Old 03-23-2014, 05:52 PM
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you may want to soften up the springs in the front to give it more forward bite when hitting into the corner. I don't know if you changed the springs out from the offroad setup to something a little more softer to allow for some body roll versus jumping. you can always put in some thicker shock oil to absorb some of the jumps...on high bite surfaces roll center comes a lot more into play than bashing around in the driveway or front yard. you may want to check the slash thread too to see what they are doing to get more steering out of the racks or a better ackerman. the job looks really cool though....would be tempted to throw on a rally body or a sedan body to see how it looks!
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:14 PM
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I don't think the revo gtr shocks are the right fit.
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePanda
I don't think the revo gtr shocks are the right fit.
It will work if you use xo1 towers. It will give it a lower stiffer ride.
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mydudrevo
It will work if you use xo1 towers. It will give it a lower stiffer ride.
Didn't know it would work wit them...hmmm. Cool.
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:48 PM
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A while back on URC I proposed the idea of SCT Muscle cars, and posted a thread about it, and I guess Parma answered my call. When the 69 Muscle body came out, I knew it was just what I been looking for all along.

I ordered one over Christmas and completely disassembled my Slash to do some upgrading and some 2 yr overdue cleaning.

Here is a test fit of the body. Suggestions on paint color are appreciated




I recently realized that the packaging for my contact lenses is the perfect diameter for headlight buckets, I have started work on those. I Still need to figure out how I could chrome them.

I still feel that the Hpi Classic King wheels are a bit "truckish" with their 10 lugs and all, so I set to work designing these in Autodesk Inventor. They're slot mags, Ansen Sprints to be specific, and I took my measurements from the Hpi wheels.

Front:


Back


Quick render:


These pics are from about a week or two ago. I have since removed the wheel bolts, instead opting to put a hole 6mm deep so I can thread these bolts in:http://www.lockeduprc.com/M2-Acorn-W...-35_p_188.html

My reasons were that I feared the printer won't be able to do that accurately, and they were too small to be smoothed out to fix the "stepping" effect.

I also made a narrow version for the front that is .25" narrower on the inside. Essentially the offset is the same, so it will look the same from the outside, but be narrower on the inside so that it won't rub on the 4x4 knuckles.

Regarding the shocks, I think I will keep the Ultras because I want to preserve the long travel. I can always "lower" it by lowering the posts, which I couldn't do before.

My engineering teacher said he would be able to print the wheels soon. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress of my newly resumed pseudo-scale SCT-Muscle car build.
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:28 PM
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If you print some of those wheels, I would LOVE some in a short course 2.2/3.0 +3 offset fitment so I could run my 69 muscle Baja with proper wheels....
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:52 PM
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Well close inspection revealed my drive shaft was warped badly, so I got another $12 drinking straw

I also got a Stampede/Rally rear bumper.

I'm currently designing the light buckets, and I hope to have an actual build update soon. If someone could send me 1 slash shock shoulder screw I would really appreciate that.

I haven't gotten the wheels printed yet, but I'm think I'll need to modify them so for support structures when printing. I also will add ribbing instead of the gradual slope on the inside to save plastic, weight and cost. I was considering just having holes for lugnuts, and then screwing in some of Locked Up Rc's 1mm M2 lug nuts in the holes, because I'm worried that such small details won't print well. What do you guys think?

lodger is sending me some vinyl decal masks, and hpi-guy, i think I might follow your suggestion, as red is boring, my brother already has a green vehicle, lodger's is yellow, and blue/purple are not my style.
I hope to paint it over spring break.
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:52 PM
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Today I did a pretty big order:

Tamiya PS-18 Metallic Purple (body color)
Tamiya PS-41 Bright Silver (backing, bumpers and trim) I meant to get PS-48 but oh well.
Tamiya PS-31 Smoke (windows)
Parma Fasblack (for grille)
Bob Dively Liquid mask
Tamiya 6mm masking tape

Traxxas 5116, 5114, 1985, 3642X, 2579 screws, washers and bearings to replace stuff

HPI TF11/RF11 because the antenna is shortened on my TQ 2.4 gHz

I will be using some leftover white Pactra spray from my TT02 Carrera RS to paint the stripe on my body.

Pics will come soon.
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:53 PM
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What's a muscle car without any real muscle? I've been hearing non stop that the WP-SC8 is the go-to basher 4x4 sct esc, and I looked into it, and $130 seems like a nice price. However, I'm not sure which of the combos is best. the 3400kv seems like it would be slower than stock or equal. The 4000kv seems about right, but there's also a 4700kv which people report success with in 4x4 scts.

and thestug, I'm not sure if understand exactly what you're suggesting, but I think I have a pretty good idea. I was thinking of printing it face up so that the stepping effect does not affect the roundness of the wheel. Do you think I should take some thin gauge aluminum roughly 41.57mm long and bend it into 6 equal segments, 6.93mm long, and super glue it in the hex? Would that suffice?
It is pla, and it has been pretty durable. I just don't know if it will be printed clear, white or RED haha.

The wheels have not been printed yet, this probably my last chance to get any last revisions. The wheel lugs from LockedUpRC here
http://www.lockeduprc.com/M2-Acorn-W...-35_p_188.html
they are M2. Am I right in assuming that M2 means the thread is 2mm in diameter? I made the holes about 1.7mm in the hopes that I would be able to get them to "self tap".

I was also considering some of the GMade 1.9 RH05 hubs in silver to complement the look. has anyone had any experience with these?

Here is an up to date render of the wheel face.


Here is a back view of the narrow fronts which you can compare to the rears in an earlier post.


* Also I canceled my Dollar Hobbyz TF11/RF11 order just in time after realizing that it is a completely nonadjustable plastic-fantastic utter pile of crap.
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:53 PM
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Tonight I worked on the shocks.

I used the JConcepts shock limiter set, and AE and Axial shock oils.
For the fronts, I remembered reading on here somewhere that to rreduce understeer, which has been a problem, you could use a lighter shock oil.
So I used Axial 30wt from my Exo Terra. JConcepts suggests a short spacer on the inside and a tall one outside. I felt that this setup would not adequately lower the chassis, so I flipped it around, tall inside, short outside.

For the rear, I followed JConcepts suggestion of 2 tall spacers inside and one short one outside. I filled the shocks with AE 50wt to prevent the rear from bottoming out when landing or accelerating.

To improve turn in and the roll center, I moved the upper shock mounts for the front and rear to the outermost hole. On both the front and rear, I used the fourth hole out on the a-arms, although I may switch the 3rd one on the rear if it sags too much.

The result was the front a-arms perpendicular to the chassis, and the rears angled up at roughly a 10 degree angle, which was pretty much on point with what the Slash Spec Racing setup article here recommended.

Here is a picture of the left side, as the right is incomplete. Check out awful balded BFG's!
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:54 PM
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I did some masking today. The Parma masks are utter garbage. The side windows were not tall enough. The windshield mask was too wide. I gave up and I've been masking them myself with masking tape with much better results.

On the chassis, I finished up the other shocks and installed the rear swaybar.

I test fitted the wheels to see how it would look. Unfortunately the fronts stick out about 10mm, and the rears stick out about 15mm, but the rear has Protrac arms.


So I am now trying to see a comparison for the different rear a-arm lengths.
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...38#post2226538
Suggestions here are welcome.
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:54 PM
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Paints arrived. Need to finish masking
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:55 PM
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I'm peeling of the Parma Masks and redoing them with masking tape. I'm using the Tamiya tape for the edges, and then standard 3M masking tape for the big areas. I also finished the knuckles and all the suspension.
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