hdsport82

Hey all, I just bought a MP 777 and was wondering if any one has any setup info. The kit doesn't come with diff oil or shock oil, what would be a good starting point in this area.

Kanai II

40 wt. all the way around on the shocks.And for the diffs 5,000/7,000/1,000,f/c/r.

hdsport82

Thanks for the reply, now all I need to do is get some diff oil.

cmain

iTrader: (23)

I have collected these over the past few months hope it helps

greg degani
Got Back from Hemet car worked really well on Saterday, did lots of
testing with different set-ups. Finished third and almost won it but
crashed at the end..I had gotted lapped 7 minutes into the 15 minute
main by chad but i managed to put in fast laps in the last 7 minutes
and un-lapped myself and almost one but i blew it with 45 seconds
left..anyway Found a decent set-up for bumpy tracks. Diff
5000,7000,1000 Front oil 60wt 1.4 rear oil 35 wt 1.4 Front upper link
long, "High block""A" Middle steering hole on steering link. Shocks
inside on arm,inside on tower 14 mm ride hight clips front.
Rear end.. Shocks inside hole arm Second hole from inside on tower, Use
the upper shock holes on the tower. 3 degree toe in,2 degree antisquat.
Rear hubs back, use bottom hole hinge pin on hubs. 17 mm ride-hight
clips. Full travel front and rear(in the front yur travel is limited by
the arms hitting the chassie...and in the rear your travel is limited
by the shocks in the top holes in the tower) So no need to mess with
your droop screws..Hope that covers it.. Oh and i forgot That set-up is for like 80 degree weather, if you race
where it is really cold like 65 and below reduce your shock oil to like
50wt front and 25-30 rear




#4203 of 4687 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Fri Jul 23 21:47:21 2004:
Jim - 777 settup
front
60w oil (70w if hot out)
1.4 piston
blue spring
inside hole in front tower
inside hole for shock on arm
22 caster block
Low A block
std sway bar
ride height front bones just above level
5000 diff oil
steering in middle hole in rack
droop depends on track slightly limited

Center
48 tooth spur
13 clutch bell
3 shoe clutch 1.0 springs
7000

Rear
35 w oil
std rear sway bar
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe
hubs back
camber link long and in lower hole in tower
2nd to inside hole in tower
inside hole in arm for the shock
blue springs
bones level if bumpy just above level
1000

#81 of 105 by greg degani (gregd)gregdeg on Wed Jan 5 16:06:55 2005
Mike, Run 3000,7000,3000 for Kz. My car was really good there at the
last races..Ive done a ton of testing with diffs the last month, Ive
come to realize that you dont ever need to run an lsd in the front, all
it does is make your car hard to drive through bumps and just in
general. You can run a 3000 up front and turn-in like an lsd but still
have the stability and ease to drive of a diff. If 3000 up front gives
you too much steering run 5000 instead. Running 3000 in the rear is
really the key to the 777. It calms the car down and give it super
stability and traction out of the corners. If your on a super hooked up
track like Hemet that also has a lot of bumps, 1000 in the rear will
probably be better, but everywhere else run 3000.

#356 of 382 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Tue Jan 18 17:10:09 2005:
I ran 4 6 2 for the main at KZ for the odonell race and the car felt
good.

#803 of 828 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Wed Feb 9 11:15:02 2005:
777 Starting Settup for Hemet Nitro Challenge
Front:
60w
-1.4 pistons
-Blue Springs
-Front shock location in the upper middle hole in tower / inside hole
in arm
-22deg caster blocks
-A block
-Lower upper arm position
-Short upper arm (Inside hole in 3 hole caster block)
-Std front sway bar
-4000 front diff oil
-Steering ackerman in the back hole in steering rack (Increases
ackerman making the car turn a little smoother)
-Front ride height is with universals "slightly" above level

Center

-48 tooth spur gear
-6000 center diff oil (for bumpy track which hemet usually is)

Rear

-30w (or 35w if temp is warm)
-1.4 pistons
-Blue springs
-Shocks are mounted in very outside upper hole in tower / inside hole
in arm
-Rear camber link is outside in hub and upper hole in tower (to
increase rear traction. For the car to pivot more on the rear move rear
camber link down one hole at a time)
-3deg rear toe
-2deg anti squat
-rear hubs spaced one spacer in the front with two spacers in the back
( this will shorten the wheelbase slightly but this will give the car
the correct amount of dogbone sweep the car needs. To free the rear of
the car up move hubs back. For hemet hubs back might be ok.
-Rear ride height is universals level
-std rear sway bar

Clutch
-3 shoe Kyosho carbon shoes(with tips of shoes slightly cut)
-1.0 springs
-13 tooth clucth bell

#804 of 828 by Paul King (pitpop) on Wed Feb 9 11:22:54 2005:
Wow, awesome Mark. I have a few more questions if you don't mind.

You said the rear camber link was in the upper hole on the shock stay.
Does that mean it is outside? (because the upper most hole is on the
outside row) If so, as you move it down would you keep it on the outside
row of holes? Last questions: Would you ever go to the inside location
on the stay?



#805 of 828 by Trace McRae (pistol) on Wed Feb 9 11:46:42 2005:
Mark, what rear diff fluid?? Unless I'm blind...

#817 of 828 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Wed Feb 9 14:00:04 2005:
Paul - the settup sheet that was posted by James is correct as far as
the rear camber is located. If I mover to the outside row of camber
holes it will increase the camber during the travel of the supension.
This would allow the car to rotate very fast thru corners which the 777
allready does.

Trace - sorry the rear diff oil is 2000

James - the clutch springs are 1.0 not 1.1
I have a smaller eyelet than the stock one that allows me to
run the short upper arm with about 2 deg neg. camber. You can dremel
you stock one down by about 2mm. This will give you the right amount of
room to get 2 deg neg camber.

The chassis is also 4mm thick (Fioroni)

818 of 828 by Matt Windell (windellm) on Wed Feb 9 14:49:10 2005:
Mark - Are you running the stock chassis braces or the Fioroni?



#819 of 828 by James Dibble (pittbull) on Wed Feb 9 15:40:56 2005:
is every thing else right then?

toe out

camber angle

rebound? lenght?

how much out or in on the swaybar

rear hub position upper hole or lower hole

in the upper block

u have the A bushing
Holder L
bushing L or H?

under A block


thanx for your time Sir



#820 of 828 by Matt Windell (windellm) on Wed Feb 9 15:55:21 2005:
The setup said A block with low (L) block. You should be running A
bushing with A block?



#821 of 828 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Wed Feb 9 16:04:00 2005:
Matt - Fioroni chassi braces

James - toe out 1 deg
camber 1 to 2 neg
I am not sure on the rebound or shock length for droop I will
have to check
Sway bars are set at the end of the ball
Rear hub is in the lower hole(furthest from bearings)
I have "A" block with "L" bushing

#822 of 828 by Daniel Grobe (dgrobe) on Wed Feb 9 16:09:59 2005:
Mark, Hemet.. what kinda track is that.. high bite?? bumpy??
rutted?? loamy?? or should we stick with your current setup that you
posted last year?

#825 of 828 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Wed Feb 9 18:06:24 2005:
Hemet starts of smooth and can get extremly bumpy. The dirt is soft and
easy on tires as well.

#828 of 852 by BJ Weisman (bj) on Wed Feb 9 23:16:30 2005:
Mark,
Do you ever add weight to the back of the 777?
Do you ever run 1 degree of anti squat, what effect does it have
compaired to the 2?

#835 of 852 by arthur shull (hpgod) on Thu Feb 10 10:02:23 2005:
A more kickup angle= less stering, soaks up bumps better
B less kickup angle= more steering
L&H bushings change the roll center of the suspension
L raises the roll center of the chasis reducing chasis roll force in a
corner, ie less chassis roll

H lowers the roll center causing the chasis roll force to be higher, ie
more chassis roll for a given corner



#836 of 852 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Thu Feb 10 10:11:27 2005:
BJ - I havd never tried weight in the back of the 777. In my opinion
the chassis needs to be the same length as the K3 as well as the motor
in the same position as K3. I have ran 1 deg anti squat when the track
is really tore up. I am going to start with 2 this time. 2 deg should
give the car a little more side bite as well.

#837 of 852 by arthur shull (hpgod) on Thu Feb 10 10:16:50 2005:
Mark we are tryed that out this week handled the ruf like butter but
lost a good chunk of steering gained on the 777
next we want to try out a long chasis but the motor 1/2 way between 777
and k3



#838 of 852 by James Dibble (pittbull) on Thu Feb 10 10:35:54 2005:
when would u use the 1 anti squat?

2 anti squat?

3 anti squat?


also if you change your anti squat should change anything else also?

like shocks hole, move the rear hub forward u know stuff like that?

forgive me i'm trying to learn here i love brain food.

thanx

#840 of 852 by Mark Pavidis (rcmark) on Thu Feb 10 12:30:25 2005:
Arthur - with the short upper arm it will make the car easier to drive
when the track gets bumpy. If you need more steering with the settup
just make the upper arm longer till you get the steering you need.

James - 2 deg anti squat
GOOD-more sidebite
- more forward bite
- works well on slightly bumpy tracks
- jumps and lands better
BAD-car bounces a little more under acceleration on
- bumpy tracks

1 deg anti squat
GOOD - smooths the car out under acceleration on bumpy tracks
- the rear of the car is a little more free in
the corners
BAD - Car will not have the forward bite or side bite needed
for loose track conditions
- does not jump and land as good

#843 of 852 by aaron walker (aaron74) on Thu Feb 10 12:52:44 2005:
Same here bess. I went for 3 to 2 anti squat at CRCRC for the Winter
Midwest . Dialed the car.

Thought id post my setup for CRCRC it was dialed indoors.

Front:
Diff 7K
Shocks: Outer on arm outer on tower.
Sway Bar: 2mm spacing per side(stock bar)
B Block with L high block
Shock Oil: 60 wt Trinity
Piston: 1.4 teflons
Ride Height: Arms Level
20 degree hubs
1 degree toe out
Upper Arm: Long
Camber -2

Center 10k
Craddock Anti Locks

Rear:
Diff 2k
Rear toe: 2.5
Shock Position:Outer on Arm 1 hole in on tower
Ride Height a fuzz above level on the arms
2 Degree Anti Squat
Camber link Stock.
Anti Roll Bar: 3mm of spacing on each side.(stock bar)
Shock Oil: 45 wt trinity.

Suspension limited at both enda rear a little more than the front.

Works good .

#844 of 852 by aaron walker (aaron74) on Thu Feb 10 12:53:15 2005:
Oh yea -2 camber in the rear also.

#1114 of 1114 by Paul King (pitpop) on Mon Feb 28 23:01:51 2005:
Pavidis 777 Starting Setup for Hemet Nitro Challenge

Front:
-60w
-1.4 pistons
-Blue Springs
-Front shock location in the upper middle hole in tower / inside hole
in arm
-22deg caster blocks
-A block
-Lower upper arm position
-Short upper arm (Inside hole in 3 hole caster block)
-Std front sway bar
-4000 front diff oil
-Steering ackerman in the back hole in steering rack (Increases
ackerman making the car turn smoother)
-Front ride height is with universals "slightly" above level

Center:
-48 tooth spur gear
-6000 center diff oil (for bumpy track which Hemet usually is)

Rear:
-30w (or 35w if temp is warm)
-1.4 pistons
-Blue springs
-Shocks are mounted in very outside upper hole in tower / inside hole
in arm
-Rear camber link is outside in hub and upper hole in tower (to
increase rear traction. For the car to pivot more on the rear move
rear camber link down one hole at a time)
-3deg rear toe
-2deg anti squat
-rear hubs spaced one spacer in the front with two spacers in the back
( this will shorten the wheelbase slightly but this will give the car
the correct amount of dogbone sweep the car needs. To free the rear of
the car up move hubs back. For Hemet hubs back might be ok).
-Rear ride height is universals level
-std rear sway bar
-2000 rear diff oil

Clutch
-3 shoe Kyosho carbon shoes(with tips of shoes slightly cut)
-1.0 springs
-13 tooth clutch bell

This is the only one I have. Cody ran this set-up but a few slight
changes.

5-7-2
55 front oil/32.5 rear
middle hole on the c hub
2 carbon/1 aluminum shoe/1.0 springs

hdsport82

Thanks cmain, I'll record these settups and see which one works for me.

I've just started to build the Buggy and now I have an idea what to get from my local hobby store this week end.