JC8390

Does everyone pretty much set the shocks up on this car totally dead? Long story short, I wasn't bleeding near enough out of my shocks. Had a guy that always runs top 1-2 in stock buggy drive my car after installing my new fantom motor.. and he almost instantly knew the shocks weren't right. Bled the shocks... and the buggy got much much more forgiving.

The problem I'm having now is the caps are stripped out where the bleeder screw goes in. So I guess Ill be ordering new caps, maybe aluminum. Seems like the shocks would be awesome for a round or two then go down hill. I noticed oil leaking around the screw so I would open them up and find tons of air.

While I'm messing with shocks.. I keep hearing about machined pistons and upgraded shock shafts? Whats the deal?

Also.. opinions on running the white rear spring for stock buggy on a high bite indoor clay track? One of the guys there said the white spring may take some traction away but in stock you can afford it but on the + side they make lap times faster...?

Thanks.

Eddie_E

I only use the bleeder screw during the install into new caps and then I bleed it old school by over-filling a little and loosening the cap 1 thread while pushing the shaft until it bottoms and tighten before release. It gives about 4mm rebound when finished, so basically a dead feeling shock that works great.
The upgraded shafts just use a small screw like the bleeder to hold the piston. I've never popped an E-clip on a B5 shaft as they do a good job of machining the grooves. I like that the screw type come in pairs rather than single shafts, but all TiN coated shafts are fine.

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

B5 was announced Christmas day 2013 but who really cares my point was its not 10 years old.

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

With the bleeder screw you just need to snug it up for tightness. I never stripped one doing it that way and never had a leak out the bleeder screw. When building your shocks after adding oil make sure to let them settle and all the air bubble to disappear before putting the caps on. I found that after i bled them the fist time most generally i would have to bleed them a second time before putting them on the car. The machined pistons are nice and give the shocks a smoother feel. The new shafts are nice too especially since they eliminate the clip to hold the pistons. If your not on a tight budget i suggest the new shafts and pistons. You likely won't see much of a performance gain but getting rid of the clips was worth it for me. The gold shafts are cheaper than the chrome. I have used both, they both work well. The chrome shafts feel smoother but nothing you would notice on the track in my opinion.
The aluminum caps are a waste of money, the plastic ones work fine even the factory drivers use the plastic ones over aluminum. The AE shocks require frequent maintenance to keep them smooth and tend to leak a little but not much. I like their shocks but they could be better.

JC8390

That makes sense on bleeding the shocks. I was bleeding them once and done.. seems like 2-3 times is what I had to do at the track to get them right.

Do the machined pistons make any difference on the track or is it just a nice to have thing?

JAE

iTrader: (30)

How was the new fandom motor in comparison to what you were using and gearing? Thx

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

May notice a little difference with the machined pistons and clear xrings as it seems to free up the movement and make the shocks smoother.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Always build shocks at the track, the day of racing. Not the day before or morning of at home.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Sorry you were totally correct, forgot to mention that!

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Get real Joe! Who's gonna rebuild shocks at the track for a club race? How about we negotiate and agree on bleeding or releasing the pressure in the shocks at the track. I screwed up putting wheels on a fellow racers car last night and they started the race without us! If I had to rebuild shocks I would have missed a round of qualifying. Not everybody gets to the track at noon when racing starts at 6:00. You've been racing nitro too long!!!!

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Anyone try aluminum front steering and castor blocks? Trying to figure out how to eliminate some slop in the front end. Don't know the slop makes any difference though but thought I would tinker with it. Anyone done this?

tc5 man

It is easier to do these shocks than bladder at the track but yea about 90%, of us always do the shocks at home inless its a must kind of thing than the track. Rebuilding them forgot that doing it at the track lol.

JC8390

So.. you guys are rebuilding shocks every time out? Every race weekend?

tc5 man

Some guys will but most don't i only rebuild them when they leak or feel rough. Really though if you want the shocks to stay smooth after a rebuild replacing the shock shafts if they look warn will help a good bit and help with sealing .

JC8390

It definitely has more. It wasn't really the HUGE difference I was hoping for... but the difference is noticeable. It has more low end torque and mid range power. I noticed that I could turn corners before going into doubles sharper than I was before and still make the jump with less effort than before. There was little to no top end difference.

Running the same 32/69 gearing I ran on the trackstar motor. Motor timing maxed on both motors.

Ok thanks.