Keith B

Rotary tool you can guess where my first one is

Keith B

+1 on the pre-trimmed b5m j concepts wing. I was going to order one from my local hobby store. I'll most likely buy that one at rc planet

dcho87

just put together my b5m factory lite! been out of the hobby for some time now and decided to learn to solder. I think I'm pretty happy with the results! body painting still in progress though.

TravisS27

iTrader: (31)

I had pretty good luck with my kit wing from last June til now. I just finally replaced it with a JC Finnisher wing to match my front wing.

Just2much19

iTrader: (7)

Looking good and welcome back to the hobby! Great job soldering, the more you do it the better and easier it gets. Nice job bundling up the wires and keeping it clean too.

Body painting is something that I used to do but I just don't have the patience anymore for it. I found Diggity Designs and he does an awesome job for $35, worth every penny!! I just keep the single paint color body for messing around.

dcho87

Thank you! there are just so many steps along the building process that can bring out the inner OCD. I know I had plenty of those moments.

And I agree that soldering will take more practice. I learned it by fixing a horrible job my LHS did for me on another chassis (bad joints, burn marks on the motor and surrounding plastics) and was looking forward to apply that knowledge towards a clean slate, so here we are. For everything else like the wire bundling and parts selection, I was just trying to emulate what I read and saw from knowledgeable folks like yourself.

Here's a rough break-down, and welcome (more like curious) to hear any feedback. Maybe there isn't much to say.

• B5M Factory Lite
• Reedy 800Z Blackbox ESC + Sonic 540 M3 17.5T System
• Airtronics RX-461 FH4T & MT-4 TX
• 69T spur, 31T pinion (Robinson racing), as per the factory recommendation
• 32wt shock fluid in front and back, as per the factory recommendation
• Reedy 2s 5200 mah 50C saddle pack
• Jconcepts bar codes on AE wheels (blue, F/R)

Question - Is the little Teflon diff cover inside the outdrive recommended? Mine seems to not want to slide in unless I use a lot of force, and I'm worried that it will be difficult to retrieve if I ever wanted to take it out.

Gearhead82

iTrader: (2)

You can still make adjustments to the diff through the little hole in that diff cover so you don't really need to remove it often. And when you do need to remove it, you can disassemble the diff first and push it out from the other side of the outdrive.

Mason

If you run on a dusty track you will definitely want it in there as its helping keep the thrust assembly clean. I've never hear of anyone having problems with it not fitting either???

Mason

I have been running the serpent wing for awhile. It has definitely outlasted anything else I have tried (jconcepts,ae oem). I believe its .040 thick. I would buy another but mount it using the screw down method instead of the body clips because you can't use the wing wedge and still clip it in. I had to use some old pan car axle spacers to take up most of the slack and its not perfect. So just be aware there is some fit n finish to work out like anytime you use something non-standard.

Gearhead82

iTrader: (2)

Is this the Serpent wing you're using?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...500189/p269221

dcho87

thats what i suspected.. preserving the thrust assembly. it fits but it's just really tight. I think the particular outdrive is a little smaller? not to mention I had a hell of a time loosening and installing ball joints too lol.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Did you put chapstick or black grease on the threads when building the turnbuckles? I also drill out the ball cups with a 7/64 bit before threading in the turnbuckle.

JC8390

I have another one for you Associated guys....

I switched over to the aluminum hub. What position do I run and what washer do I run to get the same camber link height and position that I had before? I ran the stock hub with the 3 hole setup, with the holes up. I found plastic washers in the materials left over from the build and put enough under the ball stud to keep it from getting into the bearing... but I can tell the camber link isn't the same. I would like to run an aluminum washer that will put everything to as close as that stock position as possible.

Also.. does anyone know of a part number I can order to get the 3mm flat head screws needed to mount the wing on the JC wing mount?

Yanks213x

iTrader: (6)

I have the associated aluminum hubs and I have the ball stud on the forward outside position and 1 degree camber. The ball studs are on the inside position of the part on the shock shaft with a 2mm spacer.

As for the screw... Try a local hardware store first.. I'm sure you could find the screw for like 10 - 15 cents. If you order an "AE" official screw set it'll probably come with like 5 for 3-4 bucks. Just my .02 on that.

Gearhead82

iTrader: (2)

+1

I modified the stock wing mount to accept screws. I found 3mm screws and washers at my local Ace Hardware. They had a pretty good assortment. Here's what I did with my wing:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post14405944