54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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02-10-2016, 01:10 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Hey guys, still getting the hang of things. . .
I have my CE kit all together and have run a couple packs through it in the parking lot. I have an Airtronics MX-V and I have the steering trim set to the left about 7-9 clicks in order to get it to run straight. I also don't quite get full steering to the left. When installing the servo horn I couldn't get it straight 90 degrees. It either had to be slightly left or slightly right in order for the teeth to line up. Savox 1257 servo.
Is this normal, or is there something I can do to get it to track straight without using so much trim? Different servo horn? Do I need to manually adjust the turnbuckle lengths to compensate or something?
Also, I need to mount my MyLaps transponder before going to the track for the first time later this week. The instructions cautioned against installing it on a metal chassis and suggested mounting it to the front bumper or something. Is this necessary? Or can I get by just mounting it on top of the servo or something?
I have my CE kit all together and have run a couple packs through it in the parking lot. I have an Airtronics MX-V and I have the steering trim set to the left about 7-9 clicks in order to get it to run straight. I also don't quite get full steering to the left. When installing the servo horn I couldn't get it straight 90 degrees. It either had to be slightly left or slightly right in order for the teeth to line up. Savox 1257 servo.
Is this normal, or is there something I can do to get it to track straight without using so much trim? Different servo horn? Do I need to manually adjust the turnbuckle lengths to compensate or something?
Also, I need to mount my MyLaps transponder before going to the track for the first time later this week. The instructions cautioned against installing it on a metal chassis and suggested mounting it to the front bumper or something. Is this necessary? Or can I get by just mounting it on top of the servo or something?
02-10-2016, 01:24 PM
I get you I think a lot of guys though don't give the gear diff a try on Meduim traction clay cause it works.
02-10-2016, 02:03 PM
I have my CE kit all together and have run a couple packs through it in the parking lot. I have an Airtronics MX-V and I have the steering trim set to the left about 7-9 clicks in order to get it to run straight. I also don't quite get full steering to the left. When installing the servo horn I couldn't get it straight 90 degrees. It either had to be slightly left or slightly right in order for the teeth to line up. Savox 1257 servo.
1. Set trims on radio to 0
2. Attach horn to servo (at neutral) as close to 90 degrees as possible.
3. Attach plastic ballcup linkage to steering bellcranks.
4. Set bellcranks as straight as possible by adjusting radio sub-trim/trim
5. Adjust steering turnbuckles so wheels are straight (or whatever toe you prefer). They should be approximately the same length if you did 1-4 right.
6. Set EPA right/left so nothing hits.
Did I miss anything?
02-10-2016, 02:19 PM
I don't want to keep dragging this out but I've tried gear and ball diffs on everything from loamy low grip all the way to high grip astro. For me, even on astro the ball diff felt better. The lower the grip got, the worse the gear diff worked for me. Some of it may have just been my increased level of familiarity with the ball diff but I was definitely faster on every surface with the ball diff. I think the reason gear diffs have started to come back around are because of the increasing level of power and grip on cars and tracks. I also believe that a lot of why they are becoming more popular is because folks haven't been building and breaking in ball diffs properly. Just my $0.02.
02-10-2016, 04:34 PM
Tech Master
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Also, I need to mount my MyLaps transponder before going to the track for the first time later this week. The instructions cautioned against installing it on a metal chassis and suggested mounting it to the front bumper or something. Is this necessary? Or can I get by just mounting it on top of the servo or something?
02-10-2016, 04:59 PM
I mounted my transponder on top of my receiver wanted to mount it on the servo but the big cap from the esc went there .
02-10-2016, 05:06 PM
Tech Rookie
Also, I need to mount my MyLaps transponder before going to the track for the first time later this week. The instructions cautioned against installing it on a metal chassis and suggested mounting it to the front bumper or something. Is this necessary? Or can I get by just mounting it on top of the servo or something?
02-10-2016, 05:17 PM
I don't want to keep dragging this out but I've tried gear and ball diffs on everything from loamy low grip all the way to high grip astro. For me, even on astro the ball diff felt better. The lower the grip got, the worse the gear diff worked for me. Some of it may have just been my increased level of familiarity with the ball diff but I was definitely faster on every surface with the ball diff. I think the reason gear diffs have started to come back around are because of the increasing level of power and grip on cars and tracks. I also believe that a lot of why they are becoming more popular is because folks haven't been building and breaking in ball diffs properly. Just my $0.02.
02-10-2016, 07:28 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Do things in this order, start from 1:
1. Set trims on radio to 0
2. Attach horn to servo (at neutral) as close to 90 degrees as possible.
3. Attach plastic ballcup linkage to steering bellcranks.
4. Set bellcranks as straight as possible by adjusting radio sub-trim/trim
5. Adjust steering turnbuckles so wheels are straight (or whatever toe you prefer). They should be approximately the same length if you did 1-4 right.
6. Set EPA right/left so nothing hits.
Did I miss anything?
1. Set trims on radio to 0
2. Attach horn to servo (at neutral) as close to 90 degrees as possible.
3. Attach plastic ballcup linkage to steering bellcranks.
4. Set bellcranks as straight as possible by adjusting radio sub-trim/trim
5. Adjust steering turnbuckles so wheels are straight (or whatever toe you prefer). They should be approximately the same length if you did 1-4 right.
6. Set EPA right/left so nothing hits.
Did I miss anything?
Thanks! I had it set up correctly on the car but didn't fully understand the trim/subtrim and EPA settings on my radio. I went back through the manual and think I've got it figured out now.
02-10-2016, 07:37 PM
This is part of the reason I don't run a ball diff. I couldn't figure them out and no one I raced with said they were comfortable enough to show me how. I followed the video that is recommended on here and just couldn't get it. After 4 diff rebuilds, I put the car in the box it came in and put that box in the garage. I recently decided to give 2wd buggy another shot, this time with a gear diff. Gear diffs are easy and I'm familiar with them which is why I now have one in my B5M. I'd try a ball diff again if I could have someone show me in person, but until then, I'll keep the gear diff.
Yea i ran ball diffs in a 2wd even when i started and now i run 1/8 scale during the outdoor season so yes i rather run a Gear diff just easyier to keep up with . If you got the right weight oil around 3000k to 4000k still curious about 5000k on clay it will grip fine on most clay .
As long as you have the right tires and sauce and slipper set good its fine. Can i tell the difference between the two diffs with the ball i guess it can be more predictable as long as it keeps it tightness on the track . Gear i noticed more forward drive on power most of the time its predictable just stay out of the clay marbles or bumps around that's about it.
So really its a preference thing on the two diffs yes a ball diff is eayier to set on a fly for tightness and looseness . I haven't tried the gear diff on clay with this buggy but on my Dex210 V2 i did but that buggy was inconstant rear grip wise not enough Rear weight bias.
02-10-2016, 09:26 PM
I'm putting in a ball diff with a 3 gear mid motor it says in the B5M Lite manuel to have the diff thrust bolt facing the spur gear is that right ? I though reguardless you have it facing the non spur gear side .
02-10-2016, 11:10 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (34)
How do I get my 3gear car to rip wheelies like Alex K's on a flat no traction clay surface???
This past weekend at the JC winter nationals in stl, Alex was ripping wheelies on the straight before the race stared. The traction was terrible, I ran 4gear like always because it seems to have more forward bite on our low bit Midwest tracks. But he and every othe fast ae car was running 3gear and looked to have no issues with forward drive. So I switched to a 3gear and my car doesn't do wheelies when I punch it, my tires are well sauced and inserts broken in, Idk what I'm missing? My car has BT's most recent club setup on it, esc setup as well.
This past weekend at the JC winter nationals in stl, Alex was ripping wheelies on the straight before the race stared. The traction was terrible, I ran 4gear like always because it seems to have more forward bite on our low bit Midwest tracks. But he and every othe fast ae car was running 3gear and looked to have no issues with forward drive. So I switched to a 3gear and my car doesn't do wheelies when I punch it, my tires are well sauced and inserts broken in, Idk what I'm missing? My car has BT's most recent club setup on it, esc setup as well.
02-11-2016, 02:46 AM
wheres your gearing. are you freinds with alex on any social networks. hes a great kid and im positive he would help u out. is your buggy making traction with the 3 gear?
02-11-2016, 05:44 AM
This is what I did but I'm new and learning as I go..
02-11-2016, 07:04 AM
That video is a pretty good example...That said..
Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??
From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.
There is some trial and error involved..
If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.
Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.
Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??
From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.
There is some trial and error involved..
If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.
Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.
Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
The only thing I was worried about was the heat build up. I know I wasn't running it fast (set my throttle trim on my transmitter about 9 clicks up), but I made sure to give it a few MI uses between cycles to cool down. Melted a diff in my rc12l years ago because it was too loose and I was too young to understand what was happening.