buhalyb

Should have all the bearings you need for both trannys I thought? Mine came with enough for both configurations

Cody227

I just got my B5m (not the light) coming from a C4.1. What are the most essential must-have upgrades and mods? Are there any parts that carry over from the B4?

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

The aluminum rear ball stud mount from AE, or someone else, is an important upgrade. Then just have spares, arms, shock towers. I like my lite with the flat front arms and tower and B5 rear arms. I also have the setscrews in both front and rear hubs. Glue the inserts into the front steering block as well. It is a very solid car.

After that, upgrade as your budget allows...

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

I run my B5mFL on outdoor loamy tracks. It's really all about the tires. I had both kits, B5 and B5mFL, at the track. The B5 had a slight rear bite advantage but the B5mFL was just so smooth and easy to drive. The B5 breaks loose more violently. I don't think you'd be disappointed with the B5m conversion. I would keep the tower and arms from the B5 though. Use the rear arms too, just put the L arm on the R of the car and vice versa.

tc5 man

I have the Rear arms on my B5M with the left on left and right on right is that right ? Hearing the Rear arms the left on right and right on left was making me wonder .

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

No, they should be left on right and right on left. At least that is the way it says to do it in the B5mFL manual.

Wait, are they B5m arms or B5 arms? There is a difference. B5m arms would be left on left and right on right.

mick33b4

iTrader: (14)

If there are lots of tight 180s, and lots of traction (carpet), it may be helping keep the rear from diff'ing out. When the vehicle rolls to the outside, the inside wheel unloads or in some cases lifts. With less torque holding the open (inside) wheel, the outside ends up with less torque and less punch out of the corner. Heavy oil just adds internal friction, and keeps the inside wheel from running away. I would couple the change with a high rear roll center to get the rear to rotate. Be careful, as this can open up to more traction rolls. Especially with low ride heights.

The interesting question is: can you get to the same "fast" setup by substituting a rear sway bar and using a ball diff or light oil?

Matt Ward

iTrader: (23)

I just bought a B5m lite and I'm having trouble with the front arms binding. It seems to be both upper turnbuckles and I have no idea why they would be doing it. Anyone else have this problem?

mick33b4

iTrader: (14)

I run greens all around, with 1.7s and 30/35 R/F oil on similar conditions. Check out the Ray Munday B5M setup sheet for "Bumpy" conditions for many other good tips!

Kbmoss

iTrader: (14)

Theyve had well known problems with the ball cups being tight. Call Ae and they should ship new ones, or put them on upside down a few times to get them to stretch. Google it and theres a few youtube vids about it and how to fix it.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Sell it and buy a Lite.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Which b5m? The Lite, the CE, or the Team kit?

The Lite and CE both with Rear motor rear arms, these must be ran backwards to the markings. L on R, and R on L.

If it's a team kit, then L on L, then r on r.

Or, you could read your manual, or the first page of this thread.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

CE comes with MM arms.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Thanks for the clarification!

fordohio

iTrader: (3)

Question for the guys running with taped in batteries. I'm just getting ready to run 2wd buggy for the first time. My history is mostly nitro and 4wd sct. I'm trying to understand how you only run 1 battery. I'm thinking if I only ran one pack. It would take a long time between runs on practice nights. Where previously I've always had 3 and rotated them.