54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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10-29-2015, 06:31 AM
In regard to 17.5 motor timing, every motor is different, but my experience on my D4 maxzilla in my RC10 worlds car that I run in 17.5 at my local track is that gearing causes pretty linear and predictable increases in heat where as timing tends to add heat linearly until you reach a point and then it starts going exponentially higher very quickly. In other words, the timing on the motor is kinda separate from the gearing and you just ramp it up until you see less/no more gains and start seeing heat start to increase more, then back it off to where you were right before where the motor was pretty much just as fast but ran cooler. Then you set gearing, and gearing lets you move around that heat in a more controlled fashion and you never touch timing again. IMHO, timing is more dependent on your class, so there's pretty much an ideal setting for your motor/car and once you find it, per track gearing changes are your go to.
On my D4 maxzilla in my RC10 worlds car, that's 45º on the endbell. I'm generally faster than the entire pack and my motor never gets anywhere close to too hot. I could gear up, but it takes away some corner exit power, so I'm really at the point where I can run my gearing for track preference rather than running into heat limitations.
My $0.02.
Wayne
On my D4 maxzilla in my RC10 worlds car, that's 45º on the endbell. I'm generally faster than the entire pack and my motor never gets anywhere close to too hot. I could gear up, but it takes away some corner exit power, so I'm really at the point where I can run my gearing for track preference rather than running into heat limitations.
My $0.02.
Wayne
10-29-2015, 06:38 AM
10-29-2015, 07:27 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (31)
What are your thoughts on a square vs shorty? I ran at a different track this past weekend and I really struggled for on power traction, especially coming out of a turn. This track uses the same tire M4 Primes as my local track.
Most of the fast guys were running shorties instead of a full square. This was the only major difference I could see from their setups. I just wonder if running a shorty all the way back would give more rear bite on corner exit?
Most of the fast guys were running shorties instead of a full square. This was the only major difference I could see from their setups. I just wonder if running a shorty all the way back would give more rear bite on corner exit?
10-29-2015, 07:49 AM
Tech Rookie
10-29-2015, 08:14 AM
I assume it's 3D printed. was it SLA or SLS, which material did you use? I'm having good results using Accura 60 and I like it because it's transparent.
10-29-2015, 08:23 AM
Dual Rate or Actual EPA
Thanks for offering some help, Jon. I'm running the Spektrum DX4C. Please understand that I'm just recouperating from the cost of ditching traxxas rtr equipment to fund two of these radios and b5m's for me and my boy. Not that the radio is bad, but I'm not in a situation to spend all of my hobby funds on just me.
Anyways, back to my original post - I've exhausted most trouble shooting options. My son's 1258tg set up great using ae instructions. My spectrum when installed straight up (and looking into the face of the servo and horn) would turn counterclockwise to lets say 11 o'clock. Clockwise it would turn to 2:30. It left me with reducing steering travel to the one side to almost 70 % and I had no where near enough steering. This left me with two options. Leave it straight up and move the horn to roughly 1:00 or position the horn over one tooth counter clockwise and set the subtrim to straight up. Depending on the direction I took at this crossroad, I either had more travel to the left or right. With the motor not being centered and being planted more when turning left (4gear trans), I opted for the setup that offered more steering travel to the right. The weight on one side was noticeable enough for my track layout that I needed more help turning right then left. The flipside is that I settled on a straight up horn with subtrim setting it to 1:00 - and I get a very responsive buggy when going from right back to the left. Full left to right is a little laggy but I have a little more negative expo in that direction to help. Oh yeah the flipside - being unable to adjust the draglink's length with a horn positioned at 1:00 leaves me with uneven links.
Because of the bellcrank not being centered, and the way that it swings, I may play with Ackerman to even things up, but I should say, that by using the servo spacers and servo horn ballstud spacer - really did add total steering for both sides. I'm not sure if everybody else's head hurts but my head ache is starting to finally wear off lol.
I hope that wasn't too much. I know the original post was a novel but I do need more help. In the meantime, cheers to those of you doing well in the b main. I'm a few seconds from being 2 laps down from the a main competition and I'm hoping I can get some setup help in the future. Later
Anyways, back to my original post - I've exhausted most trouble shooting options. My son's 1258tg set up great using ae instructions. My spectrum when installed straight up (and looking into the face of the servo and horn) would turn counterclockwise to lets say 11 o'clock. Clockwise it would turn to 2:30. It left me with reducing steering travel to the one side to almost 70 % and I had no where near enough steering. This left me with two options. Leave it straight up and move the horn to roughly 1:00 or position the horn over one tooth counter clockwise and set the subtrim to straight up. Depending on the direction I took at this crossroad, I either had more travel to the left or right. With the motor not being centered and being planted more when turning left (4gear trans), I opted for the setup that offered more steering travel to the right. The weight on one side was noticeable enough for my track layout that I needed more help turning right then left. The flipside is that I settled on a straight up horn with subtrim setting it to 1:00 - and I get a very responsive buggy when going from right back to the left. Full left to right is a little laggy but I have a little more negative expo in that direction to help. Oh yeah the flipside - being unable to adjust the draglink's length with a horn positioned at 1:00 leaves me with uneven links.
Because of the bellcrank not being centered, and the way that it swings, I may play with Ackerman to even things up, but I should say, that by using the servo spacers and servo horn ballstud spacer - really did add total steering for both sides. I'm not sure if everybody else's head hurts but my head ache is starting to finally wear off lol.
I hope that wasn't too much. I know the original post was a novel but I do need more help. In the meantime, cheers to those of you doing well in the b main. I'm a few seconds from being 2 laps down from the a main competition and I'm hoping I can get some setup help in the future. Later
Are you adjusting your steering dual rate or actual EPA? I have have never ran into a problem with getting a server to have the correct amount of travel unless one or more of the follow were an issue.
1. Defective Servo
2. In-correct Servo Horn (I always use the stock AE ones with AE kits)
3. In-correct radio settings.
In setting up the servo I follow this process:
1. Install Servo Horn with straight up and manually rotate server with arm fully through servo travel range. Sometimes I will have to settle a little bit on centering as it may not be perfect.
2. Install servo into B5m and install servo linkage.
3. Using my Sub-Trim Not Trim on my radio I will adjust the servo centering so that the steering rack is centered.
4. Will adjust my turnbuckles so tires are pointed straight or with desired amount if toe.
5.With car and radio on, I will now turn my car all the way to the left and use my EPA/Travel adjustment to reduce travel or increase travel to the left until I reach full travel and then do the same to the right.
Ensure that your Dual Rate (Steering is set to 100%) before you start this process.
If this does not work then go back to the top and verify that you have a servo that works correctly and moves through it's full range of travel out of the car if that is the case then it is something binding up or in-correct radio settings.
Good Luck!
10-29-2015, 11:17 AM
Hardly anyone runs square packs indoors on higher bite, even in mod. I am sure some people do though. Personally, I would tune around the shorty pack. Also, you said you were running on a "different" track then you normally do? Well even though the tires are the same, the traction level might not be. Apples and oranges. I would run your b5m at your normal track with your tires and adjust from their. In general my B5M is really hooked up coming out of the corner running clay or m4 primes (different local tracks). I have found that for some tracks using the same tires, my sauce and tire foam program needs to be adjusted. I have also found that in general, the 3 gear is a little more squirly getting hard on the throttle on exit than the 4 gear. But in high bite situations on slicks, I rarely have any issues with 3 gear.
10-29-2015, 12:00 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
except for few minor differences in his procedures I hasve been doing it that way for 30 yrs.
Don't see into it so much. adjust with wiggle room. Also some people will tell you different but don't look for your throws from the right side to the left side to be the same. The manufacturer does that engineering. if its off by 3-5 clicks it is ok.
Don't see into it so much. adjust with wiggle room. Also some people will tell you different but don't look for your throws from the right side to the left side to be the same. The manufacturer does that engineering. if its off by 3-5 clicks it is ok.
10-29-2015, 12:08 PM
10-29-2015, 12:31 PM
10-29-2015, 12:44 PM
