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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

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Old 10-19-2015, 10:05 AM
  #16141  
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Originally Posted by SCTDan
Where the contact between the metal pieces is solid the grease is pushed out and does not add any resistance. In the loose areas it remains and helps prevent arcing and corrosion. I've done resistance tests and have not seen any difference in the same connection with and without the grease. However with it the connection does go together and come apart easier.
So you've done nothing but "lube" your connectors then...?

If that's the case then..."user results may vary"
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:37 AM
  #16142  
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I had a peak battery bullet sorta melt the case a little bit, and when that happens, I just re-tension my bullets. I'd rather have them hard to pull out than melt a battery down. Remember how hard deans plugs used to be some times. Yeah, that.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:53 PM
  #16143  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
I had a peak battery bullet sorta melt the case a little bit, and when that happens, I just re-tension my bullets. I'd rather have them hard to pull out than melt a battery down. Remember how hard deans plugs used to be some times. Yeah, that.
No astroglide in the lipo sack for me
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Old 10-19-2015, 04:55 PM
  #16144  
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Originally Posted by SCTDan
Where the contact between the metal pieces is solid the grease is pushed out and does not add any resistance. In the loose areas it remains and helps prevent arcing and corrosion. I've done resistance tests and have not seen any difference in the same connection with and without the grease. However with it the connection does go together and come apart easier.
At first i was just thinking of the electrical contact. But I agree with Racer and Raz. I want my connectors to be secure, I don't mind them being a slight pain. I used to use Sermos/PowerPoles but when I started running on carpet and hard pack tracks I started having disconnect issues. I also want the install to take some effort and thus hopefully some thought to avoid errors.

But hey, if it works for you that's fine, just my thoughts. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:26 PM
  #16145  
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Originally Posted by Stampy79
What is involved and what parts do I need to change my 4 gear trans to a new 3 gear ? And will a Schelle clutch work on it afterwards
https://www.teamassociated.com/news/...on_for_the_B5M

Yes all this is doing is flipping around your motor and taking a a gear out. Any slipper is fine.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:02 PM
  #16146  
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Originally Posted by BrandonBreh
https://www.teamassociated.com/news/...on_for_the_B5M

Yes all this is doing is flipping around your motor and taking a a gear out. Any slipper is fine.
You will also need diff shims for the 3 gear
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:34 PM
  #16147  
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This is probably a dumb question, but how do you get the top shaft bearing out on the closed side? I remember it was a snug fit when I built it, now I just can't seem to get it out.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:50 PM
  #16148  
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Originally Posted by dway100
This is probably a dumb question, but how do you get the top shaft bearing out on the closed side? I remember it was a snug fit when I built it, now I just can't seem to get it out.
I use a curved tip dentist pick. Can get a 4 pack of picks from Harbor Freight for $3.
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Old 10-19-2015, 07:36 PM
  #16149  
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You can also ask your hygenist for picks. They throw them away after they come out of the autoclave after a certain number of times.
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Old 10-19-2015, 07:48 PM
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Your local Pharmacy (CVS or Walgreens) usually sell pocket Dental picks for a couple bucks.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:49 PM
  #16151  
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Default Converting B5M to 3 gear trans with Schelle

I have the Schelle clutch and I am wondering if I will need anything but the cases, cover and motor plate to convert this buggy from a 4 gear trans to a 3 gear ? Thanks for any help
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Old 10-20-2015, 03:07 AM
  #16152  
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Originally Posted by dway100
This is probably a dumb question, but how do you get the top shaft bearing out on the closed side? I remember it was a snug fit when I built it, now I just can't seem to get it out.
You could also use the redneck tool: any flat surface such as a table. Slam the gearbox half on the surface a couple times and usually it pops right out.

Another option is just to leave it in there and get a few more bearings so someday down the road you can build a complete 4 gear to have as a quick swap unit? That's what I am gonna do as 5X10 bearings are as plentiful as water, thanks AE engineers!
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:34 AM
  #16153  
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Originally Posted by Gpeters66
You will also need diff shims for the 3 gear
Hang on what shims for 3-gear transmission from a 4-gear. I've bought the motor plate shaft and case. I don't remember seeing shims were required?

What part number please?
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:15 AM
  #16154  
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Originally Posted by thecman26
You could also use the redneck tool: any flat surface such as a table. Slam the gearbox half on the surface a couple times and usually it pops right out.
The redneck tool worked great. Three smacks on the table and it was out. Thanks!
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:46 AM
  #16155  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Hang on what shims for 3-gear transmission from a 4-gear. I've bought the motor plate shaft and case. I don't remember seeing shims were required?

What part number please?
For the record i never heard of needing any extra shims for it.
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