Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Tech Champion
I have been using 2 of those batteries in my B5M Lite for a couple of months and have had no issues. The one thing I do is use a small amount of dielectric grease on the connections so they don't require so much force. I have been doing this for years on all my battery connections and have never had a fraction of the issues people report about plugs melting and wearing out. You do have to clean the connections and reapply the grease frequently to keep them clean but I feel it's worth the effort.
im just curious what the difference is between the hard arms and towers over the stock?
Thanks, might give it a try. Just wonder if the mount will be a weak point if the wing is that much stronger.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
I just put a Savox 1258 Black edition in my T5M and its frikin sweet!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
Where the contact between the metal pieces is solid the grease is pushed out and does not add any resistance. In the loose areas it remains and helps prevent arcing and corrosion. I've done resistance tests and have not seen any difference in the same connection with and without the grease. However with it the connection does go together and come apart easier.
For those of you running the +4mm mount, what o rings come in the kit thats "required" to run them?
Can you just run the generic orings, or did they get thinner ones?
Can you just run the generic orings, or did they get thinner ones?
Tech Rookie
What is involved and what parts do I need to change my 4 gear trans to a new 3 gear ? And will a Schelle clutch work on it afterwards
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Hi all,
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
Cheers!
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
Cheers!
Hi all,
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
V2 Pistons will only work w/ Version 2 pistons. They top is narrower (if I remember correctly) to account for the piston to "sit" on the shaft rather then be held between two eclips. So short answer is no.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Egh, tough call here. My original didn't leak that bad as long as I got the 4 screws tight. It helped, but not a ton.
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
There's not really any aftermarket options right now. Nor really another design to base it off of besides the Kyosho shocks.
Cheers!
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
V2 Pistons will only work w/ Version 2 pistons. They top is narrower (if I remember correctly) to account for the piston to "sit" on the shaft rather then be held between two eclips. So short answer is no.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Egh, tough call here. My original didn't leak that bad as long as I got the 4 screws tight. It helped, but not a ton.
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
There's not really any aftermarket options right now. Nor really another design to base it off of besides the Kyosho shocks.
Cheers!
can anyone tell me what "hard" arms and towers will do over the stock parts? Is it worth getting them? thanks alo
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Reduce flex. More brittle compared to regular plastic. Only worth it if you are trying top reduce flex. Usually more desired in high bite situations. Mix and match between hard and soft parts for chassis tuning.
Tech Addict
Has anyone experience with a combo of Sonic Mach 2 8.5T and GM-GENIUS Race II 80R? A local shop owner told me that, if you arent into pro-racing, you dont need a ESC like the Nosram HD. Would save me up do 100$ and the Graupner ESC seems to be pretty good for the Sonic
The other thing: Can anyone give some information on how long my runtime will be on a standard track? It's hard for me to choose the ideal motor. Sonic Mhac 2 with 7.5T?8.5T?10.5T
The other thing: Can anyone give some information on how long my runtime will be on a standard track? It's hard for me to choose the ideal motor. Sonic Mhac 2 with 7.5T?8.5T?10.5T
Last edited by man1ac; 10-19-2015 at 05:11 AM.
Tech Rookie
I've been running this same 17.5 motor along with the X-Car 120A ESC in both my (new) B5M Lite and my son's (my old B4.2FT) car for over a year now. Both are set up in blinky mode with conservative (per the book) gearing and zero end bell timing. Obviously we're not the fastest cars on the track, but our goal is to simply stay ON the track! Upside down doesn't win races, nor do broken cars. Set up like this we can run and run, working on lap consistency, and never worry about overheating anything.
Granted, I'll admit my experience with other brushless hardware is zip. Last time I ran RC was 1988 with brushed mod motors and a Victor Engineering VIC-4 ESC. Still have it, too, and it still works!
Chris
Here is a ESC and motor combo for a great price, good one to start off on in stock racing or just playing around.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...bo_17_5T_.html
Granted, I'll admit my experience with other brushless hardware is zip. Last time I ran RC was 1988 with brushed mod motors and a Victor Engineering VIC-4 ESC. Still have it, too, and it still works!
Chris
Here is a ESC and motor combo for a great price, good one to start off on in stock racing or just playing around.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...bo_17_5T_.html
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)