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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

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Old 09-10-2015, 07:10 PM
  #22621  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
wow,

a lot of suggestions. seems to be on power push, and entry into corner.

I'll have to go thru everything and note again. I guess this buggy may require a different driving style, I've only driven it once so this Sunday I'll take it out to practice and work on it for a few hours.

I run on hard packed clay, a little bumpy, med to high traction with light dust.
I use Clay dirtwebs.

i'm going to check drag brake right now. I don't like to drive point to point.
yes, the b5m is a little more forgiving to drive then other cars. Just play around with the setup and you will fine what you need. I dont enter turns on power. I layoff the power a split second to setup the car up and roll back into it. Maybe you need a front wing
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:26 PM
  #22622  
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Front wing = just plain wrong
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:10 PM
  #22623  
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Originally Posted by Scargoes
I've run both the Team Powers Actinium and the Trinity D4 1S SS. I prefer the TP. Running the same gearing at Nor Cal Hobbies the TP was faster and ran cooler. 135 vs 160. I was told the Trinity was more of a RPM motor than the TP but both were at max (printed) timing and with 72/29 gearing, the TP pulled harder with less fade.
Not having actually raced this TP motor and only spending time doing practices, I settled on a final ratio quite a bit lower than you did. With your gearing you ended up at 6.455, running mine at 33\69 puts me at 5.436. If I stick to five minute intervals and timing on the end can turned almost all the way down, I am temping the TP 17.5 at around 145, pretty safe temp range from what I can gather.

I would be curious to see how your buggy handles a lower ratio and if you can see improved lap times or not. Since I am gearing to use the torque this motor provides, I found that adding timing brought on more heat with less ability to swing the lower gear ratio with out any added acceleration. Since the track is being reset this week, this might all be a moot point if it is a more open and flowing track come this weekend

With the setup I have now and the track as it was this last couple months, they had the AMB system on so you could get calls for lap times and I was able to turn a couple low sixteen second laps, almost always followed by a horrible lap or two. I am pretty impressed with the Team Powers ability to put a decent draw on my lipo and turn it into usable power. Now I just need to work on consistency which might take me a while
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:33 PM
  #22624  
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Originally Posted by bigdog
Team powers motors are not a knock off of any other motor. They are there own standing motor company that's been around for awhile. Team powers is more known for its on road wins! The Actinum motor is a short stack motor for those of you wanting to run a short stack motor.
pardon my ignorance, but what is a short stack motor?
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:34 PM
  #22625  
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I refuse to be part of the front wing mafia lol.

so since I am running a lightweight servo I added 10 g to the front of the servo

I rebuilt front shocks with 3 x 1.4's tapered in front and flat rears with 1.6 both FT machined pistons. Feel smooth as butter.

went crazy and got the fox shock bodies and Tin shafts.

32.5 ft/30 rr

I bumped drag brake from 10 to 15.

I generally like to let off the corner let the front tires grab, let the car rotate then hit it. Since this is a 3 gear I think you have to be smoother on throttle.

It should be a lot better. I bought it so I can run with the fast guys.

The only other thing I haven't torn back into is the diff to check the thrust bearing. might have to throw the schelle one in.

who knows I may be able to run it Saturday and miss the first round and wing it .


do you guys have to run a lot of drag brake in this car?
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:57 PM
  #22626  
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I run 0 drag brake. If I need to slow I roll the throttle forward.
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Old 09-11-2015, 02:10 AM
  #22627  
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Yep i run 0 drag brake , 17.5 blinky
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:36 AM
  #22628  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I refuse to be part of the front wing mafia lol
That's what I said about mid-motor buggies.
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Old 09-11-2015, 07:26 AM
  #22629  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
Front wing = just plain wrong
It worked great on my XXX in 1997.
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Old 09-11-2015, 07:33 AM
  #22630  
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Any tips to building the sway bars and the length of the tie rods?
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:17 AM
  #22631  
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Originally Posted by yodace
Any tips to building the sway bars and the length of the tie rods?
Make sure left and right tierods are equal length. Sway bars are not really used on the B5M. Use digital calipers to make sure the tierods are equal.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:21 AM
  #22632  
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yep, digital calipers....

So, am I the only one using higher drag brake on my B5m? I think I'm currently running 30%... i dunno, the drag brake doesn't feel that impactful either, I don't know if it's the Reedy Blackbox 410R, but it seems to be pretty smooth with how it's helping me shift the weight forward more quickly than using my throttle finger. I guess it could depend on the track layout too.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:26 AM
  #22633  
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all depends on layout to a point but most 17.5 no need for drag.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:45 AM
  #22634  
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo
So, am I the only one using higher drag brake on my B5m? I think I'm currently running 30%... i.
I run 15% drag brake on my hobbywing 3.1. Which is just barely noticeable... it just keeps the roll under control and doesn't really shift very much weight forward at all when I lift.

Originally Posted by scr8pn4205
all depends on layout to a point but most 17.5 no need for drag.
Were all very glad you're discounting somebody elses needs. Some people like a lot of drag brake, some people just a little, and some people prefer none.
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Old 09-11-2015, 09:09 AM
  #22635  
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Ya, I agree. As with any car, radio, or esc setup you just need to experiment with this stuff and see what you like. Everyone likes a different "feel". So figure out what works for you by putting in the work. Keep track of what you like and the conditions they were run in, and you will find you can get the car to act the way you want quickly and easily as conditions change.
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