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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

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Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:58 PM
  #14566  
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^^^ yes the stock AE B4 bumper works fine. If you want a little more coverage without being to much bigger the RPM B4 bumper covers a little more then the stock AE B4 does.
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dbowen
The reason this was done is bc Kurt and a lot of guys are using ball cups instead of the lock nut so it doesn't damage the battery and the old screws were to short couldn't get the ball cup tight enough to hold the battery
How would you use a ballcup i stopped using the screws and the locknut because it did put 2 small dents in my battery, now i just use the foam and the battery strap without the screw and the locknut.
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
I think maybe there isn't enough B5m pron on this thread lately, so let me share my rebuild. Carbon chassis build is complete along with new wiring. New paint is up next. Here is how the chassis layout ended up.
Beautiful install Brandon! Very nice detail work.
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:26 AM
  #14569  
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Hey. Guys ,

To save me months of research , what is the proven best 17.5 spec motor on med to large out door tracks ?
Straight out of the box legal motors .....

Thx chad
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:36 AM
  #14570  
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Originally Posted by Aaron33
How would you use a ballcup i stopped using the screws and the locknut because it did put 2 small dents in my battery, now i just use the foam and the battery strap without the screw and the locknut.
Ya the locknuts are a bad design. I used two old ballcups and cut the ball part off with a dremel. Then used longer screws to get them nice and tight. Works great.
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:52 AM
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I used something like this with my Schelle Strap:

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=8209

You could use something longer, there are longer posts made by the same company.

This also works, and you could some fuel tubing around it to prevent dents in the battery:

http://www.exotekracing.com/alloy-posts-18mm-blue-2/

Last edited by RCBuddha; 07-19-2015 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:42 AM
  #14572  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
I think maybe there isn't enough B5m pron on this thread lately, so let me share my rebuild. Carbon chassis build is complete along with new wiring. New paint is up next. Here is how the chassis layout ended up.
Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Did you sand and seal the carbon fiber?
Bueller... Bueller...Bueller...
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:03 AM
  #14573  
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sub'd. Ignore.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
the T5m bumper fits from what I hear. Its almost the same but a tad wider and protects the arms a tad too.
I just heard about this on Friday and the guy who told me about it had a T4.2.....I probably got that wrong. I still haven't bothered to check, He actually had the ST bumper on his buggy and it did seem to cover the front better which is important for us because our outdoor track is very rough. When I say that I got it wrong I mean to say it's the T4.2 bumper that's wider.

Last edited by QDRHRSE; 07-19-2015 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
I just heard about this on Friday and the guy who told me about it had a T4.2.....I probably got that wrong. I still haven't bothered to check, He actually had the ST bumper on his buggy and it did seem to cover the front better which is important for us because our outdoor track is very rough.
The B5m and T5m bumpers are the same part number. The only bumpers that fit that are wider are the RPM and AE B4/T4 bumpers.
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:38 PM
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The ball stud on my steering rack keeps backing out, would you recommend going with the aluminum or the plastic?
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Jade67
The ball stud on my steering rack keeps backing out, would you recommend going with the aluminum or the plastic?
The aluminum one is fine but remember that if you're prone to hitting the pipe or wall that puts you one step closer to damaging your servo each time you hit something hard...the aluminun rack does not give. If you have the aluminum bell cranks already you really put your servo at risk as the 5 series cars don't have a servo saver. Add an aluminum horn and I guarantee that your servos will not last long....
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jade67
The ball stud on my steering rack keeps backing out, would you recommend going with the aluminum or the plastic?
Make sure the steering link is not binding, verify it swivels freely on the ball studs. Give them a squeeze if not. Same as you would for the turnbuckles. Replace the plastic steering bellcrank if the hole is wallowed out. Use Loctite on the ballstud threads if using the aluminum bellcrank.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:43 PM
  #14579  
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Hello all, I ran a 22 2.0 last winter and am really considering going to the factory lite this winter. Can anyone give some honest pros and cons between the two and if I really should consider the switch being that I've always been content with the Losi. It's on medium/low traction indoor dirt. Thank you. And if buying the b5m, what is needed to make it optimal? Thank you.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:44 PM
  #14580  
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I will be running in Mod 2wd. Thanks again.
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