Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

12.3 rotors are fail in offroad imo

NWracer77

iTrader: (1)

I run a Reedy 17.5 at 40 degrees of timing...people ask if I have a mod motor in it. Coming off the track at 140 after 6 minutes, when I had it down to 35 degrees it was coming off at 110-120

I have a D4 in my other B5M lite and it runs like a raped ape but comes off at 180 ish....can't say that it's much faster than the Reedy tbh

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I agree 1000%.

I am disappointed in the on track performance of a new motor I picked up that came with a 12.3 rotor.

bizarrefish

ESC - Orion RC10.1 - Note I didn't select boost, it was out of the box but I knew I needed to dial quite a few settings down. I guess you could argue that by not dialing it down straight of the box I in effect selected boost :-).

I'll get a stock 17.5 and do some months of running under this, I'm taking up the hobby again as I have 3 & 2 year old sons that love watching SDRC practices already. When I get the inevitable kits in a couple of years time the 17.5 can be used by them.

Hey lesson learned guys and I've received great feedback that has improved my knowledge ten fold. Note, I did not just jump into this without research, it took me 6 months to hit the buy button and I have an evernote of 50 articles, spreadsheets of gear formula's etc. Just didn't do enough research I guess and had presumed veteran skill would help me a little. Just need to brush off the rust. Until I hit the clay I was never going to be able to measure the skill and speed.

Also you find that different sites and youtube videos have varying degrees of trust associated with them. I know some sources are less useful than others now.

Great community here when you raise a topic with enough heat for comments :-). I'm sitting here with a smile reading all of them.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

cool. make sure to set you esc to Forward/Brake Zero timing. ALso, I would install the "Stock" firmware. I prefer the "middle". the numbers are in a date format. I feel like it gives more power in 17.5 and the motor runs cooler. your esc came with the mod firmware, which is smoother, but a little slower IMO.

bizarrefish

Is it worth the change in firmware? ie purchase the programming box to do so if I was not going to run in stock races? (just asking)

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Probably find someone at the track with the box that can help.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

you can get a USB adapter for cheap from Hobbyking. How are you changing the settings without the box?


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...A_60A_ESC.html

bizarrefish

Using the set button next to the on switch to go through menu options and select settings. Relatively easy to go through. I'll check out the hobbyking cable though, thanks. It works unofficially on Orion ESC's?

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Don't worry about a firmware change. Buy the correct tires, turn boost off and get a slower motor and spin laps.

bizarrefish

Thanks Socket, do you think go all the way down to 17.5 or stay in mod class with a 13.5 perhaps? Trinity seems popular but was keeping Orion combo with initial purchase. Will commit to buying these evening I think..

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

trinity stock motors are fine. I like 13.5 because the whole weight thing and motor temp thing is less of an issue. No need for a motor fan and still good power for the track. I dont race at your track or have any idea on the turn out. If your track has a rookie 17.5 class that might be fun. If they have an A, B and C main in mod buggy with a wide range of talent, I would try a 13.5 in mod to keep costs down. If you just plan to practice and have fun and not race, definitely a 13.5. should be decent power for most jumps and again loser motor temps.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Buy a 17.5. You have a huge class of 17.5 racers locally that are super friendly and run your same combo. Pick whatever brand of 17.5 you'd like, it'll be just fine for right now.

Gold dirt webs and focus on putting in laps.

Fast Little Car

I just took the rotor out of my Team Powers Actinium 17.5 motor. It measured 12.5

If you don't know the facts, why did you post that comment about 12.3 rotors? You know that people read stuff on this forum and assume that we know what we are talking about, right?

Next time you need somthing measured, PM me and I'll bust out my calipers

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

From Amain

This is a Team Powers 17.5 Turn Actinium Competition Sensored Brushless Motor.

Features:
Variable End bell for easy timing changes to alter the output power and torque of the motor
Includes ROAR spec rotor
Updated neodymium sintered rotor and air flow convection system that can lower temperatures by 5~10'C
Easy assembly. Remove three screws to remove the rotor without the need to disassemble the end bell and sensor board
Thicker low resistance wire for more power

Specifications:
Design Specification: Based on IFMAR/ROAR/EFRA/BRCA
Motor Dimensions (Diameter x Length): 35.8x51mm
Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm
Magnet Dimensions (Diameter x Length): 12.3x24mm (10.5~17.5 turn)
Weight: 165g (5g lighter than the previous model)
Application: 1/10 car, buggy, truck
kV: 2200
This product was added to our catalog on January 19, 2015.