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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-30-2015, 05:35 AM
  #19741  
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Setup advice straight out of the F main
I found the most success with making adjustments to the front end. I started with everything completely box stock, and made my adjustments from there. I did my absolute best to stay as close to stock as I could, or just use options that came in the box. My reasoning for that, is that I wanted to say "the car is stock" if I happen to be doing well.

I drive on either 1 of 2 tracks/conditions. Both are super smooth, and med-somewhat high traction.

The changes I finally did go with were;

Green springs in Front
White springs in Rear
3x1.4 flat pistons up front
Lower the front roll center 2.5mm

I can put a setup sheet up later if you would like, but I know a few other guys that had the same mindset that I do, and they were kickin ACE! Granted, they were had tons more natural talent, or hand-eye coordination, but it is possible to do well with a stock setup. I was also running a 10.5 with timing.

Granted, I would sometimes come off the track with some spicy temps, but I just chalked that up to having a heavier car, and running a square pack.. (spicy temps = 165°F)

Hope this helps ya out some
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Old 03-30-2015, 03:46 PM
  #19742  
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Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken
The changes I finally did go with were;

Lower the front roll center 2.5mm
How in the world are you making changes where you can measure how high or low you are setting your roll center? How do you lower your roll center exactly 2.5mm?
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:27 PM
  #19743  
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Setup advice straight out of the F main
I don't know why, but this is post is f****** hilarious!
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:36 PM
  #19744  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
How in the world are you making changes where you can measure how high or low you are setting your roll center? How do you lower your roll center exactly 2.5mm?

Perhaps adding 2.5mm to ball studs?
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:41 PM
  #19745  
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Originally Posted by HBRob
Perhaps adding 2.5mm to ball studs?
That doesn't lower the roll center 2.5mm.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:00 PM
  #19746  
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When using the AE aluminum rear hubs, what's the trick positioning or tool for snapping the outer camber link ball cup onto the ball stud?

It was very difficult with needle nose pliers...
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:24 PM
  #19747  
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
When using the AE aluminum rear hubs, what's the trick positioning or tool for snapping the outer camber link ball cup onto the ball stud?

It was very difficult with needle nose pliers...
Use the built tools on you hand...fingers. Just snap it on.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:25 PM
  #19748  
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Take a 5.5mm driver and put it on the ball cup. Then push.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:25 PM
  #19749  
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sockets idea is better and the way I actually do mine
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:41 PM
  #19750  
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I use my "Man" hands. lol
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:28 PM
  #19751  
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I use a plumbing pliers. Open it to whatever's convenient to grab. Lots of control over it and very neat.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:42 PM
  #19752  
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
When using the AE aluminum rear hubs, what's the trick positioning or tool for snapping the outer camber link ball cup onto the ball stud?

It was very difficult with needle nose pliers...
Just use your hands.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:43 PM
  #19753  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
That doesn't lower the roll center 2.5mm.
technically, since it's the only way you can actually measure the roll center, he is correct.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:58 PM
  #19754  
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Man hands hey? ...

Thanks for the nut driver idea Socket, I'll give that a shot next time.
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:18 PM
  #19755  
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Originally Posted by shannow
I use a plumbing pliers. Open it to whatever's convenient to grab. Lots of control over it and very neat.
+1 I use channel locks or sometimes a big C clamp. Anything that can give you pressure on it straight down vs. at an angle like needle-nose
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