Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree137Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-23-2015, 02:26 PM
  #19561  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
 
Krio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Posts: 5,718
Trader Rating: 159 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by explorerlyon
My son is moving out of rookie where he has been racing a short course truck. Looking to buy a B5M for him to race in sportsman stock. The latest, greatest lightest buggy won't make much difference until he increases his skills. I am looking for durability.

I am looking at a new B5M Lite or several of the used B5Ms on the sale forms. What upgrades are NEEDED for someone coming out of rookie to become competitive and have durability. A new B5M lite is $280 v some of the used rollers with lots of upgrades for $350+. I just don't know what upgrades are necessary for an intermediate racer. Mainly racing indoor clay with high bite.
For durability, all you really need is an aluminum rear ball stud mount, titanium turnbuckles (brand of choice), possibly a front aluminum hinge pin brace, and to make sure there aren't any 'hard' plastic parts installed.
Krio is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:08 PM
  #19562  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Front hinge pin brace is just bling.
Socket is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:40 PM
  #19563  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lbckevin
You will just need a gear case and two bearings. You can use your motor plate and countersink it on the other side. It should be around 15 bucks. If you buy the 4 gear motor plate it is about $25
Kevin, the top shaft is different as well.
Socket is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:54 PM
  #19564  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 6,272
Trader Rating: 170 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Socket
Kevin, the top shaft is different as well.
True...but once the truck comes out the new 4-gear case will utilize the same top shaft as the 3 gear.
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:57 PM
  #19565  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 6,272
Trader Rating: 170 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Socket
Front hinge pin brace is just bling.
someone likes his bling...
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-10885031_10205517732765398_17808003199633010_n.jpg  
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:58 PM
  #19566  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (4)
 
smoothunit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 31
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tommy R
I can't speak for smoothunit, but mine did not.
Mine did (used in between bearings) but I lost them when the screws popped out. Locktite seems to have fixed the issue for me.
smoothunit is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 04:05 PM
  #19567  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
someone likes his bling...
I have the MIP transmission. My opinion about bling is well known.
Socket is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 04:14 PM
  #19568  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 590
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Opinions regarding milled chassis

Need a new chassis and would like to hear the latest regarding milled chassis race results. I run blinky 17.5 class and am at 1548 grams. Tried lighter shorty battery at 1490 grams and car did not handle well. I had dropped the ride height to 22 vs 23.5 (what I normally run). Also run 2.4's as 2.2's make it feel slow. Also battery issues with 2.2's toward the end of a 7 minute main. Wondering if a milled chassis would maintain handling vs lighter battery since weight is being distributed throughout the car vs just the battery compartment. Looking forward to the input. Thanks
Micah123 is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 04:54 PM
  #19569  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 430
Default

Did you lighten your shock package at all?
lee111m is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 05:05 PM
  #19570  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

If you're having battery issues after 7 minutes, then I'd say you have a much larger issue than weight.
Socket is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 05:44 PM
  #19571  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 590
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Kept the shock oil the same...32.5/30. Springs 1.4 three hole front and 1.6 two hole rear. Grays front and whites in the rear. Current layout has a triple that eats up lots of folks towards the end of a 7 minute main. Eventually, cost me several positions as I had to revert to single/double. Batteries are probably getting tired and need to be replaced but I heard from majority of others that they were feeling it on the triple as well. Anyone who has a milled chassis feel free to chime in. Thanks again.
Micah123 is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 06:11 PM
  #19572  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 4,595
Trader Rating: 166 (100%+)
Default

Sold the Cougar since my local track is pretty beat up and picked up a new b5m kit since it was on sale. Other then throwing a three year transmission and the aluminum rear camber link, I don't think I will do any more "upgrades" trying to keep it light with a lightweight Orion 17.5 motor in the rear and using The TLR aluminum drive shafts from an old 22 I have. Should I really bother doing anything else?.
jpcopeland1 is offline  
Old 03-24-2015, 01:57 AM
  #19573  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
 
wayboarder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 866
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Micah123
Kept the shock oil the same...32.5/30. Springs 1.4 three hole front and 1.6 two hole rear. Grays front and whites in the rear. Current layout has a triple that eats up lots of folks towards the end of a 7 minute main. Eventually, cost me several positions as I had to revert to single/double. Batteries are probably getting tired and need to be replaced but I heard from majority of others that they were feeling it on the triple as well. Anyone who has a milled chassis feel free to chime in. Thanks again.
SLRC chassis. Best money you will spend on the buggy short of MIP pucks of course if your running stock.
wayboarder is offline  
Old 03-24-2015, 07:45 AM
  #19574  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
gooba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: grimes,ia
Posts: 471
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Socket
If you're having battery issues after 7 minutes, then I'd say you have a much larger issue than weight.
+1
My car is 1544g and I can EASILY run 10+ minutes at full tilt with a 4200shorty. Either your timing and gearing are maxed beyond the limit or you have a bind issue.
gooba is offline  
Old 03-24-2015, 07:56 AM
  #19575  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
 
Tommy R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 641
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gooba
+1
My car is 1544g and I can EASILY run 10+ minutes at full tilt with a 4200shorty. Either your timing and gearing are maxed beyond the limit or you have a bind issue.
Maybe he's referring to just a loss of punch, as opposed to the battery merely lasting the duration of the race? I don't know either way, but just pointing out another possibility.

For the track I run at, my car is pretty good clearing a particular jump earlier in the race, but as it wears on I lose just enough punch that that same jump gets more and more risky due to the slight decrease in power. Maybe that's similar to what the OP was experiencing?
Tommy R is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.