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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:37 PM
  #19531  
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any idea how much the light version will cost?
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:48 PM
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AE shows it for 279 on their site
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:34 PM
  #19533  
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Default need to turn sharper

Hey guys I was at the track with my b5m today and it wasn't turning as much as I wanted it to, is there any suggestions on how to get it to turn sharper?
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:48 PM
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Heavier springs in the rear is one way.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:53 PM
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Was about to order all the alunimum goodies, but then got thinking.. Are they really needed for the lite car?

Was getting:
Hubs
Steering Rack
Arm Mounts
Front Hinge Pins

Was thinking of just getting the Arm mounts instead now. Saved me about $100.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:03 PM
  #19536  
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Default spindles

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
There are only 2 things I dont like about this car and AE is fixing one of them. It's weight and the front spindles. Cain, I have a fiend selling a B5M also
whats wrong with the spindles? Are lots of guys running kyosho springs or low freq losi ones? if so what are the hot spring combos to try? I hear kyosho gold front and rear!
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:16 PM
  #19537  
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Originally Posted by bigdaddyquale
whats wrong with the spindles? Are lots of guys running kyosho springs or low freq losi ones? if so what are the hot spring combos to try? I hear kyosho gold front and rear!
Bearing get gritty because the inserts dont align correctly.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:41 PM
  #19538  
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Default B5m Lite to B5m Conversion

Hey guys, if I have a B5m Lite and I want to convert it to the 4 gears B5m, anyone knows what are the part needed and approximately how much they cost? Thanks!


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
this is the way I look at it. The Lite comes with Ti turnbuckles, alum rear camber block, alum top shaft, FT bearings, 2 pad slipper (not great) and alum front axles. Plus the new chassis of course. From an economics stand point, buying the 4 gear parts is pretty cheap. "If" you really dont want the lite chassis....sell it on ebay and buy the heavier chassis. because that chassis WILL be in demand and will sell for top dollar. When you go indoors and race on carpet, you might want that 3 gear for tuning. You can always try the MM outdoors. Worst case, it sucks and you convert to rear. And use the MM for carpet season.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:47 PM
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https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hp...f6&oe=55B243EC

So on this, did they just cut out a hole in the waterfall, and shoegoo it in?

Thats just the LPR fan that comes with the ESC isn't it?
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gabc
Hey guys, if I have a B5m Lite and I want to convert it to the 4 gears B5m, anyone knows what are the part needed and approximately how much they cost? Thanks!
You will just need a gear case and two bearings. You can use your motor plate and countersink it on the other side. It should be around 15 bucks. If you buy the 4 gear motor plate it is about $25
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:52 PM
  #19541  
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Originally Posted by otter
Hi Tommy,

It uses a standard 30mm fan (outside dimension of fan body). I'll add a note to the diagram -- good input. Thanks for ordering a brace!

Thanks,
Erik of Erik's Parts.
Excellent! Thanks, Erik! Looking forward to my new fan mount.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:54 PM
  #19542  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hp...f6&oe=55B243EC

So on this, did they just cut out a hole in the waterfall, and shoegoo it in?

Thats just the LPR fan that comes with the ESC isn't it?
Yes. Not shoegoo but a 2 part epoxy.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:59 PM
  #19543  
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Hey folks, got another question...

This past week I was racing my B5M for the first time. I bought it used and it included (among other things) the AE aluminum steering rack. This guy:


Well, the two buttonhead screws that come up from underneath (through the plastic steering rack) backed out. So I installed some replacement screws, but as you might suspect as I tightened the screws down, the steering got bound up. I came up with a make shift solution using a small washer on the outside and some Loctite on the threads, but I'm wondering if I lost some parts when the screws backed out.

What is the preferred method to secure the steering rack to the bellcranks without inducing any bind?

Any help would be much appreciated!
Tommy
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:11 PM
  #19544  
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http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10B5M/

I'd suggest consulting the manual to make sure you have the necessary parts for the steering rack.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:18 PM
  #19545  
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Originally Posted by air8
http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10B5M/

I'd suggest consulting the manual to make sure you have the necessary parts for the steering rack.
Thanks, but I had the manual with me (and also know where it is online), but saw nothing I was missing. Keep in mind the stock bellcranks are plastic so you can back off just a bit on the screws and the plastic would still likely securely hold the screws. Not the same case with the aluminum bellcranks I'm running.

So what are those of you with aluminum bellcranks doing to address this?

Thanks in advance!
Tommy
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