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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 02-27-2015, 09:05 AM
  #18946  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Can you please publish these statics, all of the pertinent information about your testing process and the sample size haha. I hate hate hate hate hate the AE plastic horns. When I use plastic, I use the tlr horn. When I use aluminum, I use the tlr horn Also, none of my servos have ever failed do to the alum servo horn. So that mean they never ever break servos. I like my statisics better.
Good enough for me
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Old 02-27-2015, 09:38 AM
  #18947  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
But 5 times as dangerous to the servo
Or don't drive like a potato and stop hitting things @WOT
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Old 02-27-2015, 10:26 AM
  #18948  
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http://www.losipartshouse.com/MIP-Al...p/mip14300.htm

Ordered mine
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Old 02-27-2015, 10:50 AM
  #18949  
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Originally Posted by Socket
You are a losi fan boy, dont pretend FYI, they are out of stock, maybe you bought the last one
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:29 AM
  #18950  
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Originally Posted by Socket
Why?
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:35 AM
  #18951  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Can you please publish these statics, all of the pertinent information about your testing process and the sample size haha. I hate hate hate hate hate the AE plastic horns. When I use plastic, I use the tlr horn. When I use aluminum, I use the tlr horn Also, none of my servos have ever failed do to the alum servo horn. So that mean they never ever break servos. I like my statisics better.
What in the heck are you hitting that would strip the plastic AE horn with the aluminum ring on it!?! My 5yr old can't even strip them
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Old 02-27-2015, 11:40 AM
  #18952  
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Originally Posted by racer_rick
Anyone have suggestions on my B5m with traction rolling. My local track has a high speed chicane. I am running handlebar fronts with dirt tech inserts and chainlink rears with aka red inserts. It seems when i enter the chicane the front tires sidewall is flexing and im hitting the rim. Any suggestions on keeping this from happening. and different foams I can run?
Originally Posted by mschumi101
That sounds a little extreme... Especially since the dirt tech inserts are some of the best. To verify if that is actually the case (rim hitting dirt) find someone with an iPhone 6 to take some slo-mo video of the car in that corner to verify your hypothesis.
Originally Posted by racer_rick
I hear what you are saying.. I will use a gopro to verify but with the amount of clay stuck to the outside of the rim after rolling I think it is a fair assessment
.
There isn't a track in WI with enough traction to result in rolling the tire far enough for the rim to hit the track. Especially with a Handlebar. Bust out your GoPro, I wanna see it.
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:04 PM
  #18953  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
What in the heck are you hitting that would strip the plastic AE horn with the aluminum ring on it!?! My 5yr old can't even strip them
The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out. I hate the AE plastic arms because they ....suck to put on and take off. I have to pry the .... out of them to get them off and hammer them on. They just dont feel like the servo splines and the spines in the more match up well. The TLR plastic horn slides right on, some locktite on the screw and good to go.

Last edited by Cpt.America; 02-27-2015 at 01:21 PM. Reason: language
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:27 PM
  #18954  
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wow...

Never stripped one stock Associated servo horn in the past 12 years. I never need to take it off really either. I run the Ko RSX response servos and not one problem.
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:53 PM
  #18955  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out. I hate the AE plastic arms because they fing suck to put on and take off. I have to pry the shit out of them to get them off and hammer them on. They just dont feel like the servo splines and the spines in the more match up well. The TLR plastic horn slides right on, some locktite on the screw and good to go.
If that's your experience and opinion I'm not going to debate it with you. You're certainly entitled and I respect that. But I can't say it's normal or common place either. I've seen very few, if any, issues with the stock AE horns.


fyi, I try to keep TLR parts OFF my AE rides............
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:24 PM
  #18956  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
The ball just starts to strip out the plastic after a bit. And the ballstud comes out.
Only happens if you over tighten it when first threading it in. You are probably ruining the threads day one. I have never seen this happen in an absolute SEA of AE 1/10th buggies over the last 5 years. Heck, even my wife learned to drive in a B4, and could crash like nobodies business, and still never saw this. Heck, most novice crashers I have ever witnessed over the last countless years all started in B4s or SC10s... never seen this. Odds are even lower in a B5. B5 plastics, even the horns, are fantastic.

(and watch the language please)
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:30 PM
  #18957  
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or the drag link is bound up working the ballstud in and out..
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:39 PM
  #18958  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
many of the changes I have made in the last 10 months may not have effected my hot lap much, but it did make the car easier to drive and thus most consistent and I make less errors. And yes the kit setup is not bad. When the car is "twitchy", that normally means the wrong tires or the shock package is too soft and the car is pitching all over the place. IMO, the gulwings can give the car a feel of twitchyness. When I use gulwings, I normally go up in springs and oil in the front to calm it down. But yes, tritchy is normally a tuning/tire issue with the B5 series.
What I ment by twitchy is way to sensitive to my radios input but what you have said is very helpful thanks to all the help on this thread guys
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:18 PM
  #18959  
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
I think XP is Futaba 25T.
Yes 25 tooth.
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:20 PM
  #18960  
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I broke a servo horn on my rc10t2.
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