54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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02-04-2015, 11:44 AM
Spot on!
Yep, I get that 1.4s would help with low speed steering. When I ran 1.4s my car was diving too much and traction rolling. Sure if I went way up in oils and stuff i could probably get them to work. For me running slicks, it is 90% all about the foams, once you put clay slicks on the car. Once the rear foams are gone, the car wont turn no mater what you do, lol. We have 180s into jumps, so I like my car to square up faster. Thus, why my car is the way it is. On the upside, most people that drive my car really like it. Some guys like a much looser car. You know, the whole loose is fast thing. I prefer forgiving and able to drive it hard.
as for the guy asking for a shock package for jumping and bouncing. There are soooo many factors. How you land the car maters a lot. I saw Spencer Rivkin way way way over jumping at a club race, and his car always landed like it was on pillows. I asked him about his shock package, and his was pretty much the same as mine. When I watch more carefully, I noticed he liked to "whip" the car in the air. And when he landed, he likes the left front wheel to land first. I was playing around with this and other ways of pitching the car, and you can greatly effect how it lands and takes off. From my experience, I always try to get the front wheels down first. And of course down-siding is always preferred.
as for the guy asking for a shock package for jumping and bouncing. There are soooo many factors. How you land the car maters a lot. I saw Spencer Rivkin way way way over jumping at a club race, and his car always landed like it was on pillows. I asked him about his shock package, and his was pretty much the same as mine. When I watch more carefully, I noticed he liked to "whip" the car in the air. And when he landed, he likes the left front wheel to land first. I was playing around with this and other ways of pitching the car, and you can greatly effect how it lands and takes off. From my experience, I always try to get the front wheels down first. And of course down-siding is always preferred.
02-04-2015, 03:38 PM
iam back on line just got the 3 gear box at a main time to swap
02-04-2015, 06:45 PM
You guys running 3x1.4 30wt is it stock or mod?.....what springs?
I run 2x1.6 30wt white springs when the track is smooth....
when track is bumpy I'll run 2x1.7 32.5 green springs...
intrested to see what the 3x1.4 would do..
I run 2x1.6 30wt white springs when the track is smooth....
when track is bumpy I'll run 2x1.7 32.5 green springs...
intrested to see what the 3x1.4 would do..
02-04-2015, 07:49 PM
1.4 x 3s in the rear.
Alan
02-04-2015, 08:32 PM
02-04-2015, 08:45 PM
Well looks like I will give the 3X1.4's a go. My set up has been getting worse and worse every week, so i decided to tear everything apart, rebuild all four shocks, diff, plastics, and even throw some Alum. and lightweight goodies on there and start over.. I've been wanting to try out a different spring/piston/oil, figured I might as well try it now. Thanks for the suggestions on the pistons. I will giver her a try
02-04-2015, 10:24 PM
02-05-2015, 12:36 AM
sorry for off topic, I use different batteries in my B5M for stock racing and can't remember the last time I checked their IR so thought I would ask. We were discussing Reedy and Orion batteries a few pages back and their performance in a B5M and I shot off topic.
Socket thanks for info.
I moved from a front at 1.6 at 32 to a 1.4 at 32 with grey and have the rear at 1.6 green tonight in stock, felt pretty good. My son ran the old B4.2 bumper which looked huge now a days, but looks to protect much better. Now is that back on topic
.
Socket thanks for info.
I moved from a front at 1.6 at 32 to a 1.4 at 32 with grey and have the rear at 1.6 green tonight in stock, felt pretty good. My son ran the old B4.2 bumper which looked huge now a days, but looks to protect much better. Now is that back on topic
.
02-05-2015, 05:51 AM
Has anyone tried the MIP bypass kit in their shocks? Just put them in last week, to give me a bit faster rebound (valve on top of piston) and really did not notice too much of a difference. My theory was to get it to transfer quicker from side to side when running through an S section. Anyone try this, and if so , suggestions or thoughts?
02-05-2015, 06:07 AM
sorry for off topic, I use different batteries in my B5M for stock racing and can't remember the last time I checked their IR so thought I would ask. We were discussing Reedy and Orion batteries a few pages back and their performance in a B5M and I shot off topic.
Socket thanks for info.
I moved from a front at 1.6 at 32 to a 1.4 at 32 with grey and have the rear at 1.6 green tonight in stock, felt pretty good. My son ran the old B4.2 bumper which looked huge now a days, but looks to protect much better. Now is that back on topic.
Socket thanks for info.
I moved from a front at 1.6 at 32 to a 1.4 at 32 with grey and have the rear at 1.6 green tonight in stock, felt pretty good. My son ran the old B4.2 bumper which looked huge now a days, but looks to protect much better. Now is that back on topic
.
02-05-2015, 06:34 AM
A buddy of mine was asking me the same thing. I put his batteries on my charger to check the IR. They all read like 8-10. He bought a couple new packs that read around 3-4. He said their was a noticeable difference in 17.5 buggy over his old packs.
02-05-2015, 06:49 AM
well...depends on what you are using to check the IR. Different tools will read differently. If you track you packs from the time they are new, you can trend their IR. For instance, if they started out at 2 for the pack and not they are 8, that could imply that it is time to sell. Locally most everyone is using the icharger 406b. Thus, we can compare numbers from different packs and what not. On my 406b, I would prefer my race packs to be under 3. But currently, they are around 4 to 4.5. Since my battery vendor went out of business, I am on the hunt for a good replacement pack. And please dont say SMC, their number are not very good and get worse quickly.
A buddy of mine was asking me the same thing. I put his batteries on my charger to check the IR. They all read like 8-10. He bought a couple new packs that read around 3-4. He said their was a noticeable difference in 17.5 buggy over his old packs.
A buddy of mine was asking me the same thing. I put his batteries on my charger to check the IR. They all read like 8-10. He bought a couple new packs that read around 3-4. He said their was a noticeable difference in 17.5 buggy over his old packs.
02-05-2015, 06:51 AM
Here's a link to it:
http://www.progressiverc.com/icharger-406duo.html
02-05-2015, 08:19 AM
Anybody have an idea of when the B5M Lite will be available?
I originally got the B5 RM because our track was generally lower traction, but has gotten quite a bit better recently so I'm thinking about switching to the B5M. What setup changes should I be looking at going from the RM to MM? I got the RM used and the setup felt great to me so I've never even messed with it.
I originally got the B5 RM because our track was generally lower traction, but has gotten quite a bit better recently so I'm thinking about switching to the B5M. What setup changes should I be looking at going from the RM to MM? I got the RM used and the setup felt great to me so I've never even messed with it.
02-05-2015, 08:21 AM
Has anyone tried the MIP bypass kit in their shocks? Just put them in last week, to give me a bit faster rebound (valve on top of piston) and really did not notice too much of a difference. My theory was to get it to transfer quicker from side to side when running through an S section. Anyone try this, and if so , suggestions or thoughts?