Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Sorry I'm late with these...
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/jconcep...ng-bellcranks/
JConcepts has the steering system on the B5, B5M and T5M covered with an all new light-weight, aluminium steering bellcrank assembly. The servo saver-less aluminium steering system is CNC-machined and replaces the stock plastic bellcranks to provide a more rigid assembly for increased steering feel and response. Furthermore the fit of the new bell-cranks has been improved by the positioning of the bearings to help eliminate binding when assembled. The parts come in a blue or black anodised finish and sport machined chamfered silver edges and engraved JC logos. The steering bell-cranks also include two thin crush tubes which should be placed in between the bearings on the stock plastic or aftermarket aluminium steering rack.
I was programming my ESC tonight and had the rear wheels off... Testing the throttle, I noticed the slightest little "bump" in the rear dog-bone on the right side... I am talking very small, but the other side is perfect.
My question is are the dog-bones perfectly straight or do they have a tolerance to be slightly out?
When the RPM increases it seems like the "bump" goes away, and there and no vibrations or anything like that.
What are the risks of running a slightly bent one... I dont think it is bent, that is how minor it is, but it is not perfect like the other side.
Thanks!
My question is are the dog-bones perfectly straight or do they have a tolerance to be slightly out?
When the RPM increases it seems like the "bump" goes away, and there and no vibrations or anything like that.
What are the risks of running a slightly bent one... I dont think it is bent, that is how minor it is, but it is not perfect like the other side.
Thanks!
Aluminum rack, ball studs tight, glue trail inserts (hard, also, make sure you install the bearings and axle with the inserts already in the steering block and then just run some glue along the seam without getting it into the bearing or you'll have alignment issues with the bearings), glue caster inserts (hard).
And of course, the big news today....
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/team-as...tory-lite-kit/
Team Associated introduce the B5M Factory Lite, a special version of the B5M that would optimise the platform to excel in classes requiring spec motors and for certain track conditions that allow the racer to take full advantage of the performance offered from reduced weight. Shedding over 75 grams of weight, the B5M Factory Lite includes a 3-gear transmission for lower rotational mass, a lightened hard-anodised aluminium chassis, titanium turnbuckles, and aluminium front axles.
Features
– Lightweight, hard-anodised aluminium chassis with centralised mass and mid-motor position for improved handling on high-grip offroad tracks
– Chassis fits R.O.A.R.-approved 2S saddle packs and 2S short packs using optional foam insert
– V2 12mm “Big Bore” threaded aluminium shocks with 3mm shafts and updated O-rings for improved smoothness
– Aluminium rear ball stud mount for added strength
– New 3-gear transmission for lower rotating mass and extra acceleration, with lightweight V2 aluminium top shaft included
– Heavy-duty rear axle for added strength
– Lightweight aluminium front axle/hex adapter and larger front wheel bearing for added durability
– Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit and titanium turnbuckles included
– Aluminium rear clamping hex with laser etching
– Heavy-duty ball cups and ball studs allow for maximum suspension travel while reducing binding and friction
– Rear hubs feature larger bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear toe-in
– Team Associated B5M clear body and wing included
– Lightweight, hard-anodised aluminium chassis with centralised mass and mid-motor position for improved handling on high-grip offroad tracks
– Chassis fits R.O.A.R.-approved 2S saddle packs and 2S short packs using optional foam insert
– V2 12mm “Big Bore” threaded aluminium shocks with 3mm shafts and updated O-rings for improved smoothness
– Aluminium rear ball stud mount for added strength
– New 3-gear transmission for lower rotating mass and extra acceleration, with lightweight V2 aluminium top shaft included
– Heavy-duty rear axle for added strength
– Lightweight aluminium front axle/hex adapter and larger front wheel bearing for added durability
– Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit and titanium turnbuckles included
– Aluminium rear clamping hex with laser etching
– Heavy-duty ball cups and ball studs allow for maximum suspension travel while reducing binding and friction
– Rear hubs feature larger bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear toe-in
– Team Associated B5M clear body and wing included
Do you guys still want me to post stuff from REDRC on here? Not sure if you guys find it redundant or useful.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
I like seeing the red RC updates. Sometimes I cannot check that site for weeks at a time. But I can usually log on here at least once or twice a day.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Updated shock setting for new car., 1.6 flats all around but still sticking with 32.5 oil in all 4. Nice titanium and alum. parts. Maybe we will see a running change on front bearings and axle set-up, the screw holding axle is not great, AE or JC titanium clamping setup is better with no screw. I like the new picture for choosing spring perch .
Build a lite car and new thing will be putting gull wings and 4 gear tranny, LOL. Love the new stuff, keeps it interesting.
Build a lite car and new thing will be putting gull wings and 4 gear tranny, LOL. Love the new stuff, keeps it interesting.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I like the pictures Budda.
On the battery thing, charging and discharging at ridiculous levels is growing. I charge at 12 amps and my son at 10, we don't cycle, and flash charge, if we were second every race then we would . Batteries are ambient temp when the come off. People are icharging, cycling two times between quals, at 20discharge and 40charge, batteries are coming off hot, charging to 8.48 and 17.5s are tripling jumps. It is the next thing to get tech'd. Big races, one battery for the weekend then toss it. Something I want to try but hard to have my kid in range of a 40 amp charge when battery companies says injury or fatality could occur if charged above 2c level. But when your racing all weekend it is hard to pass up "the juice".
On the battery thing, charging and discharging at ridiculous levels is growing. I charge at 12 amps and my son at 10, we don't cycle, and flash charge, if we were second every race then we would . Batteries are ambient temp when the come off. People are icharging, cycling two times between quals, at 20discharge and 40charge, batteries are coming off hot, charging to 8.48 and 17.5s are tripling jumps. It is the next thing to get tech'd. Big races, one battery for the weekend then toss it. Something I want to try but hard to have my kid in range of a 40 amp charge when battery companies says injury or fatality could occur if charged above 2c level. But when your racing all weekend it is hard to pass up "the juice".
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Add...Two years ago when I got into this, I remember watching videos and safety stuff on Lipos because I grew up on old stuff in my TQ10 and didn't want to burn down the house. It was about charge levels and 1c is good.....Two years later 40 amps baby to a 4100 Mah battery in a B5m at 1499 grams......with a wwee little 17.5 stocker. Funny Sh:"/$.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
I wish that this ft buggy came out a year ago haha especially for the price tag!
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
also, anyone who's running the reedy black box: is there a way to change drag brake without having a program box? i'm running profile 2 but wanted to decrease the drag brake a little. also is it worth buying the program box for it?
Without going through the 700+ pages here. I'm new to the off road cars have the B5M runningstock as the aassembly manual stated. Running 17.5 on highbite track need more on power steering. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.