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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 01-17-2015, 02:44 PM
  #17371  
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Originally Posted by jerzi
Is this an add or??
Do you sell these??
What is the cost of one??
Strange you can have this here because this is an forum that you cant sell anything here.
If i put an pic of an carbon part that I have done so i get an wRning from this forum.
Lets see what the moderators will say about this??
Jerzi
He can post this here because its his forum and those are not his parts. He posts all aftermarket pieces for the B5M on here (from major companies)
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:48 PM
  #17372  
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Originally Posted by dbowen
Ok sorry they say "Less overall wear on drive components" but that is deff not the case for me I got over 6 months of use out of my OEM dog bones and out drives running an 8.5 motor (which if I was running stock they would prob STILL be good a year later) and I regrease mine every time I replace them which again is every 10 or so packs which I run 2-4 times a week so it could be every 2 times at the track. So I need to regrease them every other run or so?
$tock Cla$$. Instead of buying 89 dollar motor to go faster everybody looking to make 17.5 faster with all this $tuff.....we so crazy drinking all the kool aid ....but damn it's fun.
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:10 PM
  #17373  
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Originally Posted by Cridd
$tock Cla$$. Instead of buying 89 dollar motor to go faster everybody looking to make 17.5 faster with all this $tuff.....we so crazy drinking all the kool aid ....but damn it's fun.
I don't understand the stock class - let's spend more $$ to be the fastest guy at being slow...
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:45 PM
  #17374  
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Originally Posted by StadiumRC
I don't understand the stock class - let's spend more $$ to be the fastest guy at being slow...
You don't understand it, which is fine.

Driving ability in 17.5 reigns supreme for most. A fast motor is just a nice thing to have. If you hit pipes a ton, it won't matter what motor you have.
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:51 PM
  #17375  
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Originally Posted by Socket
You don't understand it, which is fine.

Driving ability in 17.5 reigns supreme for most. A fast motor is just a nice thing to have. If you hit pipes a ton, it won't matter what motor you have.
Pretty much same with modified. Except you dont have to spend an extra $200 to get all the super trick lightweight parts to be competitive
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Old 01-17-2015, 09:41 PM
  #17376  
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
Anyone try cavalieri's crcrc newest setup yet? Any thoughts or comments? thanks
different from his past set ups, 1.4's in the rear, a few different hard parts.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:11 PM
  #17377  
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
Anyone try cavalieri's crcrc newest setup yet? Any thoughts or comments? thanks
Is he running the MM arms, or the RM arms for this setup?
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:15 PM
  #17378  
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Originally Posted by billdogg
What do you oil on the pucks?
I use light bearing oil. Just a drop that i spread around, and make sure to dab off excess.

Originally Posted by dbowen
So I need to regrease them every other run or so?
I woudlnt' think so. I clean, wipe down, and re-oil both the puck and the inside of the outdrive twice per race day, and I think that might be excessive. I would think once every 4 or 5 packs would be plenty.. again, depending on how dirty your car gets from your track. Our cars say super clean.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:25 PM
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On Cavs set up, I think rm arms, what is the best way to measure toe. I usually just eye it but to get 1/4 * what is the best way to do that ?
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:34 PM
  #17380  
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You guys are funny. boohoo lightweight this and lightweight that, stock is so expensive boohoo. A decent motor and the right tires and some driving skill are all u need to run ANY class sure a few upgrades help but they aren't required. We have a pair of local guys that run original rc10s in stock and finish top 5 everytime against 20yr newer cars. Makes me laugh my butt off watching a 6 gear aluminum tub car spank guys with brand new cars with every hopup known.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:57 PM
  #17381  
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Does anyone have any experience with the aluminum diff gear? How does the diff feel and does it wear your diff balls quicker?
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:29 PM
  #17382  
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Originally Posted by gooba
You guys are funny. boohoo lightweight this and lightweight that, stock is so expensive boohoo. A decent motor and the right tires and some driving skill are all u need to run ANY class sure a few upgrades help but they aren't required. We have a pair of local guys that run original rc10s in stock and finish top 5 everytime against 20yr newer cars. Makes me laugh my butt off watching a 6 gear aluminum tub car spank guys with brand new cars with every hopup known.
That just means they are decent drivers against guys that can't drive. Put them in a race with people of the same skill level and new cars with all the best stuff, they will get smoked.

Talent beats equipment, but if talented guys have the equipment too (which they usually do) then you need both to compete.
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:35 PM
  #17383  
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Oh grief, what am I about to do here...

Originally Posted by Socket
You don't understand it, which is fine.

Driving ability in 17.5 reigns supreme for most. A fast motor is just a nice thing to have. If you hit pipes a ton, it won't matter what motor you have.
Originally Posted by Jack Smash
Pretty much same with modified. Except you dont have to spend an extra $200 to get all the super trick lightweight parts to be competitive
You don't even need the trick lightweight parts. If you have the skill to be at the top of mod, then you can throw any old properly geared 17.5 motor from the last two years in your car and clean up in stock, even with a beefcake car. At least that's been my experience: The reason people run stock is because they can't be as competitive in mod... period.

Driving ability doesn't reign supreme in stock. Differences in driving ability of those who remain in stock reigns supreme. There's an important difference, and that is that the people with the supreme driving ability are at the top of the mod classes, not stock. It takes exponentially more skill to drive mod fast than it does to drive stock fast, and the main reason for that is because the cars are actually going fast, the setups really matter, and the differences between good and great drivers really show up.

Whenever a stock guy asks me to drive his car and offer opinions on their car, my response is almost always the same: "Seems fine." I may point out some small thing they could change, but in reality, unless their car is a complete pile of crap, I adapt to it pretty quick and I'm off click'n off good laps. If they ask detailed setup questions like "oh I was going to try X and Y", I struggle to put it nicely, and I really am trying to be the right combination of honest and "not a dick", but it boils down to this: It really doesn't matter on the small stuff. Big stuff, sure... right tires, a setup that isn't completely broke, correct ride height, decent maintenance... but when it comes down to "should I run a 3x1.4 or 1.6 piston in the rear?" It doesn't really matter—it's totally personal preference. The car's just not going fast enough to really work the suspension that hard. The hardest the suspension works is when their car fails to clear a jump and gets it's bones rocked, and that's a roll of the dice.

If the fast mod guys step down to stock, and yes, down is the right word, people complain and moan about it. I've seen it happen. If somebody gets untouchable in stock, people start asking when they're going to "go mod" since they're so fast. So what you're left with is a group of racers that are all similarly matched for skill with a limited top speed. What do you do to get an advantage? You drop money on the best possible motor and electronics that pass tech and the lightest possible car. Then when people ask about the stock class, you provide the standard response about "less about speed and more about driving," even though it takes way more driving and setup skill to compete in the mod classes at the pace they're running. And that's the stock game in a nut shell.

Modern day offroad stock is a SPORTSMAN class. Some will admit it, some will not. Back in the 90s, the fast guys ran stock and the mod class was for goofs with too much power and not enough self control. The kicker is that STOCK OFFROAD is fun as hell. It's competitive. It's a blast. Don't knock it. I keep a 17.5 motor around just in case. Just be honest about what it is.

Wayne
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:39 PM
  #17384  
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Damn!

Only stock class at the track I run and people make such a fuss about modded trucks being too fast on the straight (small track). But the 17.5's put down more consistent laps because they don't have to control their throttle as much. Sometimes we can slip into a club race but usually someone is complaining.

Last edited by SUKKAFISH; 01-17-2015 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:03 AM
  #17385  
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Originally Posted by SUKKAFISH
Damn!

Only stock class at the track I run and people make such a fuss about modded trucks being too fast on the straight (small track). But the 17.5's put down more consistent laps because they don't have to control their throttle as much. Sometimes we can slip into a club race but usually someone is complaining.
At our track, we have a solid set of normal 2wd 17.5, 2wd mod, and 4wd mod racers. Not all of the mod guys are fast, especially in 4wd. None of the fast guys are currently running mod truck, but 2 years back all of us got got stadium trucks and had a good 2-3 months of super competitive mod truck. Then it just disappeared, like tear drops... in the rain.

Wayne
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