Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Aluminum pieces often do not weigh more than their plastic counterparts.

sstriano

iTrader: (14)

I read through the soldering threads but was just wondering if anyone has some input on this. I bought some 0.050 63/37 rosin core Radio Shack solder and a bottle of liquid rosin flux from the local electronic store but its RA not RMA flux. Will this work for soldering bullet ends and the ESC wires to the motor? Not real familiar with soldering. Thanks.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I would assume if these saved even a gram of weight, it'd be all over the advertisement.

Edit:

1.3g each. Minimum Weight, Maximum Durability.

What do the stock spring caps weigh?

customss

iTrader: (20)

need a little more rear grip, new to offroad but not racing, running kit setup on tight indoor clay track. Tires of choice are super softs or m4 compound, have tried different compounds and inserts but the rear of the car is a bit to free to really push the car. I have managed to tq and win the last 2 races out of the3 i have entered. i removed the ft 2mm spacers under the ball studs looking for more grip. What would be the next step? short rear links? springs? oil? car is not bad but i have to be really smooth or the rear wants to step out, this is in stock buggy.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

You running rm rear arms?

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

The solder alone should be fine. You shouldn't need the liquid flux. Our components are usually fairly clean and don't need more flux than what's included with the wire. Too much flux can just make a mess. Most guys use 60/40, but your stuff is OK. I also personally use finer solder. I believe it's 30mil. Not saying bigger stuff won't work, I just like smaller strands and I'll just feed more as required.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I find that even with RS 60/40 rosin core solder, having paste flux on the surface makes for a FAR better soldering experience. Heat transfers faster, perfectly clean shiny solder joints. I even use to DE-solder something.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

Read the soldering bible. This has helped me tremendously. Using flux is key.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html

slashdad

iTrader: (33)

Can anyone recommend an aluminium servo horn from Amain that is a good fit for a SAVOX 1251 and the b5M?

customss

iTrader: (20)

no im running all stock b5m

bambambennett

Alloy spring cups are heavier. I use them as a tuning option. My local track can be really fast but gets pretty rough too. The weight keeps the inside front wheel more planted while turning when you have a soft enough suspension setting to handle the rough. It eliminates the wheel chatter. Remember the game is about traction. Traction comes from the correct amount of presure on the tire. A heavier sprung weight adds presure to the wheel. Of course common knowledge states the less unsung weight the better, that's not always true.

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

Since you don't have the RM rear arms you can push your rear hubs all the way forward, put your shock all the way in on the rear shock tower, go to 0 ballstud washers on the rear inner camber link, go to the 2 hole insert in the rear hubs all the way out (long link) (I did this the other day and my car was almost to locked in), softer oil and spring in the rear, larger hole or more holes in piston.

Those are a few things you can do to get more grip.

I run on a medium bite track usually and I run stock and my setup is basically exactly like what I just gave you but I run 3x1.4s all the way around 32.5 in the front 30w in the rear white springs front and green rear and I have the RM rear arms and my car is pretty much always locked in.

customss

iTrader: (20)

thanks for the reply, i have removed the ballstud washers, i will move the hubs and change the shock angle first, then i will try the hubs with long link, then try oil/piston dont want to try to much at once so i know what each does. thanks again for the reply

dbowen

iTrader: (7)

Ya deff its good to see what each one does, try the ball stud washers first, then move the shock in, and then try the next longer link. Then if you still need more grip try the 3x1.4s all the way around, I love them bc they handle bumps really well and we have 3 step downs like the reedy race that I can just fly through compared to everyone else, but if the track is smooth and has a decent amount of grip Ill go to the 2x1.6 in the rear but I always run the 3x1.4s up front.

Also make sure you use the same tires after every change you make or you wont be able to tell whether it was the change that made your car better or worse or the tires (I know it sounds like common sense but Ive done it before).

Hope this helps!

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...SetupHints.htm

this has helped me out quite a bit.