Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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i just got my b5m i was wondering if anyone could help me out with a setup. i run on a indoor med bite damp clay tight track. has anyone tried the box setup? just curious what to do before i start building buggy. thanks
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
deleted
Tech Adept
Since I've seen you post a lot good info I'm going to go with that it's not built wrong, and you've verified all the ball cups are free, I think this catches a lot of people out, included the guy I bought my 2nd car from, they were not good, no wonder I got a great deal
The car was a bit slopped out, but the killer is the binding in the rear outdrive/bones. It honestly looks fine at a glance, but there's no doubt after feeling them. I swapped the bones left to right and it even got dramatically smoother with just that. Greif.
Wayne
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Schoettler inline
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (220)
I'm not really seeing a useful thread for the reedy black box. Is it a must have to get the program box?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Well... you made me look, and good on you man. I felt the "on load" slide of my bones in and out of the outdrives and they were amazingly sticky compared to how they looked. Turns out the bone pins have some meat hooks hiding on them where I couldn't see, and that right there will do exactly what I'm complaining about--make the rear suspension lock up under power or brake. Until I get some new bones and outdrives, and probably install some new cblock/spindle and rear hubs (I run the plastic ones), I really can't fault the platform. Definitely makes me feel better knowing there's a reason the thing was just all over the map.
The car was a bit slopped out, but the killer is the binding in the rear outdrive/bones. It honestly looks fine at a glance, but there's no doubt after feeling them. I swapped the bones left to right and it even got dramatically smoother with just that. Greif.
Wayne
The car was a bit slopped out, but the killer is the binding in the rear outdrive/bones. It honestly looks fine at a glance, but there's no doubt after feeling them. I swapped the bones left to right and it even got dramatically smoother with just that. Greif.
Wayne
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Well... you made me look, and good on you man. I felt the "on load" slide of my bones in and out of the outdrives and they were amazingly sticky compared to how they looked. Turns out the bone pins have some meat hooks hiding on them where I couldn't see, and that right there will do exactly what I'm complaining about--make the rear suspension lock up under power or brake. Until I get some new bones and outdrives, and probably install some new cblock/spindle and rear hubs (I run the plastic ones), I really can't fault the platform. Definitely makes me feel better knowing there's a reason the thing was just all over the map.
The car was a bit slopped out, but the killer is the binding in the rear outdrive/bones. It honestly looks fine at a glance, but there's no doubt after feeling them. I swapped the bones left to right and it even got dramatically smoother with just that. Greif.
Wayne
The car was a bit slopped out, but the killer is the binding in the rear outdrive/bones. It honestly looks fine at a glance, but there's no doubt after feeling them. I swapped the bones left to right and it even got dramatically smoother with just that. Greif.
Wayne
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
they have the shiny drive system for mod with steel outdrives instead of aluminum that will hold up a lot better.
This wasn't a quality control issue, it was a worn out from lots of outdoor racing and I didn't see it issue. Having said that, the ball cups were a pain, the hubs and cblocks slop out pretty easily, and there is quite a bit of play in the rear arm mounts when new, but hey, easily fixed on those.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
The esc itself has been great so far in my B44.3, very smooth and good power and strong brakes. my only issue is why dont they include the fan? Seriously i have to pay an extra $15 for the fan? which by the way has no protection and I've already broke a blade and have no idea how. if anyone knows of a 30mm fan protector let me know, I think PSM makes one but I dont believe its 30mm?