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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 11-23-2014, 05:00 PM
  #15946  
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Default Rear Grip Suggestions...

I am curious what your thoughts may be on the following:

My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.

1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.

Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.

Thanks!

JRF
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Afun
If we are paying to the difference between a 1mm spacer vs a 2mm spacer....the slop or free range of motion the shock caps have on the stand off bushings has to significant.

I used the Schelle Stand offs and the shock caps did not move at all.

With the Composite Shock Caps or or V2 Shock Caps on the composite stock stand offs we have lots of movement. AE doesn't even offer a hop up for that. That may mean its OK. Just hard to accept the slop when we always tune for no slop.
Tuning for no slop in a car is just a plain waste of time. Especially an offroad car. If you were to build a perfectly shimmed zero slop car with no binding, it would be terrible to drive. To reactive. Some of the best drivers in the world have done this with an onroad car years ago. It was so reactive it couldn't stay on the track!

In the shock bushings it is critical that the shock can swivel freely on the bushing. That swiveling is not slop. Only if it has up and down play or side to side play. After using my B5 for 6 months did the bushings get to a point where I feel they were sloppy. You know what, after replacing them my lap times were the same... Imagine that.
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:57 PM
  #15948  
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Adding the upgraded stand offs will eliminate that swivel. Eliminating slop in Nitro Buggy is common practice. In the differentials its crucial. I would have thought in 2wd buggy for it to be very important because the slights slop could change the characteristics. I race this Wednesday again. I will pay attention to this.
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:05 PM
  #15949  
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Originally Posted by JFuel11
I am curious what your thoughts may be on the following:

My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.

1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.

Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.

Thanks!

JRF

I have this same issue and want a cure also
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:09 PM
  #15950  
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If the shocks don't swivel, something is wrong. Never seen a shock bushing stock or aftermarket that doesn't. The AE aftermarket alum standoffs do it as well.
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:13 PM
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Rear shocks inside inside. 30wt oil with kit 1.6 pistons. 26.65 mm exposed shaft. 3 toe 1 deg anti squat. Battery strap secured with screws or flanged nuts instead of kit thumb screws. Will generate alot more flex. Front droop at 20.5 to 20.75mm white springs 35wt oil. I also like rhe tapered 3x1.4 pistons installed cone down. Standard stroke going up but faster return in down travel. This means fastwr weight tranfer to the rear. You can try these things. But I also feel the plastic rear arm amounts are the best. The brass and alum take away to much natural flex if running on med bite or and track with a layer of dust. Also you can unscrew your rear end an make sure the screws are not torqued. I always x mine up when tighten and will check this and redo most of the main screws on the car at the track about once a day or more depending on the length of time I'm there.
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:38 PM
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Hey guys im sure this was talked about but here is my question this is my first 2wd buggy and was wondering i already have saddle packs has anyone seen a difference performance wise between saddle and shorty
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cweb
Thanks Wildcat, those are the trailing arm inserts?
Yes. Sorry been at the track for the last 4 days
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:44 PM
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Just realized a car I got has RM front arms, but the MM tower, I remember someone posting the right way to make that work?
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma
I have this same issue and want a cure also
change the dirt to super tacky clay, lol. lol, J/K. I run on medium to high bite indoor tracks. For rear bite, I run 3-1 toe/squat, Rm rear arms and hubs forward. Smallest pinion and spur combo to move the motor back. I weight in at 1560 grams. And I run my shorty back with the esc center-lined against the battery. Rear shocks inside/inside. 32.5/30 oils with Avis 1.5x1.1 front and 1.6 rear pistons. White front and grey rear springs. Also, my slipper is set to prevent wheelies, meaning it is not locked. I am running the Avid Evo woth white/red/white. I have plenty of rear bite, but I could possible have more traction on the track than some of you.
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:57 PM
  #15956  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
Just realized a car I got has RM front arms, but the MM tower, I remember someone posting the right way to make that work?
Get the RM front tower, easy fix and pretty cheap. My $0.02
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:29 PM
  #15957  
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Yes change your tower.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:32 PM
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Must be nice to be at the track for 4 days, was watching kids soccer last two days . Got away during thwe week a few hours and hit 15-20 packs thru car but nothing this weekend.
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Get the RM front tower, easy fix and pretty cheap. My $0.02
Yeah I know that, I will get one, but I was curious what the setup is to use the MM tower.
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:56 PM
  #15960  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
change the dirt to super tacky clay, lol. lol, J/K. I run on medium to high bite indoor tracks. For rear bite, I run 3-1 toe/squat, Rm rear arms and hubs forward. Smallest pinion and spur combo to move the motor back. I weight in at 1560 grams. And I run my shorty back with the esc center-lined against the battery. Rear shocks inside/inside. 32.5/30 oils with Avis 1.5x1.1 front and 1.6 rear pistons. White front and grey rear springs. Also, my slipper is set to prevent wheelies, meaning it is not locked. I am running the Avid Evo woth white/red/white. I have plenty of rear bite, but I could possible have more traction on the track than some of you.
Running same except 1.6 all around... Ill try loosening my slipper... Anyone know if you can program timing on stock spec v3.1 hobbywing??
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