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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 11-20-2014, 05:32 PM
  #15886  
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I think most everyone runs 3 degrees toe and from 1 - 2 degrees on the anti-squat
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:05 PM
  #15887  
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:13 PM
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Default setup help

Im sure I am breaking a rule some where here. im going to purchase a b5m and am looking for stater points on motors and electronics. wont be at a track for now but want to be half way there on a medium budget. been 15 yr since i played with this. new two the forums so forgive me if im in the wrong thread. ty
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Old 11-21-2014, 03:32 AM
  #15889  
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Originally Posted by childhoodfun
Im sure I am breaking a rule some where here. im going to purchase a b5m and am looking for stater points on motors and electronics. wont be at a track for now but want to be half way there on a medium budget. been 15 yr since i played with this. new two the forums so forgive me if im in the wrong thread. ty
Nope this is the place ... Start by reading the first page with all the tips. Good luck
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Old 11-21-2014, 08:15 AM
  #15890  
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Originally Posted by mxnickj
Where are you guys running the rear motor rear arms setting your rear toe and antisquat at? I'm running on medium traction clay if it matters
Medium traction? I would run either 3/0 or 3/1. I was running 3/2 for a few weeks, but the car felt significantly easier to drive and easier to push with 3/1, so I went back. We run on high bite indoor clay.
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Old 11-21-2014, 09:00 AM
  #15891  
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I finally switched to the alum C + D blocks. Running 2.5 x 1. I run the plastic hubs so depending on track conditions I switch to the .5 inserts for that 3 deg total. Now that we have a fresh layout its time to put back the 0.

Looking forward to trying out some JConcepts Smoothies. A buddy ran them last night and they seemed alright. I had the opportunity to drive his car but I have no "before" run to compare it to. His setup is a little different than mine which I could say accounted for some of the differences in how the car drove but it definitely seemed planted everywhere.
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Old 11-21-2014, 09:47 AM
  #15892  
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Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me
I run on a Med-med/high traction clay track and I'm running 3+1.5 and my car is hooked up.
I'm assuming you are running a 3/1 toe block with .5 deg in the hub?
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:25 AM
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I just got tekin rs gen2 and 8.5t motor for my b5m and ive been looking around trying find a good battery but im not sure what to get.
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me
I run on a Med-med/high traction clay track and I'm running 3+1.5 and my car is hooked up.
Originally Posted by skrichter
I'm assuming you are running a 3/1 toe block with .5 deg in the hub?

Skrichter, you are reading the numbers incorrectly... He is running the C block that would give 3* inboard toe, and 1.5* rear anti squat.
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:01 PM
  #15895  
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Hey guys

What lipo should I put in my new B5?
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:44 PM
  #15896  
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hey guys, had my first run last weekend with my b5m and seems I have very weak braking. I know its not the electronics because I tried different esc, motor, receiver. I am running a gear diff and the slipper was set loose because of traction. I think i remember hearing a loose slipper can cause weak brakes but just wondering how to get good brakes and also let the slipper slip coming out of turns.
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:51 PM
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Just have to tighten it up some. Yes, the slipper can slip both under acceleration as well as braking. Also, depending on your slipper (if you are on Avid) you could go to a more aggressive pad (red). May help.
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:06 PM
  #15898  
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Originally Posted by Graham11
hey guys, had my first run last weekend with my b5m and seems I have very weak braking. I know its not the electronics because I tried different esc, motor, receiver. I am running a gear diff and the slipper was set loose because of traction. I think i remember hearing a loose slipper can cause weak brakes but just wondering how to get good brakes and also let the slipper slip coming out of turns.
The slipper is a shock absorber for the gearbox. You don't want to set it uncharacteristically loose, as if to act as a clutch to aid in throttle control. That isn't what it is there for, and you will just burn it up. You don't "let the slipper slip coming out of turns".
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:14 PM
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I love the Aero-Model shorty lipos. They have real low IR and great batteries for 17.5
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
The slipper is a shock absorber for the gearbox. You don't want to set it uncharacteristically loose, as if to act as a clutch to aid in throttle control. That isn't what it is there for, and you will just burn it up. You don't "let the slipper slip coming out of turns".
Well a Factory Team Associated driver did it for me so cant imagine he would advise me to do something that doesn't work and/or would damage my car. And it wasn't set loose for throttle control, its set loose for traction control and yes that is what a slipper is designed for, the slipper reduces wheelspin as the car accelerates from low speeds, so the car accelerates faster and is less prone to spin out exiting turns on slick tracks. Additionally and more obviously the slipper reduces sudden forces on the inside of the transmission.

But the issue is my brakes.
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