Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

+1 keep your tires matched unless something is terribly wrong. Slicks front and rear IMO. Dont mix tires of vastly different wear level. It is about contact patch. If slicks work in the rear, then slicks in the front. We run on a water indoor clay track. We also run slicks. Any tire with tread will have less bite, because it has less contact patch.

Jason Baliban

It is rare that anyone is running all 4 slicks. It just grabs so hard that guys are rolling in the corners or when coming of jumps.

jB

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

That could be, you might need to goto a ghost pin in the front. We have a local track that requires special tires to work right. Foams and tires need to be broken in to a certain point. Your front might not be worn enough. What tires are you using?

Jason Baliban

Yes, i think it is similar here. I tried a new pair of typos on the rear and they wouldnt grab for anything! I tried another guys typos (not sure if the compound was the same), and they were totally different tires. His were older and more "broken in" so maybe that is exactly what you are talking about.

I am running typos...super soft in the front.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

When our track had that much traction, we ran 18mm ride height and weight in the nose, also try using a harder compound slick like M3 front assuming you're using M4 rear.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Yeah, jason. the local track here is a SS tire with the "right" amount of tread and foam break in. But....I have heard stellar review from the locals using the new proline electron vtr. We also used to use the TYPO tire heavily here. People are saying it had better bite without needing all of the work. I dislike tracks that require the tire to be in a small perfect window to work. Also, try going up in spring rates in the rear and/or softer in the front. I am currently running white rears and green fronts on clay slicks. I play with springs alot on the B5m. I find I can get the car where I want it easily....provided I have the "right" tire.


Also, as far as SS tires are concerned, I think the Proline M4 is the best traction in the SS tire lines.

Nemaris

iTrader: (18)

Also if you are running pre made slicks from panther etc make sure to sand them to take the shine off with 200-400 grit. Easiest is just to spin the tires on your car with throttle, or chuck them up in a dremel if you have one.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

What are you running for front foams? Often, a new set of closed cell foams are just way too damn stiff. Don't be afraid to play with open cell foam up front.

Jason Baliban

Thanks guys, i will give these all a shot.

Any thoughts on "clay" compound vs SS? I believe the clay is designed specifically for indoor clay?

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

I haven't had luck with clay compounds up here in the North East. IRH, RCHR, Wolcott, and RCE all do well with soft or super soft. Granted, I haven't run in almost a year.

The one track that I've been on where clay may have worked was Critters. Their clay was smooth, glossy and abrasive.

Jason Baliban

Are you finding you need to "break them in" first or they good right away?

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Brand new foams helps with this. Play with compounds. Might need a different tire in the front. Could just be steering it too much as well.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

I haven't been anywhere where a brand new tire is the ticket. They all require some level or breakin/work.

Jason Baliban

I guess there is no way around it, i am going to need 24 different sets of tires arent i?!

isarctard

iTrader: (99)

Just got the ft rear arm mounts and camber, on the D arm mount the arrows should point inwards as I'm looking at it from the rear correct? This is to match box stock.

The rear camber mount should be +2 to match box stock?