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Old 09-10-2014, 01:07 PM
  #7831  
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Originally Posted by DWill
Did WC get a vacation !
Yes, a one month vacation.
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Nice......man that is huge....that is what she said, lol. 85g, wowsers. A square pack was no good?
Thanks ,
Don't have them and my saddles, I think, died yesterday. Fully charged they only lasted 5-10laps before dying and when I checked they were both at 8.2-8.3v after (I don't know what's wrong).
The saddles as far as I could try were very nice (100gr more than the shorty) I tried tonight the 85g weight and gave me a similar improvement but I might try a 140g version tomorrow and see what it does .

Last edited by shannow; 09-10-2014 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:26 PM
  #7833  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
The grub screw pressed against the insert. Because everything is already tight when new, it seems to bind it up often. When the car is new, you dont really need the screws. I would install them, but not tighten them up. then tighten as needed as it break in.
will do, thanks
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:27 PM
  #7834  
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So what's the advantages of the aluminum shock cap? People say it's stronger? In what way? Or does that really matter? I haven't had any issues with my stock plastic ones.

If there are other reasons they are benificial I will concider the switch. I'm just not quite convinced there's enough benefit to justify the cost. Would love to hear some of your guys opinions on them tho.

Thanks
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:29 PM
  #7835  
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Originally Posted by Justinb86
So what's the advantages of the aluminum shock cap? People say it's stronger? In what way? Or does that really matter? I haven't had any issues with my stock plastic ones.

If there are other reasons they are benificial I will concider the switch. I'm just not quite convinced there's enough benefit to justify the cost. Would love to hear some of your guys opinions on them tho.

Thanks
I have noticed some slop develop between the FT bushings/mount and the plastic cap.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:32 PM
  #7836  
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Originally Posted by Justinb86
So what's the advantages of the aluminum shock cap? People say it's stronger? In what way? Or does that really matter? I haven't had any issues with my stock plastic ones.

If there are other reasons they are benificial I will concider the switch. I'm just not quite convinced there's enough benefit to justify the cost. Would love to hear some of your guys opinions on them tho.

Thanks
When I had the yokomo there was really no benefit with aluminum vs plastic. Im sure with the associated its the same. There is a benefit, plastic to plastic friction is higher than aluminum to plastic. BUT if you dont over tighten the nuts and squeeze the bushing you prevent this. The only other benefit is the bleed hole will be less likely to strip with the aluminum.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:35 PM
  #7837  
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Originally Posted by Justinb86
So what's the advantages of the aluminum shock cap? People say it's stronger? In what way? Or does that really matter? I haven't had any issues with my stock plastic ones.

If there are other reasons they are benificial I will concider the switch. I'm just not quite convinced there's enough benefit to justify the cost. Would love to hear some of your guys opinions on them tho.

Thanks
My plastic caps got super sloppy after a short time. I thought the bushing might have worn out, but I kept the bushing and replaces the plastic caps with alum. And it was instantly way way better. Slop gone. Now 4 months later, starting to get a little slop with the alum caps. This time I probably need to replace the plastic bushings. I am looking at getting the AVID shock bushings this go around.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:13 PM
  #7838  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
My plastic caps got super sloppy after a short time. I thought the bushing might have worn out, but I kept the bushing and replaces the plastic caps with alum. And it was instantly way way better. Slop gone. Now 4 months later, starting to get a little slop with the alum caps. This time I probably need to replace the plastic bushings. I am looking at getting the AVID shock bushings this go around.
Aluminum on aluminum will just wear eachother out that much faster. Take whatever part is more expensive, and run aluminum. Take whatever part is cheaper, and keep it plastic. The cheaper plastic piece will take all the wear, and you simply replace that when you develop the slop. Your more expensive aluminum piece won't wear at all.

I assume the shock bushing would be cheaper, and the shock cap would be more expensive. So get alu shock caps, but keep the bushings plastic.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:16 PM
  #7839  
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Originally Posted by shannow
Here's a 85g brass weight I made to improve my B5m on super slippery tracks (polished floor) hoping it can give ideas to people.

Why not just run a battery that weighs 85 grams more? You are already running a battery designed to be lighter than a full sized battery. typical shorty = ~200 grams, typical full size = ~300 grams.

You might as well gain the MAH/voltage advantage of a higher capacity battery to achieve your weight, considering it is in roughly the same location.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:08 PM
  #7840  
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OK, to get the FDR where it is recommended with this Trinity D4 17.5 Maxzilla I need to run a 32t - 33t pinion with a 72 spur. I only have 1 pinion that large (a 31t) and it's a RR steal gear. I was thinking this is alot of rotating mass to get going......Are you guys running aluminum pinions or steal?

Last edited by Jeepy2013; 09-10-2014 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:29 PM
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I use the TLR alum pinions. light and great wear
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Why not just run a battery that weighs 85 grams more? You are already running a battery designed to be lighter than a full sized battery. typical shorty = ~200 grams, typical full size = ~300 grams.

You might as well gain the MAH/voltage advantage of a higher capacity battery to achieve your weight, considering it is in roughly the same location.
We have done the back to back testing with a square pack vs shorty with weight. While the added mah gave me the same power at the end of a race as it did in the beginning the problems came with tuning. The square park was stuck and planted the car which gave it a push that was going to require a setup change. The shorty with weight still allowed us to move weight forward or backwards in the car which affected handling. I will revisit the square pack again a little later down the road. In 17.5 I feel this will be great to have. Mod guys love the square pack!!!!
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:43 PM
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I did some testing with saddle and shorty outside on a slick to med at best track and the saddle seem to let the car keep rotating where as the shorty let it corner a little better and when I would drift it I could catch it faster with the shorty and I do run mod
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:55 PM
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Is the forum to help out guys with questions or show off bling and rip on each other?
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:05 PM
  #7845  
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No one is ripping on anyone. They were discussing brass weight vs mab weight
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