137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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09-03-2014, 11:04 AM
Are most people using carbide or ceramic diff balls? What are the advantages of both? What about thrust balls, ceramic or carbide? Are the Avid thrust bearings worth it? Getting ready to rebuild my diff and want to make sure what I need to order. Thanks for any help.
09-03-2014, 11:11 AM
I find the evo tires to work better with the bands as the stock foams are a bit too firm in my opinion.
09-03-2014, 11:11 AM
Are most people using carbide or ceramic diff balls? What are the advantages of both? What about thrust balls, ceramic or carbide? Are the Avid thrust bearings worth it? Getting ready to rebuild my diff and want to make sure what I need to order. Thanks for any help.
09-03-2014, 11:28 AM
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IMO, carbide diff balls for better "bite" into the diff rings preventing the dreaded diff killing "bark". And ceramics for the load bearing thrust washer.
Many report that the thrust balls are the first to become "gritty". Why? IMO. Those 6 little balls are subject to the same side load (diff spring pressure) as the 14 larger diff balls.
Diff break in can't be stressed enough regardless. I use to be lax on it and figured most guys were having to redo diffs every 3 weeks or so. Once I took the time to REALLY break in my diffs, they really can last a couple months, or longer. It's time well spent, IMO.
Many report that the thrust balls are the first to become "gritty". Why? IMO. Those 6 little balls are subject to the same side load (diff spring pressure) as the 14 larger diff balls.
Diff break in can't be stressed enough regardless. I use to be lax on it and figured most guys were having to redo diffs every 3 weeks or so. Once I took the time to REALLY break in my diffs, they really can last a couple months, or longer. It's time well spent, IMO.
09-03-2014, 11:41 AM
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I could be wrong though..wife tells me I am all the time
09-03-2014, 11:43 AM
IMO, carbide diff balls for better "bite" into the diff rings preventing the dreaded diff killing "bark". And ceramics for the load bearing thrust washer.
Many report that the thrust balls are the first to become "gritty". Why? IMO. Those 6 little balls are subject to the same side load (diff spring pressure) as the 14 larger diff balls.
Diff break in can't be stressed enough regardless. I use to be lax on it and figured most guys were having to redo diffs every 3 weeks or so. Once I took the time to REALLY break in my diffs, they really can last a couple months, or longer. It's time well spent, IMO.
Many report that the thrust balls are the first to become "gritty". Why? IMO. Those 6 little balls are subject to the same side load (diff spring pressure) as the 14 larger diff balls.
Diff break in can't be stressed enough regardless. I use to be lax on it and figured most guys were having to redo diffs every 3 weeks or so. Once I took the time to REALLY break in my diffs, they really can last a couple months, or longer. It's time well spent, IMO.
09-03-2014, 12:00 PM
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I've done diff rebuilds with new carbide balls and diff rings using the old thrust balls and washers only to have, what I consider, a gritty diff from the start..So those 6 little balls do wear and need attention even if you might think they don't do much...again IMO
09-03-2014, 01:38 PM
The thrust bearing uses washers that need to roll smoothly over the thrust balls. The assembly "rolls". It isn't responsible for any traction. In that case, you want balls that are very hard and very round/smooth, but don't particularly need any grip on the washers that are applying pressure, which would make the best choice, ceramic.
The diff balls need to be round and smooth of course, but also require "traction" against the diff rings so that the diff doesn't slip. Ceramics work here as well, in "some" diffs (like the durango 210 diff), but in a lot of cars, in order to keep the diff from slipping on ceramic diff balls, you need to run the diff tighter than you normally would want to. Here is where carbide becomes advantageous. They don't last as long, aren't as smooth/round, but provide far better traction/grip against the diff rings than the ceramics do. It allows you to run a much looser diff, without slip.
09-03-2014, 01:42 PM
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Yeah, opposite.
The thrust bearing uses washers that need to roll smoothly over the thrust balls. The assembly "rolls". It isn't responsible for any traction. In that case, you want balls that are very hard and very round/smooth, but don't particularly need any grip on the washers that are applying pressure, which would make the best choice, ceramic.
The diff balls need to be round and smooth of course, but also require "traction" against the diff rings so that the diff doesn't slip. Ceramics work here as well, in "some" diffs (like the durango 210 diff), but in a lot of cars, in order to keep the diff from slipping on ceramic diff balls, you need to run the diff tighter than you normally would want to. Here is where carbide becomes advantageous. They don't last as long, aren't as smooth/round, but provide far better traction/grip against the diff rings than the ceramics do. It allows you to run a much looser diff, without slip.
The thrust bearing uses washers that need to roll smoothly over the thrust balls. The assembly "rolls". It isn't responsible for any traction. In that case, you want balls that are very hard and very round/smooth, but don't particularly need any grip on the washers that are applying pressure, which would make the best choice, ceramic.
The diff balls need to be round and smooth of course, but also require "traction" against the diff rings so that the diff doesn't slip. Ceramics work here as well, in "some" diffs (like the durango 210 diff), but in a lot of cars, in order to keep the diff from slipping on ceramic diff balls, you need to run the diff tighter than you normally would want to. Here is where carbide becomes advantageous. They don't last as long, aren't as smooth/round, but provide far better traction/grip against the diff rings than the ceramics do. It allows you to run a much looser diff, without slip.
09-03-2014, 01:56 PM
Yeah, opposite.
The thrust bearing uses washers that need to roll smoothly over the thrust balls. The assembly "rolls". It isn't responsible for any traction. In that case, you want balls that are very hard and very round/smooth, but don't particularly need any grip on the washers that are applying pressure, which would make the best choice, ceramic.
The diff balls need to be round and smooth of course, but also require "traction" against the diff rings so that the diff doesn't slip. Ceramics work here as well, in "some" diffs (like the durango 210 diff), but in a lot of cars, in order to keep the diff from slipping on ceramic diff balls, you need to run the diff tighter than you normally would want to. Here is where carbide becomes advantageous. They don't last as long, aren't as smooth/round, but provide far better traction/grip against the diff rings than the ceramics do. It allows you to run a much looser diff, without slip.
The thrust bearing uses washers that need to roll smoothly over the thrust balls. The assembly "rolls". It isn't responsible for any traction. In that case, you want balls that are very hard and very round/smooth, but don't particularly need any grip on the washers that are applying pressure, which would make the best choice, ceramic.
The diff balls need to be round and smooth of course, but also require "traction" against the diff rings so that the diff doesn't slip. Ceramics work here as well, in "some" diffs (like the durango 210 diff), but in a lot of cars, in order to keep the diff from slipping on ceramic diff balls, you need to run the diff tighter than you normally would want to. Here is where carbide becomes advantageous. They don't last as long, aren't as smooth/round, but provide far better traction/grip against the diff rings than the ceramics do. It allows you to run a much looser diff, without slip.
09-03-2014, 02:09 PM
09-03-2014, 02:21 PM
I wanted to give some feedback on the 2 pad setup that some people say is great. Referring to the v2 vented plates. Mine and my daughters cars use AVID Triads, but my youngest wanted to race last weekend. I didnt have an extra triad, so I put in a vented v2 2 pad setup. I set it for 2 inches like i normally do. Then I went to run laps in 17.5 on high bite. I was running clay slicks. At first I was doing wheelies. I didnt really like that feel at all, so I backed off the slipper nut 1/8 of a turn. Then it felt much better, I could get on it hard, the front stayed down and the punch felt great. I charged another pack and went out to test a few things.... About half way into the pack, the car started to feel really soft and power was fading. I could hear the slipper whistling, so I pulled it in and tightened it 1/8 turn. And i was back to doing wheelies. So, I give on on the POS. For the way I like to run my car, I think the AE 2 pad is crap. The AVID Triad is so much better at setting and forgetting. After weeks of driving, I can do a slipper test on the bench and still get my 2 inch lift. And I never feel it fade on the track. This is where George comes and tells me how perfect his 2 pad system is and that I am doing it wrong, lol.....
09-03-2014, 02:29 PM
I run the triad 2 pad setup on all my stock vehicles. I run all red discs. Its more of a safety version of a locked spur.
09-03-2014, 02:34 PM
I wanted to give some feedback on the 2 pad setup that some people say is great. Referring to the v2 vented plates. Mine and my daughters cars use AVID Triads, but my youngest wanted to race last weekend. I didnt have an extra triad, so I put in a vented v2 2 pad setup. I set it for 2 inches like i normally do. Then I went to run laps in 17.5 on high bite. I was running clay slicks. At first I was doing wheelies. I didnt really like that feel at all, so I backed off the slipper nut 1/8 of a turn. Then it felt much better, I could get on it hard, the front stayed down and the punch felt great. I charged another pack and went out to test a few things.... About half way into the pack, the car started to feel really soft and power was fading. I could hear the slipper whistling, so I pulled it in and tightened it 1/8 turn. And i was back to doing wheelies. So, I give on on the POS. For the way I like to run my car, I think the AE 2 pad is crap. The AVID Triad is so much better at setting and forgetting. After weeks of driving, I can do a slipper test on the bench and still get my 2 inch lift. And I never feel it fade on the track. This is where George comes and tells me how perfect his 2 pad system is and that I am doing it wrong, lol.....
09-03-2014, 02:57 PM
yeah, I was thinking about trying the AVID with 2 red pads. For the same reasons as you. I just like the tuning ability of my current setup. With 2 white pads and 1 red, loosen it for a low bite or tighten it for wheelies on high bite. I just love the consistency of the Triad. If you have not liked AVID's facebook page, you should. Some nice things coming down the pipe very soon.