JiuHaWong

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

lol, the setup on my MM was fine. And SRS has great traction. The last layout had a few spots that made the MM harder to drive on. It was not just me, I was talking to a few guys and they had the same issues in the same spots. Mainly areas where you need to get on and off the power hard. Like rhythm sections or low speed turns into big jumps. When ever I needed to get on the gas quickly, the rear would kick a little and thus sometimes put me on my roof, because I would twist off the jump. My diff is pretty tight, but I am thinking about maybe going tighter. Once, I get my MM car rebuilt and a new body painted up, I will probably run it again. Aside from my consistency issues with the MM, I loved the feel of it in the corners and the level jumping. I am trying to decide if i want the brass C holder or the alum. I have been using the plastic in the past. But I want more ease in tuning toe and squat. I will probably run alum on the D.

Wild Cherry

Disappointing Jason..
Do what you like, will still be interested .

Jason Baliban

I appreciate it WC. I will just create a new thread. I feel like if i was looking through this thread for specifics on the B5M i would also get annoyed with some dude making it all about his project.

I will link to it when i start it.

jB

Wild Cherry

Promise you all my support for your efforts.

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

See? There you go again...the tighter a diff is, the less it functions properly. In 17.5 which I presume is what you race, the diff should ONLY be tight enough to not bark period. A properly working diff works right along side with the sipper...not too loose, and certainly not too tight. It will allow the car to jump, accelerate and corner the was it is supposed to!

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Hmm, that is the way I normally run my diffs for RM cars. Yeah, I guess everyone was saying the MM car needed tighter diffs, so I used that as a starting point. I need to rebuild the diff, so when I do I will set it like I normally would. I was told my car was not squaring up fast because the diff was too loose and that it was diffing out. When I tightened it, it seemed better to me. Much better forward drive.

Mizchief

Anyone know what the total weight difference is when running the lunsfords?

I'm liking the way the brass knuckles (as I like to call them) feel on the C & D holders for getting more rear traction, but would like to bring the total weight of the car back down a bit to keep from blowing out a couple of corners

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

the lunsford Ti studs barely remove any weight at all. Like maybe a couple grams. I think someone posted a while back that it was like 2 grams.

Mizchief

When I come around a tight 180 and get on the gas, the inside tire seems to balloon more than the outside, is this a symptom of a diff being too loose? As far as over all handling it's pretty good right now other than trouble on that turn getting back up to speed fast enough and a little bit of push at higher speeds (which I think can fix by lowering the wing)

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I know what your talking about. I had the same issue with the car rolling over too fast and lifting the inside wheel on higher bite tracks. I went up in oils and spring rates and it went away. Your car is just rolling too much. I have always understood diff tightness as looser for more corning and tighter for push. I like to think about it like this. If I had locked posi traction, it would turn like crap. Have you ever heard a car a locked rear diff go around corners ( a real car)? The outside wheel will squeal as it is dragged around the corner. So if your pushing on power around a sweeping turn, then your diff "might" be too tight. It could be other things. Many of the locals on higher bite tracks run much stiffer shock packages than I see posted here. blue fronts and grey rears with 37.5/32.5 oils and 1.6 pistons. I run grey fronts and white rear my self with 35/32.5 oils and 1.6 pistons. I have people tell me how their B5M pushes all the time, but I dont get it. Mine has always turns on a dime and I can stay full wood on most sweepers in 17.5.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

its close to a gram per ball stud, a little less. There are 14 studs.. the whole set removes at least 10 grams

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

hmm, I was told less. I passed on them due to the $50 price tag, lol. I am surprised it was a gram. I dont think the turnbuckles saved me 10 grams over the steel ones.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

you can adjust your diff setting based on the traction you have available. Loser diff is going to allow better steering, a tighter diff is going to slow down rotation and allow for better forward bite.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yes, this is why I tighten mine.