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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:20 AM
  #12421  
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Cherry, or anyone with a good setup that will fit my needs.....please read my post on previous page....thanks
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:21 AM
  #12422  
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper
I just bought a B5M kit and it did not include shims. Did AE update the parts so no shim is needed?
what shims? I dont recall any shims in the build. Just the plastic spacers for tuning.


And yeah, the b5 is a porker. I think it is the wide alum chassis and beefy arms. The 22 out of the box is lighter also...but they toss on 100 grams, lol.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:22 AM
  #12423  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
Cherry, or anyone with a good setup that will fit my needs.....please read my post on previous page....thanks
I would look at the latest mod setup on AE's site. Cherry is doing whack a$$ stuff to his cars. Brent just posted a setup a couple days ago
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:24 AM
  #12424  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I would look at the latest mod setup on AE's site. Cherry is doing whack a$$ stuff to his cars. Brent just posted a setup a couple days ago
Yes, THIS. Cherry is running on some insane bite, not like what most of us have/will/do run on. Also, he still runs barcodes front/rear, who does that anymore?
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:43 AM
  #12425  
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Trcr is med traction to loose as hell on practice days, sometimes really fast on practice but rarely..

Trevor
Already posted the set up were using, but its difficult to make up a set up for some track I never seen or run on .

Take a good look at the images of my ride , has not changed much sense.

Tonight I am experimenting with new stuff.

Just plastic rear arms & using the inside hole on the rear tower.

using

Grey front & white rear spring
4 x 55 piston , front oil 37.5 ,rear oil 32.5

3/0 toe
Hard front arm
Rear hub middle of arm
23.5 ride height

Suggest you try Mo-Grip

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 07-25-2014 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:03 AM
  #12426  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
what shims? I dont recall any shims in the build. Just the plastic spacers for tuning.
He was saying shims were provided because the crush tube between the bearings in the front hubs were too short.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:10 AM
  #12427  
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Ah, I have the OG crush tubes with no issue. Didnt even know AE was shipping out shims
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:33 AM
  #12428  
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They are shipping wider crush tubes. You can use a shim if you have OG tubes. I lost a set of front bearings with a OG set of tubes from a early kit. I bought a new set of tubes, which were wider, and new bearings.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:39 AM
  #12429  
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what is the width of the updated crush tubes. I have 2 kits and I am curious to which I have. kinda a pain because I have no idea what the LHS, amain or tower have in stock, lol
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
Finally started to mod the car. I added a cf battery strap, the aluminum c & d blocks, and aluminum rear ballstud mount and aluminum screws. With the 3500 shortie it weighs 1538g. I was sure that it would be the same as the C&D blocks added some weight but I ended up losing 10-15 grams. Not worth the $100 it cost. If you are a serious racer the stock plastic stuff is your best bet as its lighter. I can't see a functional difference. The CF strap and aluminum screws were decent bang for my buck....the other stuff not so much.

I'm going to go practice a bit and then intall the ti axles, ti turnbuckles, and aluminum steering rack. I run a 20 mil chassis liner so I'm sure that adds a lot of weight. Once I add a slipper eliminator and pucks I'll probably be under weight with the small lipo. FYI, my RB6 is underweight with the small lipo already and it isn't super modded....pucks, CF towers, and CF battery tray/strap. The B5 is a porky beast!
I don't find it all that porky . .. then again I run mod so getting it under 1500 really is not my thing. the point of the aluminum C and D blocks is so you can change squat and rear toe not save weight. I would stick with plastic on most parts if I was serious about cutting weight down. You want to replace steel items with alum items not replace plastic with aluminum to save weight. Keep in mind with the lower weight you run you will need to change your setup.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:57 AM
  #12431  
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anyone tried these yet?
http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1383
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:24 PM
  #12432  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
seems like a pretty good deal for the price . ..
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:26 PM
  #12433  
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teah, I have some Ti screws and they are maybe good for 2-3 times of removing, then they are done. Curious to see if these are better.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:46 PM
  #12434  
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So I went and ran a few packs....I think I like my car a little heavier. Its very close but I think its better with the 4600 pack which puts it closer to 1590.....so if I knocked 20-30 grams off it would be perfect with the bigger shortie. I want to once again reaffirm that if your goal is to be lean don't bother with most of the fancy aluminum parts other than the screws.

If you are going to the aluminum C & D mounts to make the car more adjustable that's silly. Its pretty much the same amount of time to swap the plastic mounts as it is the inserts....once again my observation. I did buy a set of the fancy blue mounts for all of my b5s (3).
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:54 PM
  #12435  
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I know a couple guys that went super lean. 1500 with FT alum upgrades. And they didnt like their cars much at all. said they never hooked up right. My goal is 1550-1570. why? that is what my RM car is and I like it.
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