137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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06-19-2014, 09:12 PM
One of my close friends during my high school years(88-92,I know "old guy") was raised by Mike Reedy. I didnt know how to set up a car, at all.LOL. Mike took care of all of us (friends with his "son") with motor help and car tuning( he was actually a pretty good onroad racer). If the car looked outa whack, he told us "try this there". We started with pins and ribs, moved to Losi X patterns, and finally ended up with micro pins(fuzzies). I don't think car setup was as crucial back then because the cars tended to slide around since the tracks were rototilled soil rather than concrete hard packed clay. Anytime a motor seemed to lose steam, he would fix it and we would be going fast again. I started with stock 27 turn and moved onto mod about a year into it. My preference was a 17 turn triple for my RC10 and a 13turn triple for my Yokomo(which I wish I still had). Good times back then. A few of us used to ride our bicycles from Westminster to Costa Mesa (about 10 miles or so) to go to the track(RCHR) if nobody was around to drive us. Dedicated!LOL
06-19-2014, 09:21 PM
One of my close friends during my high school years(88-92,I know "old guy") was raised by Mike Reedy. I didnt know how to set up a car, at all.LOL. Mike took care of all of us (friends with his "son") with motor help and car tuning( he was actually a pretty good onroad racer). If the car looked outa whack, he told us "try this there". We started with pins and ribs, moved to Losi X patterns, and finally ended up with micro pins(fuzzies). I don't think car setup was as crucial back then because the cars tended to slide around since the tracks were rototilled soil rather than concrete hard packed clay. Anytime a motor seemed to lose steam, he would fix it and we would be going fast again. I started with stock 27 turn and moved onto mod about a year into it. My preference was a 17 turn triple for my RC10 and a 13turn triple for my Yokomo(which I wish I still had). Good times back then. A few of us used to ride our bicycles from Westminster to Costa Mesa (about 10 miles or so) to go to the track(RCHR) if nobody was around to drive us. Dedicated!LOL
06-19-2014, 09:24 PM
Are you doing the HD cups the 22SCT and 22-4 use? They are absolutely fantastic and if you use one of those punches to make holes in them, they are also easy to install/remove just like the AE ones. I might switch later as well. For now, my Lunsford turnbuckles and OEM rod ends are free and smooth.
06-19-2014, 10:11 PM
Gti you got it all ready ..(best ball cup). 
Not sure what arm's your useN, think plastic rear may be good for U. I'm using hard.
try 2.5/1 & outside on the rear chassis camber..
My ride is very good for the grip tommorow..
My 44 too.
Oyeah , he runs the wheeler like every day ...
44 driving good tonight ,good time...
.
Not sure what arm's your useN, think plastic rear may be good for U. I'm using hard.
try 2.5/1 & outside on the rear chassis camber..
My ride is very good for the grip tommorow..
My 44 too.
Oyeah , he runs the wheeler like every day ...
44 driving good tonight ,good time...
.
06-19-2014, 10:23 PM
Any weight difference between lunsford balls and AE kit balls?
06-19-2014, 11:30 PM
My coworker is a New Design Engineer and CNC programmer for our huge CNC's. We did a Solidworks FEA Stress analysis on the B5M chassis to see how we can remove weight without affecting rigidity. The "spiderweb" design is used to retain its "factory" stiffness indicated in dark blue in the first pic below. The lighter shades are somewhat weaker areas. Without the spiderwebs we started to see green to yellow areas which noticeably have more flex under load so in order to reduce weight and keep it within light blue to dark, we had to add the ribs. We weren't concerned about the lighter shades not dark blue because once the plastic parts were assembled and installed, the chassis was re-enforced to no flex at all. The last pic is the final product with plastic frames attached. Mill time is 39 minutes a chassis at .073" depth. Factory mill is .050". Chassis is .105" total so there's .032" left at bottom of mill holes. Effective weight loss of 30 grams on the money and still stiff as stock. The power of solidworks at its best when used to its potential. PM me for info on getting it done for your chassis.
Last edited by RcOldskool; 06-20-2014 at 10:32 AM.
06-20-2014, 02:46 AM
I ran my MM car around the oval last weekend for giggles. So much better than a RM car on the oval.
I checked the pins, they are fine. Some of the bind is in the arms. I have noticed that my hard arms are way more free than the plastic ones. But you can feel the binding in the cups. I showed another driver and his eye widened in amazement at how tight they are. My RM car the cups are pretty free, but i spent time amount of time getting them that way. I probably can make them better with some effort polishing, it just pisses me off that I need to work so hard on the balls. I just picked up some lunsfords and I will be replacing all of the caps. I will probably take the time to polish the balls also, meh.
I checked the pins, they are fine. Some of the bind is in the arms. I have noticed that my hard arms are way more free than the plastic ones. But you can feel the binding in the cups. I showed another driver and his eye widened in amazement at how tight they are. My RM car the cups are pretty free, but i spent time amount of time getting them that way. I probably can make them better with some effort polishing, it just pisses me off that I need to work so hard on the balls. I just picked up some lunsfords and I will be replacing all of the caps. I will probably take the time to polish the balls also, meh.
06-20-2014, 04:33 AM
Aluminum + CC machine = FTW.... I got a AE aluminum shock cap and tried to thread the bleeder screw and was going real slow.. No matter what way I put the bleeder screw in it was not right.. Ended up trying to screw it in the best I could and guess what happen? It stopped before it was all the way in and the head stripped.. I was out a set of $16 shock caps.. 
06-20-2014, 05:45 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
RcOldskool - now that is some impressive engineering!
Any chance you and/or your co-worker will be doing any more chassis' for customers?
Any chance you and/or your co-worker will be doing any more chassis' for customers?
06-20-2014, 06:27 AM
my main concern with that milling is. Where does the esc and receiver go? I just dont see it sticking to that minimal flat surface. And I refuse to use shoe goo to hold my electronics in.
06-20-2014, 06:31 AM
Are you doing the HD cups the 22SCT and 22-4 use? They are absolutely fantastic and if you use one of those punches to make holes in them, they are also easy to install/remove just like the AE ones. I might switch later as well. For now, my Lunsford turnbuckles and OEM rod ends are free and smooth.
I would love to see someone here use a new stud, a new cup, assemble with no prep work and show me your floppy camber links, like i showed in my video. Many of you tell me how free yours are. I would like to see. I doubt anyone has any as free as the TLR new out of the package.
06-20-2014, 06:45 AM
06-20-2014, 07:11 AM
Its not a problem at all. My receiver and esc are still in the buggy and we have big jumps. We double up servo tape in the milled areas.
06-20-2014, 07:19 AM
06-20-2014, 07:54 AM
Originally Posted by RcOldskool
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[URL=http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rcoldskool/media/1.jpg.html
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Whole idea is equalize the flex and make the front flex more equal to the rear