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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-22-2014, 11:32 AM
  #10186  
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IMO, many people are either WAY over thinking this car. Mostly the stock guys.
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:33 AM
  #10187  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I dunno, the rock in that dirt are magical. I dont even know how they get into the places they do. lol. I only race indoors these days, and it is no longer an issue. I was just giving an example of a past issue.
If you're periodically checking it, there really shouldn't be an issue. Don't you inspect your cars closely while in the pits? I often find issues doing the occasional visual inspection of parts/chassis/components etc. Even chassis protector film could be used to avoid abrasion from the battery.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:06 PM
  #10188  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Here is a setup that a fast local uses. I ended up near this setup, but not exactly. But people seem to like it for our medium bite local track. It is supposed to have a very aggressive feel.
that's the setup I had on the car I sold u. I loved it.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:11 PM
  #10189  
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Originally Posted by dougwalter911
that's the setup I had on the car I sold u. I loved it.
yeah, you had different pistons and your 2mm spacer was forward and not behind. I still have that setup on that car. I was running it last night in practice to compare to mine. The car is pretty good. I noticed also that several other guys were running the long links. Also, I put the orion in my "main" car. Oh man, with the upgraded SS firmware that esc is sick. I am fairly certain, that it should not be legal. I dont know what they didnt to that firmware, but it pulls enough current from my packs to warm the lipo and use 1600 mah in 5 minutes of 17.5. I plan to keep the orion in the buggy for the near term
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:41 PM
  #10190  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry


I bet they are very interested and follow everything we are doing on RcTech everyday..

probably not with some users (no names) posting about set ups for months about cars they don't even own

Or posting testing unrealistic testing results(no names again), they have real teammates and engineers. Thats where they go for information
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:45 PM
  #10191  
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Originally Posted by JiuHaWong
If you're periodically checking it, there really shouldn't be an issue. Don't you inspect your cars closely while in the pits? I often find issues doing the occasional visual inspection of parts/chassis/components etc. Even chassis protector film could be used to avoid abrasion from the battery.
Yeah, I do. But I have a bad habit of charging and storing my packs in the cars...I hate thumb screws, lol. But yeah, I go over my cars and try to clean them up between rounds. I only run 1 class, so it keeps me from getting bored.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:51 PM
  #10192  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
You can also hide the sensor completely by going with a flat one and routing it through the chassis tunnel...
Oh I'm stealing your idea since I already run a flat sensor wire. Thanks!
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:53 PM
  #10193  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, I am sure a fanboy will chime in, but my tekins always ran hotter than most brands. And they always felt less powerful. So less power and more heat, mean I sold them. I run reedy's mainly these days. I want to try the hacker, because many locals seem to think its godly...and my daughter likes purple, lol (for her car)
In rear motor form the Gen2 stayed really cool. I knew the 17.5 would run hotter in the closed in mm so I took it easy on my gearing and timing. The car was slow compared to the others so I figured it would come off the track cool after round one. It came off the track pushing 170. Round two same thing. For the main I put in a Reedy 17.5. Came in 35-40 degrees cooler. The Reedy has bigger and more holes on the can, which I think makes it run much cooler. I think the heat issue is a stock racing thing, hopefully Tekin will look into better venting at least in the stock motors.

I really liked my B5 rm cars, so i was not too sure why I got a new MM..... Both cars are good, but man I really love that mid motor.
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Old 05-22-2014, 01:00 PM
  #10194  
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IMO, 17.5 is sketchy for MM. Not because MM sucks or anything weird. Its power and heat. The car is heavier unless you spend $$$$$ to make it light, and in general 17.5 motors are run hot to get speed out of them. But the MM has much less cooling, so that makes the whole thing worse. Almost every mod car at the local track is MM and they can do wheelies all day with the traction level. But in stock, 90% of the cars are RM. Mostly for the power. MM handles just fine. I am hoping to put together a mod MM car soonish. I need a second class to run.
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Old 05-22-2014, 01:05 PM
  #10195  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
But I have a bad habit of charging and storing my packs in the cars...
Your just asking for something like this to happen:

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Old 05-22-2014, 01:07 PM
  #10196  
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a little duct tape and that car is fine.
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Old 05-22-2014, 01:23 PM
  #10197  
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Yeah, that will buff out..
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Old 05-22-2014, 01:28 PM
  #10198  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
IMO, 17.5 is sketchy for MM. Not because MM sucks or anything weird. Its power and heat. The car is heavier unless you spend $$$$$ to make it light, and in general 17.5 motors are run hot to get speed out of them. But the MM has much less cooling, so that makes the whole thing worse. Almost every mod car at the local track is MM and they can do wheelies all day with the traction level. But in stock, 90% of the cars are RM. Mostly for the power. MM handles just fine. I am hoping to put together a mod MM car soonish. I need a second class to run.
I agree with that, our track is indoor fairly small. the setups are usually have a lot of corners, with maybe one straight thats not real long. MM works good with mod and stock because its more about the corner speed than blistering straight speed.
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:23 PM
  #10199  
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Has anyone run saddle and square packs? I'm assuming there is little or no difference with equivalent battery specs but I wanted to see what people had to say.
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Old 05-22-2014, 03:03 PM
  #10200  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
IMO, 17.5 is sketchy for MM. Not because MM sucks or anything weird. Its power and heat. The car is heavier unless you spend $$$$$ to make it light, and in general 17.5 motors are run hot to get speed out of them. But the MM has much less cooling, so that makes the whole thing worse. Almost every mod car at the local track is MM and they can do wheelies all day with the traction level. But in stock, 90% of the cars are RM. Mostly for the power. MM handles just fine. I am hoping to put together a mod MM car soonish. I need a second class to run.
It's all perception. A couple mm cars at stock nats that weighed in at 1600+ finished right behind Hartson. A really fast local who installed a fan has his motor coming off at about 130 after 10 plus minutes of running straight. I am not saying what you said has zero validity, but there are ways around those obstacles.
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