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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-14-2014, 11:25 AM
  #9856  
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Quick question. I just rebuilt my diff last week. Can i use those dif balls in a different setup? Or should I just buy new ones again?
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by splking1
Quick question. I just rebuilt my diff last week. Can i use those dif balls in a different setup? Or should I just buy new ones again?
safest bet. replace them.

In many instances you can reuse if you dont have flat spots. Figuring out if you have flat spots may not be the easiest. That is the nice thing about the ceramics....no flat spots. I am sure the "fast" guys replace them and the cheap guys do not. If your old diff was gritty, replace. Keep if it was smooth , but if its smooth, why are you replacing parts anyway...
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:40 AM
  #9858  
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Originally Posted by dezertranger96
I still can't find a reliable screw supplier, anyone know of any? I know there was a Japanese supplier, but I can't seem to find them again
Lunsford makes a kit. I'm running that. It's pricy. 110 bucks
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
safest bet. replace them.

In many instances you can reuse if you dont have flat spots. Figuring out if you have flat spots may not be the easiest. That is the nice thing about the ceramics....no flat spots. I am sure the "fast" guys replace them and the cheap guys do not. If your old diff was gritty, replace. If it was smooth keep, but if its smooth, why are you replacing parts anyway...
Yeah the dif balls are only a week old. Is the cermaics a better choice?? Some guy said they were to hard to break in or dial in. Never ran them so I wouldn't know.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:43 AM
  #9860  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Lunsford makes a kit. I'm running that. It's pricy. 110 bucks
I am sure he is looking for the cheap ones that are as soft as alum screws, lol. I bought the tlr Ti screw kit when it was $20. As it turned out, they were just as soft as the alum screws.....I dont think any of the "cheap" screws will be at lunsford's quality.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:47 AM
  #9861  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Yeah the dif balls are only a week old. Is the cermaics a better choice?? Some guy said they were to hard to break in or dial in. Never ran them so I wouldn't know.
well the ceramics have less "bite" on the rings. that is what he is referring to. If they are only a week old and still good, keep. but you can get flat spots on day 1 with improper break in. My b5 diff is still like butter, so I dont feel the need to rebuilt yet. When I do, I will replace the balls with tungston carbide and the thrust with avid caged ceramic. I have noticed that a LOT of the grit can be removed just by replacing the thrust bearing and plates. I only race once a week, so my diffs last a long time.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:33 PM
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Finally had a chance to run the car at the local track this weekend.

Very impressed! My driving skills are pretty lacking since it has been so long, but after a couple of packs, I was getting the hang of it again. I think I managed about 5.5 packs through it in the time I was there. Being that I haven't driven in so long, I left everything stock and didn't change a thing.

The track is an indoor high bite clay track, but they had just watered it prior to opening. It was pretty slick and mud was collecting on the tires quite a bit. After about three runs, it started to dry out a bit and I noticed I was doing traction rolls on occasion around the 90s.

I beat this car up pretty good and broke nothing. The only problem I had was when I nosed into the backside of the double. My motor slipped forward and the pinion mashed into the spur. A quick adjustment and I was back in action. I am a little timid over the double as it's pretty big with a deep valley. I didn't want to overshoot the landing and break something, so I ended up undershooting it more often than not. I will eventually get the hang of it.

One other issue (not the fault of the car) is that my rear tires came unglued! Maybe it was the cheap (but expensive) Hobby Town glue I used.

Overall I had a good time running the car. It was much more enjoyable than the original B4 I bought back in 2003. I could never get used to that car and sold it a few months after buying it.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DropPass
Finally had a chance to run the car at the local track this weekend.

Very impressed! My driving skills are pretty lacking since it has been so long, but after a couple of packs, I was getting the hang of it again. I think I managed about 5.5 packs through it in the time I was there. Being that I haven't driven in so long, I left everything stock and didn't change a thing.

The track is an indoor high bite clay track, but they had just watered it prior to opening. It was pretty slick and mud was collecting on the tires quite a bit. After about three runs, it started to dry out a bit and I noticed I was doing traction rolls on occasion around the 90s.

I beat this car up pretty good and broke nothing. The only problem I had was when I nosed into the backside of the double. My motor slipped forward and the pinion mashed into the spur. A quick adjustment and I was back in action. I am a little timid over the double as it's pretty big with a deep valley. I didn't want to overshoot the landing and break something, so I ended up undershooting it more often than not. I will eventually get the hang of it.

One other issue (not the fault of the car) is that my rear tires came unglued! Maybe it was the cheap (but expensive) Hobby Town glue I used.

Overall I had a good time running the car. It was much more enjoyable than the original B4 I bought back in 2003. I could never get used to that car and sold it a few months after buying it.
clean the tires/wheels with simple green and finish it off with rubbing alcohol. For the motor, use a larger diameter washer (larger than the head of the screw) under the motor screws. this puts more pressure over a larger area (more friction) and helps with motor movement.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:54 PM
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Going to order mine tomorrow!

Hoping that I get everything in time so I can run it Saturday. 2WD is dead locally but hopefully I'll be able to spark interest in it since there are several people who have them but leave them at home on race day... DOWN WITH SCT!!!
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:06 PM
  #9865  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Yeah the dif balls are only a week old. Is the cermaics a better choice?? Some guy said they were to hard to break in or dial in. Never ran them so I wouldn't know.
Buy the casper RC ceramic thrust and use the stock balls and rings and you'll have a cheap, very long lasting smooth diff.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:09 PM
  #9866  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Buy the casper RC ceramic thrust and use the stock balls and rings and you'll have a cheap, very long lasting smooth diff.
how are casper's balls better
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:42 PM
  #9867  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
how are casper's balls better
They're ceramic and one piece. Avid's are also very good. I have yet to try bfast's version.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Deluxe312
Turning the stock shim around so the screw hole is either to the front or back, or not using it offers you three different wing angles.
Have any idea which does what? I'm looking for 0 deg, the shim turned backwards looks like it would give me that.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:45 PM
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so are avid's. I suggested the avid, then he suggested caspers. I was wondering what was better about caspers.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:47 PM
  #9870  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
clean the tires/wheels with simple green and finish it off with rubbing alcohol.
I've used simple green on the tires, but what does the alcohol do?
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