Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#9331
#9332
The threads on the stock rods or 2" titanium rods don't go in so deep that they are stressing the actual cup though...that sticking/binding with the cup hole itself is due to either flashing or the cup being just a tick out of round is all. Compressing the cup hole just a bit on the side gently with pliers will free that binding right up.
#9333
Tech Addict
iTrader: (32)
Ran my mid motor this weekend in stock and was awesome but I was struggling with front bite. Any suggestions to get more front end bite Seemed to push through the corners. Other than that it was awesome to drive made me look good. Great buggy to build also
Thanks Chris.
Thanks Chris.
#9336
Question - I know springs are more of an art than science on RC cars (kidding...) but I"m looking at two identical setups - I assume the one on the AE site has the AE springs on there because they don't want to sell the competitors springs for them. Anyway, one has Kyosho gold front and red rear while the one on the AE site has grey grey. Of course, my shop doesn't have greys so I was looking at losi springs which I have a bazillion of. So, petit has this chart and to make things worse, the kyosho red has a way high spring rating than the AE gray, except for the "measured" rate is almost identical. Anyway, I haven't ever really cared about brand to brand comparisons till now so if anyone can help. Here's the chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
#9337
Not ignorant & never rude to anyone that comes here for fun & information.
#9338
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Question - I know springs are more of an art than science on RC cars (kidding...) but I"m looking at two identical setups - I assume the one on the AE site has the AE springs on there because they don't want to sell the competitors springs for them. Anyway, one has Kyosho gold front and red rear while the one on the AE site has grey grey. Of course, my shop doesn't have greys so I was looking at losi springs which I have a bazillion of. So, petit has this chart and to make things worse, the kyosho red has a way high spring rating than the AE gray, except for the "measured" rate is almost identical. Anyway, I haven't ever really cared about brand to brand comparisons till now so if anyone can help. Here's the chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
#9339
To cut the weight down; Titanium screw kit, AE aluminum top shaft, Schelle slipper eliminator. remove battery strap, thumb screws & foam, cut out all braces behind servo, between battery post, and triangle sections next to tranny mount. AKA Typo tires. Oh yea and the dog bones were polished chrome to make it go faster.
#9342
The TLR LFR spring or the original ones? The original ones are very progressive. you can feel it in your hands. The AE and LFR springs are more linear. If you are going to "do your own thing" with springs, pick one that is close in rating and go up/down as needed for the feel you want. IMO the original TLR springs are junk.
#9343
Can't seem to get more mid and exit steering without loosening rear traction.
On another note IMO Schelle bearings or something similar is a great upgrade!! So much more free spinning especially the front wheel bearings
On another note IMO Schelle bearings or something similar is a great upgrade!! So much more free spinning especially the front wheel bearings
#9344
Tech Initiate
Just finished my build
I thought the b5m build went together rather nicely. Only a few things concerned me. One were the dog bones. It seemed that the molding for the pin wasn't centered in the manufacturing process so if I insert it into the outdrive one way it binds like hell but if i flop it 180 degrees it fits but with a slight wobble (even tried other outdrive still did the same and it was only one dog bone not both). My second issue I had were the stock turnbuckles. IMO they are junk. The lengths on them are wayyyyy to long. You end up having to bury the threads so far into the tie-rod end that you can't even make adjustments to camber or toe with out the damn things popping off. Since they are so tightly buried into the tie-rod end it also acts like a clamp on the ball stud. So that once free moving ball cup, becomes tight with binding once everything is adjusted to where it should be.
With that said everything else in the build went together flawlessly. I contacted AE about replacement dogbones since it has been an issue with other customers and they said they will replace for free! Awesome! As for the turnbuckles I don't know what I am going to do. Probably find me some shorter length ones or perhaps contact AE again to let them know whats going on.
With that said everything else in the build went together flawlessly. I contacted AE about replacement dogbones since it has been an issue with other customers and they said they will replace for free! Awesome! As for the turnbuckles I don't know what I am going to do. Probably find me some shorter length ones or perhaps contact AE again to let them know whats going on.
#9345
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
Wow, that is so not what I have experienced with the RM car. It has tons of off power initial steering "at turn in" as you call it. What it's missing is on power steering - mid corner and exit steering.
Not sure what "corkscrew" means either. You mean it had too much off power steering?
Not sure what "corkscrew" means either. You mean it had too much off power steering?
Subtract a little front droop... add a little anti-squat... that should add some mid-to-exit steering.