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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-01-2014, 01:54 AM
  #9181  
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Just finishing up the build on my new B5M.

I'm running B5R straight front arms and shock tower.

Where should I start with camber and toe settings?
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Old 05-01-2014, 02:29 AM
  #9182  
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Default B5m

Best bet is start with manual setup and drive it. Then when you make changes, you know what to compare it to. + on the B5 front tower and arms.
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Old 05-01-2014, 04:18 AM
  #9183  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Sweat I joined the broken front bulkhead team. But I earned it. Full speed into a wall.... so I will be running the 30 del one tonight. It actually felt pretty good to me with the 30 del bulkhead
Yea I've been running the 30 deg bulkhead since I built the kit because of one of the very early setup suggestions. Hmm do the bulkheads break easily? Maybe I should try to get a spare, that is one of the parts I don't have...not that I'm racing any time soon.
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:14 AM
  #9184  
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what's the point of the red o ring on the steering rack?
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:23 AM
  #9185  
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Thumbs up wow!

Ran my new B5m on the carpet for last weekends races. All is I can say is wow. Im sorry to say but it puts the schumacher KF to shame as far as handling. Also durability seems better. I know i clipped a corner and drove away clean from it where the I would have been replacing the front end of the schumacher.
Cant say enough about this car.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:46 AM
  #9186  
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
I talked to him at the track the other day and he said he's still on this setup.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa..._IRCR20140406/

Interesting he runs the same setup for mod and stock.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:47 AM
  #9187  
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For those that have broken front bulkheads, were you using the stock plastic front hinge pin brace or the aluminum one?
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:04 AM
  #9188  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Yea I've been running the 30 deg bulkhead since I built the kit because of one of the very early setup suggestions. Hmm do the bulkheads break easily? Maybe I should try to get a spare, that is one of the parts I don't have...not that I'm racing any time soon.
if full throttle at the end of the straight is easy, then yes... But... it does seem to be the part on the front of the car that gives up. If you got an alum bulkhead the chassis or arms might be next. I feel like i deserved the break. But, since it appears to be the weakest part on the front of the car, you might want to have a spare.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:06 AM
  #9189  
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Originally Posted by Krio
For those that have broken front bulkheads, were you using the stock plastic front hinge pin brace or the aluminum one?
I broke one last night and i have the plastic pin brace. But I didnt hit the wall at full speed, so i kind earned the broken part.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:52 AM
  #9190  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Two good solid choices are the Reedy Wolfpack and the Promatch options. Personally, I prefer the Orion because they have never puffed or complained to me. Just work perfectly.
The new Reedy 25c Wolf is the pack to have for mod.
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:56 AM
  #9191  
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Getting close to done!

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Old 05-01-2014, 08:42 AM
  #9192  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Two good solid choices are the Reedy Wolfpack and the Promatch options. Personally, I prefer the Orion because they have never puffed or complained to me. Just work perfectly.
Per a new lipo testing thread that is pretty intense and in depth, Orions are waaaaay over priced and actually have more IR than quality less expensive packs.

Last edited by rigor; 05-01-2014 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:46 AM
  #9193  
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Originally Posted by VictionOne
The Pro-Match 4800 shorties looks like a good option especially since its in stock.

Do you guys think the Pro-Match 3500mah pack will be enough? It's 60 grams lighter than the 4800 pack. I'm coming from 1/8 scale and weight loss seems to be very beneficial in this class from what I've been reading here.
Some weight loss can likely be beneficial if you're running stock and can consistently keep all 4 tires on the dirt. If not, don't worry about the weight; the car kind of drives easier with more weight like square or saddle lipo pack.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:47 AM
  #9194  
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Originally Posted by DWill
Just finishing up the build on my new B5M.

I'm running B5R straight front arms and shock tower.

Where should I start with camber and toe settings?
0 toe. The car seems to have better traction in my experience with camber closer to 0.5 and/or no more than 1 degree. Check and see how your tires are sitting on the surface when you go to check ride height / camber. This seems to work well for me so I can put max tire tread to the ground.
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:49 AM
  #9195  
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Originally Posted by Micah123
Interesting he runs the same setup for mod and stock.
Yeah he's always trying different things but almost ALWAYS goes back to the same setup after a few runs.
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