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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:03 AM
  #8521  
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Popcorns ready!!!
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:19 AM
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This is my fave...

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Old 04-17-2014, 10:23 AM
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I think what cherry meant was the rotational mass, spinning the opposite direction of the tires and motor, helps reduce how hard the car pitches forward when slowing down.
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio
I think what cherry meant was the rotational mass, spinning the opposite direction of the tires and motor, helps reduce how hard the car pitches forward when slowing down.
I thought of that too. And it might impact the car the way you say. Kinda the opposite effect of lighting the drive terrain. But the mod gearing and motors lend to much more natural drag than stock. How much would you feel the extra 5grams on the slipper? I suspect not much. Even so, his explanation as written made little sense. And as for the slipper being unable to limit wheel spin, it can. I dont really use it that way. Most people use it as a force absorption tool for the drive terrain on hard landings or acceleration. But a few weeks ago I was racing and swapped out my spur and forgot to properly set my slipper the way I normally do, and thus I could not spin my tires no matter how hard I dried on acceleration lol. I had to go deep into corners just to clear the jumps, lol. And yet it never slipped when braking...lol. It "can" be used to limit wheel spin, but your finger is a better tool. I am not trying to rag on Cherry, but just explaining the confusion and inconsistency in his statements. I am sure he is just trying to be helpful. But his fanboy blinders make it hard to take him too serious sometimes.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:23 AM
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Finally done ! 1st run tomorrow
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:26 AM
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so during the build, did any of you sand the slipper pads and diff rings??
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by racer_guy
so during the build, did any of you sand the slipper pads and diff rings??
Personally I have never sanded diff rings. I have always used the stock AE rings and my diffs have been great. Break-in is key to a long lasting diff. Others sware by sanding the rings or buying the B-Fast stuff. No need to sand the pads, you can sand them at a later date when they become glazed over a bit from running.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:44 AM
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What grit paper do you use to sand the pads?

Also, what wheels are you guys using? So far I have managed to crack the stock wheels and the AKA Hexalites. Don't know what to try next. I just removed my tires and I'm ready for a new set of wheels!
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Personally I have never sanded diff rings. I have always used the stock AE rings and my diffs have been great. Break-in is key to a long lasting diff. Others sware by sanding the rings or buying the B-Fast stuff. No need to sand the pads, you can sand them at a later date when they become glazed over a bit from running.
All you have to do is hold a set of the B-Fast diff rings in your hand and you will be sold.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio
I think what cherry meant was the rotational mass, spinning the opposite direction of the tires and motor, helps reduce how hard the car pitches forward when slowing down.
Meant it slips both directions on power & off ..

Tighter the slipper, the more reactive the handling becomes off power.

The slipper in the video (duel vented & yellow pads) was set to raise the front end 1 in with a 7.5 Reedy.
What would of happen if I had adjusted the slipper to raise the front end 2 in instead ?
Car would hit harder or accelerate more & the car would dive into the corners harder & loose some on power steering.
Slipper is the most often ignored part on a beginners set up.

Instead should receive as much attention as the shocks , tires,ECT..

Those who believe locking or eliminating the slipper is a advantage are in for world of hurt.

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 04-17-2014 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Personally I have never sanded diff rings. I have always used the stock AE rings and my diffs have been great. Break-in is key to a long lasting diff. Others sware by sanding the rings or buying the B-Fast stuff. No need to sand the pads, you can sand them at a later date when they become glazed over a bit from running.

I agree with Matt, break in is key! I never used to put much effort or thought into it, and just figured everyone's diff's got gritty after a few days. Then I started putting in the time to do a proper break in..The result is a diff that can last a couple months or more.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
Cool "toy" but for 25 bucks I'll buy another set of Typos, and a foam sanding block from my local home improvement store.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:10 PM
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i use a wild-cherry approved emery board. my gf gets them from some cosmetology store for $0.79 each lol just make sure you set it on a flat surface.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RazzBarlow7
All you have to do is hold a set of the B-Fast diff rings in your hand and you will be sold.
Never had the need to. I have sold cars on here before and then 6 months later I get a pm from the guy asking me how i built the diff in it because its still perfect.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:15 PM
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Sandpaper glued to glass.You can even get trick like this guy did and put multiple grits on the same piece of glass.

Contact cement works good for gluing the paper down.

Make sure you use wet/dry sandpaper.
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