Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
|
|||
#6451
Rigor. I remember you said you had removed the spacers from the inner rear ballstuds because when you were coming into 180 degree turns the car was "hooking" which I think you mean when you would enter into the turn, the rear end of the car was whipping around (same as mine does).
If so, from what I was just told here you and I want to add spacers or lengthen the rear camber link, not take the spacers away.
If so, from what I was just told here you and I want to add spacers or lengthen the rear camber link, not take the spacers away.
#6453
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Rigor. I remember you said you had removed the spacers from the inner rear ballstuds because when you were coming into 180 degree turns the car was "hooking" which I think you mean when you would enter into the turn, the rear end of the car was whipping around (same as mine does).
If so, from what I was just told here you and I want to add spacers or lengthen the rear camber link, not take the spacers away.
If so, from what I was just told here you and I want to add spacers or lengthen the rear camber link, not take the spacers away.
#6454
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
A less expensive solution http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...cer-Set-TLR-22
I thought.
#6456
Tech Master
iTrader: (44)
So I'm doing some work on my car today and I was checking the front end for slop.
I'm finding there is some slop developing on the front hubs, the plastic parts used to adjust the front hubs are getting some slop developing. This is a little concerning because I haven't run my car all that much yet and wouldn't expect to see this type of slop developing at this point yet. I checked that the screw was tight in the end of the shaft, that's not the problem.
Anyone else seeing this?
I'm finding there is some slop developing on the front hubs, the plastic parts used to adjust the front hubs are getting some slop developing. This is a little concerning because I haven't run my car all that much yet and wouldn't expect to see this type of slop developing at this point yet. I checked that the screw was tight in the end of the shaft, that's not the problem.
Anyone else seeing this?
#6459
Yep, the TLR spacers are very nice. It's worth the $20.
#6460
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Don't forget which car had the fast lap, top 5 and top 10 jake.... Wish I could've stayed for the main but it was nice to compare the b5 and b5m. The m was different but the driving style was easily adaptable.
is where i am at right now with my b5m. car was really easy to drive a medium traction dirt surface. when the track is dry it becomes dusty and traction levels are drastically decreased, in these conditions i would run hubs forward to gain rear grip, at a minor loss of steering.
car was so easy to drive everyone watching said it just looked SLOW on my TQ run for the night (ahead of a few b5r, xfactory cubed, b4.2s and some losi 22 2.0s) with this setup it didnt feel like it needed to driven hard to be fast.
on another note, using the b4.2 jconcepts wing the holes are drilled 5mm-6mm back from the "kit" marks. played with it as far forward as the b4.2 kit mark, and as far back as 12mm from them, ended up with the best feel at 5mm-6mm range.
using a shorty in the 4mm from back position it just felt like the car didnt have enough rear grip on medium bite, car seemed to swing hard on mid-exit. using a shorty i think i would go back to the 4mm trail setting to smooth it out some, and add a 1mm spacer on the rear brace.
is where i am at right now with my b5m. car was really easy to drive a medium traction dirt surface. when the track is dry it becomes dusty and traction levels are drastically decreased, in these conditions i would run hubs forward to gain rear grip, at a minor loss of steering.
car was so easy to drive everyone watching said it just looked SLOW on my TQ run for the night (ahead of a few b5r, xfactory cubed, b4.2s and some losi 22 2.0s) with this setup it didnt feel like it needed to driven hard to be fast.
on another note, using the b4.2 jconcepts wing the holes are drilled 5mm-6mm back from the "kit" marks. played with it as far forward as the b4.2 kit mark, and as far back as 12mm from them, ended up with the best feel at 5mm-6mm range.
using a shorty in the 4mm from back position it just felt like the car didnt have enough rear grip on medium bite, car seemed to swing hard on mid-exit. using a shorty i think i would go back to the 4mm trail setting to smooth it out some, and add a 1mm spacer on the rear brace.
#6461
Tech Addict
simply put.. here is pack.. yes its high speed compression dampening.
take your car and hold it level about 2 feet off the ground... drop it... your shocks compress quickly as your car may or may not bottom out... that is pack.. its how it affects your car under quick impacts like coming off a jump. if you have more or bigger holes the oil in your shock passes thru them more quickly and would cause your car to bottom out pretty hard...
the more pack you have the quicker it slows your shock under high impact.
to get the same static.. or how it feels when you push down on the car on the bench.. static feel... you use a lighter oil with smaller or less piston holes or a heavier oil with larger or more holes..
hope that helps.
take your car and hold it level about 2 feet off the ground... drop it... your shocks compress quickly as your car may or may not bottom out... that is pack.. its how it affects your car under quick impacts like coming off a jump. if you have more or bigger holes the oil in your shock passes thru them more quickly and would cause your car to bottom out pretty hard...
the more pack you have the quicker it slows your shock under high impact.
to get the same static.. or how it feels when you push down on the car on the bench.. static feel... you use a lighter oil with smaller or less piston holes or a heavier oil with larger or more holes..
hope that helps.
#6463
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
Sharp turns / 180's is where I was having the most issue. I got my hands on front flat arms today. Hoping OCRC still has the front tower tomorrow when I go back to run and tune most of the day.
EDIT: Wait... Is it the same front shock tower for both the B5R and B5M ?? I heard a different tower was needed for each front arm type ?? I can't go wrench for another few hours to find out the answer :P
EDIT: Wait... Is it the same front shock tower for both the B5R and B5M ?? I heard a different tower was needed for each front arm type ?? I can't go wrench for another few hours to find out the answer :P