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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

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Old 03-11-2014, 09:26 AM
  #5866  
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So I think I found the trick to these shocks. I don't bleed them. I kept getting air bubbles to I over pack them with oil then let out the screw and it lets out a bout 3 drips of oil and it had the perfect amount 0 air and 1/8 and inch rebound
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:28 AM
  #5867  
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Absolutehobbyz.com has 1 B5M in stock. Great guys and if u choose fedex home delivery and live in philly/nj/nyc area you can get it over night most times for like $10, that is if you order by 1pm. you can also find a coupon if u search google too, i think its like 5% off.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:48 AM
  #5868  
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost
So I think I found the trick to these shocks. I don't bleed them. I kept getting bubbles to I over pack them with oil then let out the screw lets out a bout 3 drips of oil and it had the perfect amount 0 air and 1/8 and inch rebound
I have noticed the same thing. I dont like the kit directions for the bleeding. Took me a few tries with different methods to get it dialed. I pretty much use that same bleeding process that you mentioned. Im suprised nobody else has mentioned this. I also use a tamiya pump to eliminate air.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:01 AM
  #5869  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
You kinda hard to understand with that sentence. You can remove the vts, buy a standard slipper pad,slipper plate, and have a 2 pad system.
Why would I need to change the spur or buy anything different? The pad drops into the same spot as the cage did just using one less pad and cage right?
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Why would I need to change the spur or buy anything different? The pad drops into the same spot as the cage did just using one less pad and cage right?
the spurs are the same. So your wanting to remove one of the pads from the vts to convert it from a 3 pad to a 2 pad? That would yield a minimal weight change and I am unsure if it would work. I have never tried that. I either ran the vts 3pad, 2 pad system or the triad.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
The weight with the battery is what should be reported. It's kinda hard to compare to others if were not comparing the same thing. Should be weighed race ready with battery and body
I have an issue with that. Lots of batteries are different weights, thus you're not comparing the weight of the actual car itself which is what we are doing.

Some are running shorty packs, some are running pan car batts (lighter than shorty packs, mine is 150g) or a new SQ Brick pack...

Because of the different weights in battery packs it's best to weigh the car alone minus the battery.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tropmonky
I have an issue with that. Lots of batteries are different weights, thus you're not comparing the weight of the actual car itself which is what we are doing.

Some are running shorty packs, some are running pan car batts (lighter than shorty packs, mine is 150g) or a new SQ Brick pack...

Because of the different weights in battery packs it's best to weigh the car alone minus the battery.
well, if your going to go that route, you should remove the tires and rims also. Some of my tires weight greatly more than others. M4 holeshots weight more than a green barcode.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:50 AM
  #5873  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
well, if your going to go that route, you should remove the tires and rims also. Some of my tires weight greatly more than others. M4 holeshots weight more than a green barcode.
Electronics and body as well. That why you should compare the car you put on the track. That's what the rule looks at and really the only number that matters.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Electronics and body as well. That why you should compare the car you put on the track. That's what the rule looks at and really the only number that matters.
+1 the tekin gen2 I had was 40grams lighter than an orion and 20grams lighter than a viper. A LP servo is also about 20 grams less than a full servo. This is why we all just do race weight. All that maters if the roar min of 1499. And of the weight bias. Removing too much weight from one end of the car, could seriously effect traction.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:59 AM
  #5875  
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My b5m is not built so ill shut up...

Last edited by Double Dee; 03-11-2014 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:01 AM
  #5876  
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Originally Posted by tropmonky
Some are running shorty packs, some are running pan car batts (lighter than shorty packs, mine is 150g)
Why would you run 3.7volts in a buggy?
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:13 AM
  #5877  
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Originally Posted by suby723
I have noticed the same thing. I dont like the kit directions for the bleeding. Took me a few tries with different methods to get it dialed. I pretty much use that same bleeding process that you mentioned. Im suprised nobody else has mentioned this. I also use a tamiya pump to eliminate air.
Ya I found the best way for me and this way ther is no air
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:27 AM
  #5878  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
A great way to improve this sport is just open the buggy class for any motor & make Sc & ST 17.5 the new beginner class's..


BTW

Couple teammates are now using the shorty pack, mid performs much better with.

cherry, how are you orienting the battery? side to side? if so, in the front of the tray or rear? Or are you running it from front to back down the center of the tray?
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:28 AM
  #5879  
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just finished up the b5,built the t4 a few weeks back,coming back to ae from losi,just waiting on my rx for the b5.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-photo-1.jpg   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-photo-2.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:32 AM
  #5880  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
All this ball cup talk is getting annoying, when i built my car i would thread them on a couple turns then back them off a couple turns and i did that until i got it where i needed it,i have no issues with the ball cup being super tight or wanting to pop off while adjusting. Just take your time with them and your good to go
What's annoying is when no one brings it up in over 30 posts and you bring it back up again
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