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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

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Old 03-07-2014, 10:04 PM
  #5521  
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http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...s/fixtools.htm I use this with motor spray. then one drop of oil. Just the way i do it..
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:12 PM
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1525 shorty. I could cut it down, running DS 1015 servo, but plan on using weight savings for MM. Fat cars.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:43 PM
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Finished the roller tonight. Man, by the way some of you were talking about the ball cups, I was prepared for a fight. Turns out, it's no big deal. All I did was ChapStick the threads, and screwed them together. No drilling, taping, or reaming. Just thread and go. I can adjust all I want on the car and the cups are not popping off.

My only "issue" is the ball diff is NOT smooth. It's a bit notchy. I took it apart and re-did it several times. Same result. I'm hoping it will break-in. If not, that gear diff has my name on it.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:48 PM
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I normally race 17.5 in my area but was waning to go ahead and throw in a mod motor I was seeing what's a good turn motor to run I was thinking 8.5 but was not sure if I should go 7.5 instead? My mod 4x4 I ran 6.5 just turned it down in my remote.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
I normally race 17.5 in my area but was waning to go ahead and throw in a mod motor I was seeing what's a good turn motor to run I was thinking 8.5 but was not sure if I should go 7.5 instead? My mod 4x4 I ran 6.5 just turned it down in my remote.
Depends on the size track you have, for a smaller track an 8.5 should be more than enough. I know most of the team drivers run 8.0 pretty much everywhere it seems.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cridd
1525 shorty. I could cut it down, running DS 1015 servo, but plan on using weight savings for MM. Fat cars.
Im running a shorty in mine, I was surprised to make the weight i did.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:18 PM
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Really happy how the wiring came out, the Orion fit awesome.

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Old 03-07-2014, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
For you 17.5 guys....Aluminum top shafts are in stock at AE.


How much of a difference does an aluminum top shaft really make in stock class? Is it a lot?

How long do they last?

So for the pinion, are stock guys also running aluminum pinions or regular steel ones. It seems like a lot of stock guys are running 33-34 tooth pinions which are pretty big.

Thanks
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Old 03-08-2014, 01:25 AM
  #5529  
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Originally Posted by VegasHB


Comes in 12, 14 or 18ga
Thank you for making me not give up!!
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:02 AM
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Here's a bit of an odd question, I have a fair bit of fresh rubber mounted on b4.1 pin drive rear wheels, any chance that they will fit over the b5m drive pins with the hexes removed?
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ntJeff
Really happy how the wiring came out, the Orion fit awesome.

looks good, but I would make the solder joints on the bullets look the same. One looks nice, the other kinda looks like a cold joint
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:54 AM
  #5532  
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Pin wheels will fit over the drive pins but you would have to also use the axle spacer that goes behind the pin from the B4.
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:09 AM
  #5533  
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Originally Posted by Corners
Finished the roller tonight. Man, by the way some of you were talking about the ball cups, I was prepared for a fight. Turns out, it's no big deal. All I did was ChapStick the threads, and screwed them together. No drilling, taping, or reaming. Just thread and go. I can adjust all I want on the car and the cups are not popping off.

My only "issue" is the ball diff is NOT smooth. It's a bit notchy. I took it apart and re-did it several times. Same result. I'm hoping it will break-in. If not, that gear diff has my name on it.
+1 on the ballcups w stock tie rods. Perhaps a running change or maybe something different with part cooling during manufacturing. Couldn't find my chapstick so they are dry for now! Haven't built shocks or diff yet. Skipped over messy stuff until today.
Only issues so far is manual call outs not matching a part or two with no suppliment sheet, and rear tower screws did not match lengths - one was 2mm shorter than the other. could be a user error though!
Tranny halves screwing in made snapping noises due to tightness.. we'll seeif the screws are in one piece today.


Kit build is probably the best ever for AE. Not much flashing to hassle with.

The biggest issue are the metric threads...my hand is tired from turning that wrench. Time for some power tools!
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:38 AM
  #5534  
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Originally Posted by Double Dee
72 t came in the mid? Well mine did. and i almost had to stand on it to get it on the gear but it did go. But the 69 that came with my b5r fit very nice. both worked. and spin true.
Same here. I fought with it for a while and it finally went together. It was TIGHT.
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:50 AM
  #5535  
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Originally Posted by Rcgman
How much of a difference does an aluminum top shaft really make in stock class? Is it a lot?

How long do they last?

So for the pinion, are stock guys also running aluminum pinions or regular steel ones. It seems like a lot of stock guys are running 33-34 tooth pinions which are pretty big.

Thanks
Honestly, there is no "wow" factor to the aluminum top shaft, but everything about it is positive. Less rotating mass equals a more efficient transmission. The motor works less and therefore produces more. This can be felt in slightly more punch. It also shows in lower motor temps. For me it was like going up two teeth in the pinion without losing torque or increasing motor temp. The overall weight reduction is also of benefit in a class where cutting wires shorter to shed precious grams is present. Every bit helps and the weight difference in top shafts is considerable.

Pinion size depends on spur gear, track conditions, motor brand, and driving style. I run Novak, which are known to run cooler and lean to the torque side. Currently I run 69/33 and have run as high as 35. Still coming off the track after full battery practice around 120 degrees. Have to temp the motor to find correct pinion. The manual has a good starting place of 31.
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