Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#2851
with the 22, won't be an issue though. planning on ordering a couple soon
#2852
Never cracked a Turnigy or an SMC. But I always put clear shrink wrap on all my batteries to keep the labels looking new.
#2853
#2854
Tech Master
iTrader: (29)
how would that change ackerman ? I could see it possibly effecting bump steer, tho that's normally changed at the spindle
shortening or lengthening the steering arm changes ackerman, and there are holes to do that, but adding or subtracting shims should only change bump steer
shortening or lengthening the steering arm changes ackerman, and there are holes to do that, but adding or subtracting shims should only change bump steer
Last edited by Mdoc; 02-08-2014 at 04:07 PM.
#2855
#2856
+1
On the B4, adding shims would change the bump steer since the ball studs were mounted vertically, raising the height of the steering link on the rack. on the B5, the studs are horizontal so adding or taking away shims changes the angle of the steering links basically changing the length of the steering arm at the rack side, not the spindle.
On the B4, adding shims would change the bump steer since the ball studs were mounted vertically, raising the height of the steering link on the rack. on the B5, the studs are horizontal so adding or taking away shims changes the angle of the steering links basically changing the length of the steering arm at the rack side, not the spindle.
#2860
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
Well I think I'm going to be stuck with the worlds worst spray bomb paint job. I tried doing it in my garage and the first coat isn't sticking AT ALL. I'm not sure if the paint sat on the shelf too long or what, never had lexan paint do this to me. Cold air maybe? The body and spray can were at room temp, I ran out into the garage and sprayed and then brought into the mud room to dry but the paint basically all ran into the top car and pooled there.
On to actual car talk...anyone else have an issue with the steering linkage binding? The one ball seems to be a touch too big or something and it is not free moving. Other than those issues the build is done and if I get a body that is remotely acceptable I should be racing it tomorrow.
On to actual car talk...anyone else have an issue with the steering linkage binding? The one ball seems to be a touch too big or something and it is not free moving. Other than those issues the build is done and if I get a body that is remotely acceptable I should be racing it tomorrow.
#2861
#2862
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
That stinks. I have been reading everywhere that the B4.2 Punishers would work, so I ordered 2 sets. Now it looks like what you need is 6 of the 2 inch Punishers. The manual (which I should have looked at before ordering) shows the stock TBs at 2.06 or 2 1/16 inches. So, the 2 inch Punishers should work great. Or in other words, the Lunsford Losi 22 set!
#2863
Everything was more free moving than my fresh 4.2 out of the box. I had no binding.
#2865
My report:
First, I threw a 44.2 rod shock end on my left front to actually drive the car today because it cracked badly when popping the ball into it. Seemed to thread right on.
Second - My setup is the OCRC test setup or whatever you call it but 2.5 or 2 weight lower in oil because we have ice and snow here.
Third - was the first B5 at the track and EVERYONE was watching. Oh well! Been in big A_mains before!
Fourth - the car drives a lot like the B4. It might jump a little different. Maybe worse, maybe better - depends on the driver but I think it lands MUCH better and soaks up the bigger "hits" on a straight at speed better. So if you have a big jump to "full throttle", that's where it feels better than the B4 to me.
Fifth - still hate that I have to have my steering at right 64 to have it straight. Full on OCD!
The 4.2FT body fits if you hack it up then heat the rear mount area till it's flexible, take a nickel or quarter then push it up to fit nicely
The stock steel links do bend if you run into plywood. They bend back nicely and hold their new shape ok Hope to have my Lunsford asap.
Your front wheel MIGHT fall off if you don't take the front axle screws off and re-loctite them again. I have no idea how I would know that Except that my front left wheel fell off during practice! Do if you didn't loctite it, do it 2X and if you did, do another "coat" of blue loctite!
Anyway, the car drives a lot like the 4.2 IMO but is much more refined in the electronics and also has better composure landing a jump and getting on the throttle.
First, I threw a 44.2 rod shock end on my left front to actually drive the car today because it cracked badly when popping the ball into it. Seemed to thread right on.
Second - My setup is the OCRC test setup or whatever you call it but 2.5 or 2 weight lower in oil because we have ice and snow here.
Third - was the first B5 at the track and EVERYONE was watching. Oh well! Been in big A_mains before!
Fourth - the car drives a lot like the B4. It might jump a little different. Maybe worse, maybe better - depends on the driver but I think it lands MUCH better and soaks up the bigger "hits" on a straight at speed better. So if you have a big jump to "full throttle", that's where it feels better than the B4 to me.
Fifth - still hate that I have to have my steering at right 64 to have it straight. Full on OCD!
The 4.2FT body fits if you hack it up then heat the rear mount area till it's flexible, take a nickel or quarter then push it up to fit nicely
The stock steel links do bend if you run into plywood. They bend back nicely and hold their new shape ok Hope to have my Lunsford asap.
Your front wheel MIGHT fall off if you don't take the front axle screws off and re-loctite them again. I have no idea how I would know that Except that my front left wheel fell off during practice! Do if you didn't loctite it, do it 2X and if you did, do another "coat" of blue loctite!
Anyway, the car drives a lot like the 4.2 IMO but is much more refined in the electronics and also has better composure landing a jump and getting on the throttle.