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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 10-13-2014, 01:14 PM
  #14911  
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Thinking about the b5m. Anything I need to order to get it race ready? Extra parts or upgrades?
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:23 PM
  #14912  
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Originally Posted by RCworks216
Thinking about the b5m. Anything I need to order to get it race ready? Extra parts or upgrades?
Solid right out of the box. The only thing I can think of that would be a must have for me, would be the schelle battery strap. The wide front opening makes it easy to run your ESC just in front of your rear horizontally placed battery (if you are going to run it that way). The stock one works, but requires a lot of dremel work and doesn't look particularly nice all chewed up.

Also... the stock slipper is less than ideal... so you may eventually look at changing your slipper depending on class/power level.
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:28 PM
  #14913  
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Originally Posted by RCworks216
Thinking about the b5m. Anything I need to order to get it race ready? Extra parts or upgrades?
I'd do Titanium Turnbuckles.
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:28 PM
  #14914  
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Originally Posted by dstidham
I plan to race stock on a green carpet track (MMR), but most of my practice time will be on dirt (FTR 510).

...are there any issues with going back and forth between the two different surfaces.
This will require two completely different setups, and the car will drive night and day differently on those two different tracks. Practicing on one will not help much for being competitive on the other.
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
It messes me up. Trigger pull and timing are off. Plus for my track, the setups are different. We stiffen up the car for mod, because there is so much traction, that at high speeds you want less weight transfer opposed to running a softer car. But mostly, mod and stock timing is different. I have given my stock car to mod guys before and they always struggle with trigger pull and timing. And they are too used to instant power. I was running 4wd buggy and stock buggy and it just messed me up too much when the classes were back to bad. I ran mod buggy and 4wd buggy this week and it was a much better transition.
Somehow I knew this would be your response.
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:38 PM
  #14916  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
Somehow I knew this would be your response.
lol, In some ways I think it would help and also hurt in other ways. I still kinda believe in practice like you race. Everyone is different. It might help some people.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:49 PM
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Default Lightweight chart

I know that I have seen it somewhere before. A chart that has both stock and lightweight parts with the weight savings. If some could help that would be great thanks
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:07 PM
  #14918  
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Originally Posted by RCworks216
Thinking about the b5m. Anything I need to order to get it race ready? Extra parts or upgrades?
I would also recommend the aluminum rear camber block (Schelle or AE), the plastic is known to break easily! Plus Schelle ceramic oiled gearbox bearings, the stock bearings are crap. +1 on the slipper, it is very bad!
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:26 PM
  #14919  
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Items to pick up while building the car that will make your experience much more enjoyable.
-Schelle or Avid Slipper
-Lunsford, JConcepts, or FT Turnbuckles
-Complete bearing set because the kit ones are not so great
-Aluminum rear camber block
-also pick yourself up a B5R set of front arms and tower to give a whirl for different steering characteristics.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:31 PM
  #14920  
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36
Items to pick up while building the car that will make your experience much more enjoyable.
-Schelle or Avid Slipper
-Lunsford, JConcepts, or FT Turnbuckles
-Complete bearing set because the kit ones are not so great
-Aluminum rear camber block
-also pick yourself up a B5R set of front arms and tower to give a whirl for different steering characteristics.
+1 I agree 100%. That is exactly what I did to my car. Plus the alum topshaft. I think it made the tranny spin more free. The AVID b5m bearing kit went into mine. All my bearing are still smooth after 6+ months of racing.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:35 PM
  #14921  
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Has anyone on here tried that latest electronics setup pic?

What does it do? Must be decent if so many people with the 2.0 do it.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:48 PM
  #14922  
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Two weeks ago I got a 10/7:19 this past weekend I got a 11/7:23.

Whats weird is I felt like I was slower all day. Hero lap was also half a second slower...
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:57 AM
  #14923  
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I have to laugh really.

I'm fairly new to rc and what really cracks me up is that there is always so much excitement / hype about a new buggy being released and companies professing about how great it is but the first thing people do upon delivery is replace 80% of the parts because the stock options are rubbish.

At what point does a b5m cease becoming a b5m?
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:47 AM
  #14924  
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Here are a couple pictures of the layout I posted yesterday... I know I only have a couple posts on this site, so I dont expect people to trust me like they do with others on here, but I thought I would share what is working for me.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-2014-10-13-21.08.59.jpg   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread-2014-10-13-21.10.09.jpg  
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:53 AM
  #14925  
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The B5M works well out of the box. People go overboard with mods because someone told them they are nessesary (stock racers). Some folks just like to accessorize and some are always looking for more and like to tinker. If you can run perfect lines without crashing for 6 minutes, then you don't need any options. Some parts like the flat arms/tower are just a tuning option to smooth out the steering mid-corner; I know lots of folks the still run the full arms. Don't go overboard with options. Work on your racing line and consistency.
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