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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 10-07-2014, 05:08 AM
  #14806  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
I have a few cars so I think any condition where a MM wouldn't work, I just wouldn't drive the class at this point.
I'm kinda with you on that one. If MM doesn't work, drive 8th scale LOL
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:10 AM
  #14807  
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Default B5R arms and tower on B5M

I have used the search function to research this tuning tip of running the B5R front tower, as well as front and rear arms for "better traction" and i see it referanced all over, but cannot find the explanation of why it provides better traction. Does anyone know, and if so, do you order the "hard" arms and shock tower? Thanks
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:20 AM
  #14808  
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An ae driver told me the steering mid corner feels more consistent other than that I'm unsure hard or plastic arms
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:27 AM
  #14809  
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Originally Posted by heinen81
I have used the search function to research this tuning tip of running the B5R front tower, as well as front and rear arms for "better traction" and i see it referanced all over, but cannot find the explanation of why it provides better traction. Does anyone know, and if so, do you order the "hard" arms and shock tower? Thanks
it has been explained a lot. The rear arms are for traction as they move the rear wheels forward ~2mm. The flat arms on the front make the car more consistent to drive.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:38 AM
  #14810  
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Yeah, that's exactly the responses I have found as well, just never an actual explanation as to "why" the front would be more consistent (I would be interested in hearing the physics behind that theory) as well as moving the rear tires forward would help minimally (given that there are way more effective ways to balance for traction) and doesn't make sense due to the fact a slightly longer wheelbase helps the stability on the straights. If I could find drivers who could attest that it no doubt improved the drive-ability of the car, I would be willing to give it a shot, however it looks to me like some Factory drivers bolted the parts on, and instantly Associated sold thousands of sets of arms and front towers that they normally would not have sold. They intelligently found another market for those items.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:51 AM
  #14811  
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Originally Posted by heinen81
I have used the search function to research this tuning tip of running the B5R front tower, as well as front and rear arms for "better traction" and i see it referanced all over, but cannot find the explanation of why it provides better traction. Does anyone know, and if so, do you order the "hard" arms and shock tower? Thanks
This is what a local Pro level driver said when I asked the same question.

"Having the mounting point of the shock below the linear plain of the arm gives the arm more leverage over the shock which equates to more grip. This makes the car twitchy and less stable which is why guys swap to flat arm."

I figured that I would run the car as is with the gull wing arms until I'm proficient enough to know what the difference feels like when I try the flat arms. I feel like the car is great as-is really so when I feel like the car is holding me back I might try some flat arms.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:55 AM
  #14812  
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Originally Posted by heinen81
Yeah, that's exactly the responses I have found as well, just never an actual explanation as to "why" the front would be more consistent (I would be interested in hearing the physics behind that theory) as well as moving the rear tires forward would help minimally (given that there are way more effective ways to balance for traction) and doesn't make sense due to the fact a slightly longer wheelbase helps the stability on the straights. If I could find drivers who could attest that it no doubt improved the drive-ability of the car, I would be willing to give it a shot, however it looks to me like some Factory drivers bolted the parts on, and instantly Associated sold thousands of sets of arms and front towers that they normally would not have sold. They intelligently found another market for those items.
The geometry of the M front tower and gullwing arms make the front end softer and a bit more aggressive than running the flat arms and R tower. In higher grip situations the flat arms and R tower are easier to drive and don't feel as aggressive. It's all in setup and tuning and driving preference. I've seen fast drivers get both to work for them in any condition.

The rear. That's plain and simple. Moving the rear arms forward will give more grip on throttle period. Just like moving the rear hubs forward with the included washers. This is just a a more pronounced effect. A longer wheelbase will be more stable yes BUT a shorter wheelbase provides more grip which to a lot of people makes it feel more comfortable.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:04 AM
  #14813  
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Originally Posted by heinen81
Yeah, that's exactly the responses I have found as well, just never an actual explanation as to "why" the front would be more consistent (I would be interested in hearing the physics behind that theory) as well as moving the rear tires forward would help minimally (given that there are way more effective ways to balance for traction) and doesn't make sense due to the fact a slightly longer wheelbase helps the stability on the straights. If I could find drivers who could attest that it no doubt improved the drive-ability of the car, I would be willing to give it a shot, however it looks to me like some Factory drivers bolted the parts on, and instantly Associated sold thousands of sets of arms and front towers that they normally would not have sold. They intelligently found another market for those items.
It is a tuning option. I see guys running the gulwings and loving them. I didnt. I like a more forgiving and easy car to drive. I feel like the RM parts did that for the car.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:12 AM
  #14814  
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So I just completed my build and installed the RM front arms with the MM front tower and mounted the shocks to the inner most hole which looks to be the same as the center hole of the RM. I have RM rear arms coming to test as well.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:13 AM
  #14815  
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The Factory AE guys at Tacoma (and myself) are now running the Carbon/Hard straight front arms, with the stock gullwing tower, and reducing the stroke of the front shocks to 18mm with an additional 2mm internal limiter.

We run on a VERY high bite indoor clay track and this setup made a pretty dramatic difference in how smooth and predictable the buggy steers in the high speed sections of the track. We ran the gold cup this weekend, and in the high speed sections of the track, as the traction came up, the stock setup cars were a little edgy and unpredictable. Moving to this setup in the middle of the 3 day race made a very noticeable difference in how the car drove for me. It feels like it may have removed steering a little bit from the high speed sections of the track, and added it to the lower speed sections of the track... it's a bit hard to tell exactly what is happening, but the car was certainly easier and more predictable, which allowed me to push the car a little harder.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:15 AM
  #14816  
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I know this isn't necessary the correct place for this ,but will the B5 shock caps work on my t4.2. One of the bleeder screws is stuck in the aluminum cap and only way to get it out is to drill it which is nearly impossible.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:21 AM
  #14817  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
The Factory AE guys at Tacoma (and myself) are now running the Carbon/Hard straight front arms, with the stock gullwing tower, and reducing the stroke of the front shocks to 18mm with an additional 2mm internal limiter.

We run on a VERY high bite indoor clay track and this setup made a pretty dramatic difference in how smooth and predictable the buggy steers in the high speed sections of the track. We ran the gold cup this weekend, and in the high speed sections of the track, as the traction came up, the stock setup cars were a little edgy and unpredictable. Moving to this setup in the middle of the 3 day race made a very noticeable difference in how the car drove for me. It feels like it may have removed steering a little bit from the high speed sections of the track, and added it to the lower speed sections of the track... it's a bit hard to tell exactly what is happening, but the car was certainly easier and more predictable, which allowed me to push the car a little harder.
This is great information for me. What hole did they mount to on the tower? The inside, middle or outside.

Looks like I need to add some limiters to my shocks. It would be great to get a quick complete front shock set-up if you have it.

Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2014, 01:39 PM
  #14818  
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Tried the Inline set up this weekend at Tacoma for the gold cup. Saw lots of people doing it so I had to. Car was much much better. A lot more consistent. Rotated really good and was really stable! We will see how it does at my local carpet track.
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:57 PM
  #14819  
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What are the shock limiters doing to the way the buggy handles?
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:18 PM
  #14820  
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Originally Posted by mackelby
What are the shock limiters doing to the way the buggy handles?
When used inside the shock body it reduces roll obviously when cornering but when accelerating it adds rear traction when done correctly. Essentially changing the droop of the shock.
Less droop in the front will usually give more on power steering, more droop willincrease off power steering.
Less droop in the rear will increase stability in high speed turns and increasing it will add more off power steering and also reduce a little high speed stability.
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