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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:55 PM   #14641
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if you dont want to tear it apart after building, build with xrings. You can get by with the kit pistons. And you already have some spring kits. just watch the video on the ball cups. and build it with pucks if you plant to go 17.5, or leave it if you plan to run mod with me
oh i will start in 17.5 i might be afraid of mod just yet
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:13 PM   #14642
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What are these pucks everyone is putting on and xrings? I have seen this said a few times for this car.

I am still in the process of getting my car setup proper and finally got the electrics I wanted for it so now its time to make sure all is well and done right before heading out sunday
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:02 PM   #14643
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If you don't know pucks, you don't need pucks!

I wouldn't consider pucks unless you have a consistency of 0.20 -0.30

The advantage....if any....is lost if you just crash/flip once!

Just run your b5m and practice, practice, practice.....

BTW pucks are an aftermarket drive line system. Xrings are shock o rings that are shaped like an X.

I believe the best stock racers don't even use pucks!
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:15 PM   #14644
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Any specific reason you went with the TiN shafts?
Half the cost and better wear.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:22 PM   #14645
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http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91055/

AE Low Friction O-Rings

MIP Pucks

http://miponline.com/store/mip14230.html

http://miponline.com/store/mip14190.html
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:24 PM   #14646
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....I run one car w/pucks and the other w/o. I guess that you don't really need them. With a 4100 shorty my non pucks car is 1501 grams. So for races where weight matters I'd have to add weight to use the pucks anyway.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:34 PM   #14647
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Thanks for the clarity on that guys. I am just new to all this new stuff. Been out for a while so I am re-learning it all. I was pretty consistent with my b4.1 and then took a break from all of this and now just in that short time everything is a bit different lol. I am definitely going to run the car stock but I think I am going to cut between the battery posts and servo and run the esc and rx inline and try the battery stock. Then try all in line later.

I will be running a tekin rsx now instead of the lip flow. I also have a D4 17.5 maxzilla 1s coming shortly. What would be a good gearing to start with on that motor? I was thinking 30/69
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:47 PM   #14648
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I havn't ran elrctric since the B3. But I have started to follow recently.

For mod would you buy the regular or lite buggy?
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:32 PM   #14649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy699 View Post
Thanks for the clarity on that guys. I am just new to all this new stuff. Been out for a while so I am re-learning it all. I was pretty consistent with my b4.1 and then took a break from all of this and now just in that short time everything is a bit different lol. I am definitely going to run the car stock but I think I am going to cut between the battery posts and servo and run the esc and rx inline and try the battery stock. Then try all in line later.

I will be running a tekin rsx now instead of the lip flow. I also have a D4 17.5 maxzilla 1s coming shortly. What would be a good gearing to start with on that motor? I was thinking 30/69
Depending on your track/temp/grip, anything from 30 to 32 with a 69 spur is what I run with a 1500g 17.5.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:05 AM   #14650
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Hey guys.

I'm going to be picking up a B5m Factory Lite. I am still considering my options for electronics and everything but I'm wondering if you guys can point me in the right direction.

I heard that there is some issues with some servos not fitting in the b5m correctly. I mainly run Hitec servos. I know that you need more speed than torque with 2wd buggies but I'm unsure of what the recommended specs are for them. From what I've seen somewhere around 0.11 speed and 150oz of torque?

I also would like to know some of the combos everyone runs in theirs. It's tough finding the answers in such a large thread. I will be running it on a fairly loose outdoor track and will probably be considered a mod 2wd since we aren't into all the regulations here. I'm thinking a 10.5T motor would be best but would like some input on how the buggy behaves with different motors. I know lots of people praise Tekin systems but I recently tried hobbywing and like their system in my SC truck.

Anything else to consider?
Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:14 AM   #14651
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Is there a difference with those red X-rings (Part #: 91055) and these white/clear ones (Part #: 91493)?
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:40 AM   #14652
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This is just my opinion but 0.11 is too slow for racing. My Mendoza line has always been 0.1 or faster and I prefer to get further under that if I can.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:57 AM   #14653
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The pucks take some traction out of the rear and make it corner better IMO. When I started running mod and took the pucks out, my car car complete crap. No rotation. And it felt like there was more bone bind. Also, the lower rotating mass, seemed to drop motor temps some also.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:24 AM   #14654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Reilly View Post
I havn't ran elrctric since the B3. But I have started to follow recently.

For mod would you buy the regular or lite buggy?
Lite for sure, it has some good upgrades and lighter is better almost always stock or mod. Easier to add weight than take it out.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:53 PM   #14655
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I'll have to disagree. I have 2 cars that are almost identical other than pucks in one and the fox shocks and no pucks in the other and they feel almost exactly the same. I run the same motor, esc, and servo in both....the set ups are the same, both have SLRC chassis etc etc. The only big difference that I can feel is that the pucks car spools up a hair faster and the throttle is hair lighter. We run outdoors on high grip bluegroove. If there's a discernible difference in cornering maybe its more pronounced on clay.
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