R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Like Tree9Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-20-2015, 05:56 AM   #14596
Tech Elite
 
Mason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 4,870
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy699 View Post
How are most of you guys doing your electronics layout? My hobby shop said I sould cut the bars between the battery strap posts and mount my esc there with the rx in front of it to keep everything "in line". I have seen a few cut that section and I am assuming more for battery placement.
I run a shorty in normal config with the stock battery mount yet cut out the support between the posts and put the speedo there with receiver in front of it. I would like to try full in-line but at the time our track as falling apart and the perceived need for a little more weight transfer kept me from going all out. This will still allow you to move the battery front to rear with the 3 narrow stock spacers.
__________________
Mason McCombs
NewRed Hobbies & Indoor Facility
Off-Road, Dirt Oval, Crawlers & Pullers
Mason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 07:37 AM   #14597
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rchogfan View Post
Hello all, I ran a 22 2.0 last winter and am really considering going to the factory lite this winter. Can anyone give some honest pros and cons between the two and if I really should consider the switch being that I've always been content with the Losi. It's on medium/low traction indoor dirt. Thank you. And if buying the b5m, what is needed to make it optimal? Thank you.

I picked up the lite version to run mod. Originally I was concerned not with the weight but with the 3 gear transmission, as some people said the 4 gear has more traction. I was pleasantly surprised with the level of grip on the car already. I played around with square and shorty pack positions to see whats better. I also tried adding brass hangers on the rear and front bulkheads to see what yielded better results. To be honest, the car is great out of the box, and if you are on low grip, you can try saddles or a square with a brass C rear mount. The B5M has more rear grip out of the box than either the losi or durango in mid motor form.

A lot of guys who got the mid motor to work in a losi have added a bunch of side brass and rear weights to get it to work. The same goes with the 210. You need to play around with a lot of weights in some of the other cars to tune it. The B5M inherently pushes which makes the car easy to drive in lower bite conditions. Mind you, you can always play with the trailing axles, caster and roll centers to add more steering to the car.
__________________
* Team Great Hobbies * Team Powers * Exotek *
http://www.sidsraceway.com
Dino_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 07:53 AM   #14598
Super Moderator
 
racer1812's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 14,777
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jade67 View Post
The ball stud on my steering rack keeps backing out, would you recommend going with the aluminum or the plastic?

Quote:
Originally Posted by will5879 View Post
Make sure the steering link is not binding, verify it swivels freely on the ball studs. Give them a squeeze if not. Same as you would for the turnbuckles. Replace the plastic steering bellcrank if the hole is wallowed out. Use Loctite on the ballstud threads if using the aluminum bellcrank.
This is the only reason the ball stud should/could back out. I personally don't see a reason for 99.9% of people to run/buy the aluminum bell cranks.
__________________
Stand for the flag, kneel for the fallen.

Thank you to all of our service men and women!

racer1812 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:19 AM   #14599
Super Moderator
 
racer1812's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 14,777
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
I don't know why, but I just feel like the AE is a lot easier to tune and tell what the change will do.

Do the regular pistons that came in the kit work with the Fox shocks?
They will but I would invest in machined pistons before shock bodies. IMO, get both machined pistons and the "Fox" shock bodies.
__________________
Stand for the flag, kneel for the fallen.

Thank you to all of our service men and women!

racer1812 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:22 AM   #14600
Super Moderator
 
racer1812's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 14,777
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
I picked up the lite version to run mod. Originally I was concerned not with the weight but with the 3 gear transmission, as some people said the 4 gear has more traction. I was pleasantly surprised with the level of grip on the car already. I played around with square and shorty pack positions to see whats better. I also tried adding brass hangers on the rear and front bulkheads to see what yielded better results. To be honest, the car is great out of the box, and if you are on low grip, you can try saddles or a square with a brass C rear mount. The B5M has more rear grip out of the box than either the losi or durango in mid motor form.

A lot of guys who got the mid motor to work in a losi have added a bunch of side brass and rear weights to get it to work. The same goes with the 210. You need to play around with a lot of weights in some of the other cars to tune it. The B5M inherently pushes which makes the car easy to drive in lower bite conditions. Mind you, you can always play with the trailing axles, caster and roll centers to add more steering to the car.
TLR should have actually tested the MM version of the car before production if you ask me....just sayin'..
__________________
Stand for the flag, kneel for the fallen.

Thank you to all of our service men and women!

racer1812 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:24 AM   #14601
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,706
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
TLR should have actually tested the MM version of the car before production if you ask me....just sayin'..
I believe they did, quite extensively. It was however in the hands of many UK team drivers on surfaces such as astro and carpet. When the 22 was released the only ones using a mid motor car were xfactory. Rear motor still reined supreme...this was also prior to the "sugar" tracks at a national level.
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:30 AM   #14602
Super Moderator
 
racer1812's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 14,777
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
I believe they did, quite extensively. It was however in the hands of many UK team drivers on surfaces such as astro and carpet. When the 22 was released the only ones using a mid motor car were xfactory. Rear motor still reined supreme...this was also prior to the "sugar" tracks at a national level.
I'm sure you're right.

And let's not forget X-Factory "made mid motor work".........
__________________
Stand for the flag, kneel for the fallen.

Thank you to all of our service men and women!

racer1812 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:36 AM   #14603
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,706
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
And let's not forget X-Factory "made mid motor work".........
...
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-xfactory-you-da.jpg  
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:40 AM   #14604
Tech Regular
 
Thomas PA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: York
Posts: 304
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
...
Make your fun. My X6^3 handles way better than my B5M
Thomas PA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 08:42 AM   #14605
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,706
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas PA View Post
Make your fun. My X6^3 handles way better than my B5M
Just a little light humor. They work great for some. To each their own.
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain

Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 07-20-2015 at 09:00 AM.
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 09:35 AM   #14606
Tech Elite
 
carcrazy699's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,458
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

I went ahead and purchased a LRP Flow team works esc today. Now the big debate over which motor to run. I want to stay in the stock class since I feel I am more consistent and we have a better turn out here for it. I think we also run a 13.5 class but not to sure. Figured I would start with 17.5 first and work my way up.

So what 17.5 motor is a nice smooth and quick motor? I have ran a reedy mach 1 before but I am seeing that the D4 maxzilla is a quick and good one along with schuur.
__________________
Losi Ten-T
Losi M8T
Lost M8DB
carcrazy699 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 09:44 AM   #14607
Tech Master
 
3srcracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,761
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy699 View Post
I went ahead and purchased a LRP Flow team works esc today. Now the big debate over which motor to run. I want to stay in the stock class since I feel I am more consistent and we have a better turn out here for it. I think we also run a 13.5 class but not to sure. Figured I would start with 17.5 first and work my way up.

So what 17.5 motor is a nice smooth and quick motor? I have ran a reedy mach 1 before but I am seeing that the D4 maxzilla is a quick and good one along with schuur.
Run the Mach 1, it will be just fine. I have one in mine and I'm probably one of the faster stock cars on the track. However I did buy a D4 to try out and see, I will know next Tuesday.
3srcracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 09:46 AM   #14608
Tech Elite
 
carcrazy699's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,458
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

I don't have the mach 1 anymore. I had it when I had my b4.1. When I got out of racing it went with the car lol.
__________________
Losi Ten-T
Losi M8T
Lost M8DB
carcrazy699 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 09:49 AM   #14609
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,706
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy699 View Post
I don't have the mach 1 anymore. I had it when I had my b4.1. When I got out of racing it went with the car lol.
The Mach 2 is a very popular motor in a buggy....the schuur speed is also popular in socal. Either way you cant go wrong.
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 11:29 AM   #14610
Tech Initiate
 
mcsuperfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Varese, Italy
Posts: 49
Default Servo horn for XP Ds1313

Hi guys,

I want to use an XP 1313 servo but I can't figure out which of the servo horns included with the kit can fit my servo.

Since the car has a XP Digital servo installed in official pictures, I thught one of the included horns should fit perfectly, insted they're all tight fit.

Am I missing something?

Thanks for help

Fabio
mcsuperfreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:25 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net