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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:17 PM   #14431
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I ran a gear diff on hard packed clay, 3000wt oil, and then I put my ball diff back in, it was clear the ball diff was better, and actually more forgiving when powering out of corners and thru sweepers, the gear diff just got squirrly. Sure, when lined up straight, the gear diff was great, same over jumps with a short run up to them or jumps after 180 degree corners. But the ball diff just felt better everywhere. Gear diffs are like said above, best for carpet, maybe Astro or super high sugar traction. But in 2wd, they are so easy to maintain, why change?
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Last edited by HeavyD99; 07-10-2015 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:36 PM   #14432
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Yea I really tried with the gear diff as I wanted to run it for less maintenance and easier to repeat on rebuild, but the ball diff was just better for 2wd.
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Old 07-10-2015, 11:58 PM   #14433
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I had the issue also. It if because not all shafts are made the same. I had issues with the AE v2 topshaft. I took a small file and removed a little material from the drive plates until it slipped on. I talked to avid about this and he designed the plates around the original AE v1 topshafts....but not around every permutation on the market. Again, it look me about 5 minutes and the material I removed was minimal.
ok, so i only had issues with one of the drive plates, so you can't blame the top shaft IMO. i just took some material out of that one drive plate and all is fine now.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:29 AM   #14434
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/avid-ae...ack-shock-kit/



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Avid’s new black shock kit for the Team Associated 5-series off-road vehicles includes everything needed to convert four shock absorber to all-black aluminium parts. The kit includes four threaded shock collars that feature offset laser etched Avid logos for ease of matching spring tension left and right in 1/4 turn increments as well as four shock bottom caps that are knurled with a silver highlight edging. The collars have a standard internal O-ring design for holding the collar in position and the set fits all shocks that use the VCS3 design which currently includes the B5, B5M, T5M, and SC5M.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:30 AM   #14435
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/mip-ae-...achined-t-nut/



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Made for 5th and 4th generation Team Associated 1/10th vehicles as well as AE and TLR MIP ball differentials is a machined T-nut from MIP. The 7075-T6 machined aluminium T-nut is completely rebuildable by simply replacing the small nylon inserts. These high quality nylon inserts increase the screws break away force by 20 percent, meaning that the diff screw will stay in its desired position much longer and increase the consistency of the differential over time. The aluminium design also increases sheer strength of the “T” by 40 percent. Included in the set are the aluminium T-nut and two nylon inserts.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:33 AM   #14436
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Default And I post this only because I think it's kinda cool...

http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/team-or...it/#more-99124



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Team Orion have introduced their all-new dDrive 2-in-1 brushless power unit for 1/10th scale on-road and off-road vehicles. The revolutionary system combines a highly efficient and very powerful 4-pole brushless motor and a brushless controller in one simple to use package. Coming from the mind of Oscar Jansen the unit is used in place for the usual motor and is very easy to setup while the integrated system uses only a minimal amount of wires for improved reliability and less hassle especially for beginners. The integrated controller offers three different drive modes, user-adjustable performance settings, overheat protection and low-voltage cut-off while the 4-pole motor is housed in an aluminium heatsink can. The 58mm long unit is splash-proof, it comes pre-wired with a T-type connector and it is available as 2700kv and 3000kv variant.

Features
– 2-in-1 Motor/ESC unit for 1/10 scale cars
– Vortex sensorless brushless technology
– Simple compact design for easy installation
– Improved reliability
– Designed for LiPo and NiMH batteries
– High performance 4-pole motor
– Aluminium case with high efficiency cooling
– Forward/brake, forward/brake/reverse and forward/reverse (crawler) function modes
– User adjustable performance settings
– Overheat protection system
– Battery low voltage cut-off system
– Status control by LED and audio tones
– Plug&Play: no soldering required, easy setup
– Fitted with Deans high current connectors
– Splash proof
– Developed by Oscar Jansen






[YOUTUBE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=X-35TIH_HZ8[/YOUTUBE]

Last edited by RCBuddha; 07-11-2015 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:12 AM   #14437
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/team-or...it/#more-99124











[YOUTUBE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=X-35TIH_HZ8[/YOUTUBE]
How long until this is the norm for lightweight 17.5 racing? Hahaha
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Old 07-11-2015, 12:33 PM   #14438
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Been a while since assembling ball end drive cups & turn buckles. Can anyone share their method of avoiding damaging the ball end drive cups when screwing them onto the turnbuckle.

I use pliers & a soft cloth but still mare/distort the ball cup. I'm also using the punisher turnbuckle tool & chapstick on the turnbuckle threads.

I've tried searching youtube for a vid showing the installation w/ no luck. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:53 PM   #14439
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What model Ogio bag do people use and how well do they hold up
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:55 PM   #14440
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What model Ogio bag do people use and how well do they hold up
ogio 9800, mine has been holding up well.
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:04 PM   #14441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ Racing View Post
Been a while since assembling ball end drive cups & turn buckles. Can anyone share their method of avoiding damaging the ball end drive cups when screwing them onto the turnbuckle.

I use pliers & a soft cloth but still mare/distort the ball cup. I'm also using the punisher turnbuckle tool & chapstick on the turnbuckle threads.

I've tried searching youtube for a vid showing the installation w/ no luck. Thanks
I thread them on by hand, once they get too tight for hands I put one of my drivers or something else long and skinny in the hole and twist it on
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:16 PM   #14442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ Racing View Post
Been a while since assembling ball end drive cups & turn buckles. Can anyone share their method of avoiding damaging the ball end drive cups when screwing them onto the turnbuckle.

I use pliers & a soft cloth but still mare/distort the ball cup. I'm also using the punisher turnbuckle tool & chapstick on the turnbuckle threads.

I've tried searching youtube for a vid showing the installation w/ no luck. Thanks
I drill them out with a slightly oversized bit first. This makes it so that you can almost install by hand. Also I put the end in a drill chuck snugged and use this to thread on the rod. No damage.
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Old 07-12-2015, 01:38 AM   #14443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
What model Ogio bag do people use and how well do they hold up
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
ogio 9800, mine has been holding up well.
I just got a crazy deal on an 9800, $18.74!! Not bad for a $250 bag!

Heres the link if youre interested: https://www.2wheelpartssupply.com/og...-gear-bag.html

It's the "Stealth" color option.

Never ordered from this website but for that price I couldn't pass it up, Ill check back in when it arrives.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:11 AM   #14444
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I just got a crazy deal on an 9800, $18.74!! Not bad for a $250 bag!

Heres the link if youre interested: https://www.2wheelpartssupply.com/og...-gear-bag.html

It's the "Stealth" color option.

Never ordered from this website but for that price I couldn't pass it up, Ill check back in when it arrives.
Thanks for the info and link. That's a f'n steal.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:29 AM   #14445
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Have a bunch of the Traxxas blue xrings... Anybody try these and how do they work vs. the kit red? Clear xrings?
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